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Fellas.

Great forum, first post!

I am in the planning stages of building the Polar Lights 1/350 refit Enterprise.

I have modeling experience, but here, you guys have the knowledge. Here are a few ideas I have, advice and opinions welcome.

I was thinking about no aztecing at all, just clean white. My reasoning is, a ship that big in real life wouldn't really show those details in a model of 1/350 scale. For example, I saw a real carrier at Norfolk several years ago. I was about 1/2 mile away. Standing there, it looked all gray, and if I held my hands up, left hand at the bow, right hand at the stern, my hands were about 3 feet apart. Near the dock, up close, I could see the hull was a miriad of grays, lines, rivets, etc. Opinions on this?

But, I like the look the aztecing gives. I was thinking of using the kit-supplied aztec decals, but wonder about future silvering.

Assuming a glossy surface, is this an issue?

Has anyone used Krylon's Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating? I understand it's non-yellowing.

Will clears over decals prevent silvering in the future? How well do the decals seal under clears?

I will use some LED lighting, but not to the level some of you here do. (Fantastic work, BTW).

My goal is to have a relaxing, enjoyable build of a beautiful ship, pleasing to my eye.

What say you all?

Thanks in advance!

:wave:
 

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silvering = decals applied to a non-glossy surface. As shiny and smooth as you can get 'er a perfect decal will make.

If I might suggest not using LEDs as they create "hotspots" (bright spots that are readily apparent they're LEDs within). Instead, try your hand at CCFLs. Steady, uniform light throughout.


Welcome to the board! :wave:
 

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Um...this may have been mentioned somewhere else and I missed it, or not...what are CCFLs?
Cold Cathode Flourecent Lights. Like neon light sort of but smaller. They are often used in computers and give an even glow as opposed to individual spots like LED's do. Here are a couple of shots of the 12" I am using for my 1/350 build:

DSC_1671small.jpg

DSC_1672small.jpg
 

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Cold Cathode Flourecent Lights. Like neon light sort of but smaller. They are often used in computers and give an even glow as opposed to individual spots like LED's do. Here are a couple of shots of the 12" I am using for my 1/350 build:

View attachment 91007

View attachment 91008
The wiring and "pack" for them seems awfully bulky. Are the wires long enough to reach from the pack to the nacelle, and is the ship large enough to accommodate all of that, in addition to the interior sets, etc? Or am I just being dense? (Don't answer that! :tongue: )
 

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The only down side to CFL is that current draw. Lighting two nacelles will cost you at least an amp. Check our Raist's LED's With proper diffusing you can get very good results.
 

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Raist mentioned that he used four LEDs in the nacelles.
Were these positioned along the length of the nacelle or were there two at each end directing light down the body of the nacelle?
I sent Raist a PM asking this, but I guess I'm just impatient... :)
 

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I got some of those, (6" kit to light my 1/537 refit) and I have a question: How do I power them? It looks like they were designed to be powere by a computer, so what do I need to use to power them. I am new to electronics so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.
Thanks!
I used these in my last case mod, they are to be suplied with 12VDC, from a computer power sulply, however it can be powered by a 12 volt battery also. You can also use 8 X 1.5 volt batterys, 120VAC to 12VDC 3 to 6 AMPs converter (wall wart)
 

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Raist mentioned that he used four LEDs in the nacelles.
Were these positioned along the length of the nacelle or were there two at each end directing light down the body of the nacelle?
I sent Raist a PM asking this, but I guess I'm just impatient... :)

Bruce, I responded to your PM on the 20th :)

I did use 4 LEDS in my build. In this picture, you can view the hot spots just out of range of the clear grill insert, which will give you an idea of where I placed my LED's.

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/Raist3001/?action=view&current=P1010232.jpg

2 LEDs' on either side of the clear grill insert aimed at each other in order to flood the area with light. The clear grill was also frosted in order to disperse the light better.
 

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Bruce, I responded to your PM on the 20th :)

I did use 4 LEDS in my build. In this picture, you can view the hot spots just out of range of the clear grill insert, which will give you an idea of where I placed my LED's.

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/Raist3001/?action=view&current=P1010232.jpg

2 LEDs' on either side of the clear grill insert aimed at each other in order to flood the area with light. The clear grill was also frosted in order to disperse the light better.
Best leds I've seen yet. Congrats on a great look!
 

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Looks nice and even, Tony. :thumbsup:

Your plan was to see the light reflected off the inside of the nacelle, not to see the LEDs directly through the grill, right?
 

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Your plan was to see the light reflected off the inside of the nacelle, not to see the LEDs directly through the grill, right?
Correct. Other wise the clear grill would have shown hot spots.

You guys are too kind. Thank you for the kind words. Truth is, there are plenty of folks whose nacelle grills used the same technique and look great :)
 

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Fellas.

Great forum, first post!

I am in the planning stages of building the Polar Lights 1/350 refit Enterprise.

I have modeling experience, but here, you guys have the knowledge. Here are a few ideas I have, advice and opinions welcome.

I was thinking about no aztecing at all, just clean white. My reasoning is, a ship that big in real life wouldn't really show those details in a model of 1/350 scale. For example, I saw a real carrier at Norfolk several years ago. I was about 1/2 mile away. Standing there, it looked all gray, and if I held my hands up, left hand at the bow, right hand at the stern, my hands were about 3 feet apart. Near the dock, up close, I could see the hull was a miriad of grays, lines, rivets, etc. Opinions on this?

But, I like the look the aztecing gives. I was thinking of using the kit-supplied aztec decals, but wonder about future silvering.

Assuming a glossy surface, is this an issue?

Has anyone used Krylon's Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating? I understand it's non-yellowing.

Will clears over decals prevent silvering in the future? How well do the decals seal under clears?

I will use some LED lighting, but not to the level some of you here do. (Fantastic work, BTW).

My goal is to have a relaxing, enjoyable build of a beautiful ship, pleasing to my eye.

What say you all?

Thanks in advance!

:wave:
G'day mate :thumbsup: And yes you are right it is a great forum :) I know I personaly have learned and grown with my hobby since joining...:wave: and hopefully made some cyberspace friends too.

Good luck with your build.

I reckon I understand your thoughts on the aztecing but I myself couldn't see me doing it with out them. Just remeber it's your build so go for what you want and or are comfortable in doing. I can say that for myself this was a fantastic personal project in to many ways to comment. Now to prevent the silver you do need to do as Magesblood said "silvering = decals applied to a non-glossy surface. As shiny and smooth as you can get 'er a perfect decal will make." I pretty much use the micro scale gloss on all my builds under the decals. I've also used our version of future but I prefer the micro better and both shoot through an airbrush without thinning. I've also found the micro bushes on fairly well too. The trick for me is to not over apply the stuff. I then shoot over a coat of the clear after the decals have dried. To help the decals settle in I add some concentrated white glue to the water and then brush over some decal setand leave them dry for a day or so. I did this on my 1/350 build and my decals IMHO looks sweet.


I went with the leds rather than CCFL's mainly as all my lighting is run off a 9v pack. for the nacelles I used the same basic technique as Raist3001 with great results. Except I only used 2 leds on each nacelle and the only thing I really did as an extra was to brush several coats of clear flat at each end of the clear tubes where the leds were fitted and feather it out towards the middle and then apply the same effect on the back of the nacelle inserts.


Again good luck with the build and don't forget to post up how you going with it.

Cheers,

Alec.:wave:
 

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Hooray! Someone finally did NOT do their impulse deflection crystal blue!

Nice job Alec - I think that's the first I've seen of your finished product
 

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Thanks Gunstar1 :)

I scanned the dvd for hours just to confirm it's colour. I didn't realize that there aren't that many pics of the "E" from STTMP...:rolleyes: and my pc monitor, tv and projector all have slightly differant colour contrasts which I did the greys in the shades I did plus I wanted a more para militery feel about it. But I did find the treads that You and Raist3001 did to be a big help in so many other areas.

Cheers,

Alec.
 

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Hooray! Someone finally did NOT do their impulse deflection crystal blue!

Nice job Alec - I think that's the first I've seen of your finished product
Agreed, yellow/orange like TMP. Nice.

Per our discussion mine will be blueish white (well, white LED but I have some that have a blueish tint), as I am building "A".
 
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