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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all hope you are all fine!

Please, can somebody give me a clue about the following issue?

Im thinking about getting a pair of Parma economy controllers for HO racing.

First, impedance: Im considering 90 Ohm controllers since I will be running thunderjets and some cars without traction magnets, so I think the higher the impendance the slower the acceleration hence the car is less responsive and it is more controllable. Am I thinking rightly? I want controllers that do not provide so much quick acceleration as kids will be using it and kids like to push pedal to the metal all the time.... So are 90 ohm the right choice for my purpose?

Second, braking: I think all Parma economy come wired for braking and they come without any connector just bare wires. Am I rigth? However, I really dont care about braking. Can I still use a Parma controller that comes wired for braking but my tracks are not wired for braking (and I really don't care to fix them for braking)? If so, how should I connect them to my tracks? (I have Life Like race sets)

Oh, by the way, to avoid opening another thread, I also wanted to ask if you had ever had any HO car whose body is too loose that it very easily pops out from chassis. I have two Tyco 440 X2 whit this issue and I wonder if any of you know a solution to make body fits tighter into chassis so it does not pops out if a breeze blows? I have heard a guy submerged loose body into a bucket with hot water and pressing it firmly for a minute or so (water must be really hot so he used thick rubber gloves)

Thanks all, have a good week!!
 

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1. 90 ohm will be fine for what you're doing.

2. Parma's will work fine without brakes, just tie off the red brake wire. If your track is set up for alligator clips, just use those and connect the black and white leads to the black and white posts. It doesn't even matter if its black to black and white to white.

If you're using stock terminal track, best bet is to simply cut off the terminal connector from the Lifelike controllers and wire them onto the end of your Parmas. I had Parmas with AFX terminal connectors on the end for years.

3. Depends how bad the bodies are, but the hot water trick should do the job. Bring the water just to a point where its starting to show signs of boiling then leave it sit for a few mins. Don't dip your bodies in boiling water.

Trev
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. 90 ohm will be fine for what you're doing.

2. Parma's will work fine without brakes, just tie off the red brake wire. If your track is set up for alligator clips, just use those and connect the black and white leads to the black and white posts. It doesn't even matter if its black to black and white to white.

If you're using stock terminal track, best bet is to simply cut off the terminal connector from the Lifelike controllers and wire them onto the end of your Parmas. I had Parmas with AFX terminal connectors on the end for years.

3. Depends how bad the bodies are, but the hot water trick should do the job. Bring the water just to a point where its starting to show signs of boiling then leave it sit for a few mins. Don't dip your bodies in boiling water.

Trev
Hello Shadowracer

Thanks very much for your answers!!
 

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90 yes for the pancake cars
but magnet cars with/without tractions are different.
you still need a nice ohmage 4 them!
if tyco, I would start at 45 and go up or down some.

I think a the hobby shop in NJ can add a 3 way swicth to a 90 and let drop the omage down

i had a 60 that did 45 & 35 ohms
 

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Discussion Starter #7
and..

Thanks all of you..That chart about making it go down and down seems very useful so one avoids buying tons of controlls

By the way, what is the difference between a 90 Ohm controller for HO racing and a 90 Ohm controller for 1/24 racing?

What if I use a 90 Ohm controller designed for 1/24 in a HO racing set/cars??

I know 1/24 cars take more amperage but lower voltage as opposed to HO cars that usually take higher voltage but lower amperage.

Thanks!!
 
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