Painting Q&A #2
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Masking
First of all, thanks for offering your help!
My questions:
What do you use to mask inside the body (tape, liquid, etc)?
How do you mask the different designs inside these bodies? I've painted a couple bodies myself with simple two-tone designs, and I found it rather difficult to place symmetrical designs inside my body. I'd like to know how the really good painters manage to get such great designs masked inside these bodies.. (I used good ol' masking tape from 3M. Bled very little (for my first amateurish tries).)
Any masking tips would be great!
Thanks,
-jlt
First of all, thanks for offering your help!
My questions:
What do you use to mask inside the body (tape, liquid, etc)?
How do you mask the different designs inside these bodies? I've painted a couple bodies myself with simple two-tone designs, and I found it rather difficult to place symmetrical designs inside my body. I'd like to know how the really good painters manage to get such great designs masked inside these bodies.. (I used good ol' masking tape from 3M. Bled very little (for my first amateurish tries).)
Any masking tips would be great!
Thanks,
-jlt
Masking Tips
Jaket,
I've done hundreds of bodies, with liquid mask and masking tape. Either one works out fine, some guys really prefer the liquid mask, but for economy's sake for the 3-4 bodies a week I do, I prefer tape. 3m masking tape is great; one of the brands I use, along with cheap econo stuff I get at the dollar store, and pricier "artists tape" I get at the art supply store that I use for intricate details. For the designs, I mark the outside of the body with a sharpee pen, tape up the inside, then hold it up to the light and cut along the lines. Use a brand new Xacto blade, use light pressure, and take your time. Intricate designs require lots of careful planning, it's well worth the time. And you'll never have a bleed under problem with the masking tape, as long as you press down the edges, and use very light coats of paint, especially the first 2-3 coats. I'm sure you'll soon get a reply from JS, take him for his word, he's the best, and sets the standard that I'll always use as my goal.
Tim
Jaket,
I've done hundreds of bodies, with liquid mask and masking tape. Either one works out fine, some guys really prefer the liquid mask, but for economy's sake for the 3-4 bodies a week I do, I prefer tape. 3m masking tape is great; one of the brands I use, along with cheap econo stuff I get at the dollar store, and pricier "artists tape" I get at the art supply store that I use for intricate details. For the designs, I mark the outside of the body with a sharpee pen, tape up the inside, then hold it up to the light and cut along the lines. Use a brand new Xacto blade, use light pressure, and take your time. Intricate designs require lots of careful planning, it's well worth the time. And you'll never have a bleed under problem with the masking tape, as long as you press down the edges, and use very light coats of paint, especially the first 2-3 coats. I'm sure you'll soon get a reply from JS, take him for his word, he's the best, and sets the standard that I'll always use as my goal.
Tim
Removing Sharpee marks
JWoolz-I remove sharpee pen marks from the outside of bodies with lighter fluid (Ronson yellow bottle or Zippo) or denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) They come right off with either one of these, but USE CAUTION when working with these chemicals, they're both extremely combustible, and the vapors are nasty. I get all the overspray off with something called EZ Liftoff, a solvent which is available in most hobby shops, it also does a great job of removing sharpee marks. This is also very flammable stuff, take a look at the cautions on the label before using it.
JWoolz-I remove sharpee pen marks from the outside of bodies with lighter fluid (Ronson yellow bottle or Zippo) or denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) They come right off with either one of these, but USE CAUTION when working with these chemicals, they're both extremely combustible, and the vapors are nasty. I get all the overspray off with something called EZ Liftoff, a solvent which is available in most hobby shops, it also does a great job of removing sharpee marks. This is also very flammable stuff, take a look at the cautions on the label before using it.
G
Guest
·Thanks so much for the help. I'll try and post pics of my first try in a little bit!
Hey Tim! you spend way too much time painting!lol........
Jaket- Welcome aboard! What Tim said pretty much covers your question......... I also draw all of my work out on the body, but here's a great tip- Draw your design out on tracing paper first, it's semi transparent. Then you can have the same design on both sides of the body by simply lining it up inside the body where you want it, and then tracing it on the outside with a sharpie as Tim described. This is really helpful with flame designs and such that you want equal on both sides.
JWoolz- can't add anything to what Tim said..... except welcome aboard too!
I have been running ragged lately, and will continue to be scarce here. A special thanks ahead of time! to Tim and all the other regulars who field questions from everyone.
finally got to try the Alclad chrome paint too.... it's great!
Jaket- Welcome aboard! What Tim said pretty much covers your question......... I also draw all of my work out on the body, but here's a great tip- Draw your design out on tracing paper first, it's semi transparent. Then you can have the same design on both sides of the body by simply lining it up inside the body where you want it, and then tracing it on the outside with a sharpie as Tim described. This is really helpful with flame designs and such that you want equal on both sides.
JWoolz- can't add anything to what Tim said..... except welcome aboard too!
I have been running ragged lately, and will continue to be scarce here. A special thanks ahead of time! to Tim and all the other regulars who field questions from everyone.
finally got to try the Alclad chrome paint too.... it's great!
G
Guest
·Fish Eye repair
ever have a paint job compermised by a fish eye? here's how i fixed mine. with my airbrush in my right hand and a HEAT GUN in my left hand (cranked up on high) i heated up the lexan and immeadiately ghost coated the spot. i repeated this till it was filled. there was a little blemish but nowhere near what it looked like before i did this. other wise the paint will not stick or fill the crater.
ever have a paint job compermised by a fish eye? here's how i fixed mine. with my airbrush in my right hand and a HEAT GUN in my left hand (cranked up on high) i heated up the lexan and immeadiately ghost coated the spot. i repeated this till it was filled. there was a little blemish but nowhere near what it looked like before i did this. other wise the paint will not stick or fill the crater.
G
Guest
·ACK!?! I need help. I've been in the hobby for years but I just started airburshing with the new water based Faskolor paints and I haven't aribrushed anything in over 12 years!?! So I basically forgot everything. . .
I'm using a double action Paasch airbrush and D500 compressor.
How much are you watering these paints down? It seems like I can't get them to come through unless I use full power from the compressor. But I think that is causing the tip to dry out too fast because I literally only get to airbrush for about 6 seconds before I need to clean the tip and needle. It's so much of a hassle I'd rather be using a spray can again. But I know I'm doing it wrong so far and I just need some assistance to get this to work.
I remember reading quite a while ago that you don't have to water these paints down, but I just can't see these working unless I do. But how much watering down is needed, and how long can you guys go before the paint stops spraying nicely?
I know this question has most likely been answered a long time ago, but it would take hours to sort through all the messages.
Any help would be great, thanks!
Ben
I'm using a double action Paasch airbrush and D500 compressor.
How much are you watering these paints down? It seems like I can't get them to come through unless I use full power from the compressor. But I think that is causing the tip to dry out too fast because I literally only get to airbrush for about 6 seconds before I need to clean the tip and needle. It's so much of a hassle I'd rather be using a spray can again. But I know I'm doing it wrong so far and I just need some assistance to get this to work.
I remember reading quite a while ago that you don't have to water these paints down, but I just can't see these working unless I do. But how much watering down is needed, and how long can you guys go before the paint stops spraying nicely?
I know this question has most likely been answered a long time ago, but it would take hours to sort through all the messages.
Any help would be great, thanks!
Ben
Thinning Fascolor
Bencolor-Never had to thin Fascolor, it does come out of the bottle a bit thick, but I use a minimum of 40 psi with it, preferrably around 60. I do have to do a thorough cleaning of my airbrush (a Pasche VL)between bodies,(taking it completely apart and using acetone and a pipecleaner) but never betwen coats, usually just water or Badger airbrush cleaner betwen colors. (Fasglitter is a different story, instaclog) Maybe try a different combination of needles and tips to see if that might alleviate the problem. If you continue to have problems with Fascolor, try the new Pactra water based paint, it's very thin, and sprays more like conventional paint. I like the thickness of the Fascolor, as I almost always use the detail cup, and the Fascolor tends not to spill out as easily.
JS- Great tip on the tracing paper, take it easy man, I've been letting the rats win the race lately, but got to get 3 bodies done for the Philly hobby show by this Friday, only got one masked so far, oh well. Also got prototypes for EDM bodies done for 2 types of car. God Bless you and hang in there.
Bencolor-Never had to thin Fascolor, it does come out of the bottle a bit thick, but I use a minimum of 40 psi with it, preferrably around 60. I do have to do a thorough cleaning of my airbrush (a Pasche VL)between bodies,(taking it completely apart and using acetone and a pipecleaner) but never betwen coats, usually just water or Badger airbrush cleaner betwen colors. (Fasglitter is a different story, instaclog) Maybe try a different combination of needles and tips to see if that might alleviate the problem. If you continue to have problems with Fascolor, try the new Pactra water based paint, it's very thin, and sprays more like conventional paint. I like the thickness of the Fascolor, as I almost always use the detail cup, and the Fascolor tends not to spill out as easily.
JS- Great tip on the tracing paper, take it easy man, I've been letting the rats win the race lately, but got to get 3 bodies done for the Philly hobby show by this Friday, only got one masked so far, oh well. Also got prototypes for EDM bodies done for 2 types of car. God Bless you and hang in there.
G
Guest
·I'm using the largest tip I have right now, #5, I believe it is. I have a few more that are smaller. I'm using the VL airbrush as well. I'll mess around and see if I can get it to work, but so far, the paint has been clogging up just several seconds after I'm spraying... I also do not have a pressure gauge on my compressor so I'm not sure what PSI I'm using, are there any inexpensive gauges that you know of?
PSI gages
Bencolor-Any store that handles plumbing or welding supplies should be able to hook you up with a pressure gage and all the fittings needed to hook it up for well under $10. If it's a purpose built airbrush compressor, (Pasche, Badger etc) it will only put out about 20 psi.
Bencolor-Any store that handles plumbing or welding supplies should be able to hook you up with a pressure gage and all the fittings needed to hook it up for well under $10. If it's a purpose built airbrush compressor, (Pasche, Badger etc) it will only put out about 20 psi.
G
Guest
·Hi guys,
Its been a while since I Posted, but i've been keeping an eye on you all
Thought Id show off my latest body, It took me bloomin ages to complete and took only a couple of races to trash it the pics are taken after that 2nd day, but a closer inspection show a completely different picture. Oh well, guess its back to designing a new one again, at least thats something to look forward to.
The Flame-like mask is from XXX-Main, the chequered rear was done using Liquid Mask and masking tape (dont ask!) the other details are on the pic.
The Alclad chrome is a delight to work with! Ive only ever used Faskolor, Is the pactra range the same stuff as alclad?? Wouldn't mind trying it.
PaulC2K
Its been a while since I Posted, but i've been keeping an eye on you all
Thought Id show off my latest body, It took me bloomin ages to complete and took only a couple of races to trash it
the pics are taken after that 2nd day, but a closer inspection show a completely different picture. Oh well, guess its back to designing a new one again, at least thats something to look forward to.The Flame-like mask is from XXX-Main, the chequered rear was done using Liquid Mask and masking tape (dont ask!) the other details are on the pic.
The Alclad chrome is a delight to work with! Ive only ever used Faskolor, Is the pactra range the same stuff as alclad?? Wouldn't mind trying it.
PaulC2K
G
Guest
·Picture never added itself, strange....
Attachments
Buggy Wing Painting
Dano-Cut the wing out, tape it to a scrap piece of wood or cardboard with the downside facing up, and paint away! If the flat look of the vertical portion of the side dams turns you off, you can either sticker it up with some decals, or take the more complicated way of wing painting-(I do this only if a customer requests it because it is tedious)-Mask the upward facing side of the horizontal part and the outsides of the side dams. Then paint the insides of the side dams, and the downside of the horizontal part as I have described in the first part of this post. Then you'll have shiny sidedams on your wing.
Dano-Cut the wing out, tape it to a scrap piece of wood or cardboard with the downside facing up, and paint away! If the flat look of the vertical portion of the side dams turns you off, you can either sticker it up with some decals, or take the more complicated way of wing painting-(I do this only if a customer requests it because it is tedious)-Mask the upward facing side of the horizontal part and the outsides of the side dams. Then paint the insides of the side dams, and the downside of the horizontal part as I have described in the first part of this post. Then you'll have shiny sidedams on your wing.
Paul- nice work! how well did the chrome hold up?
Tim- thanks again! I'm not taking any more orders till may, that backed up on work. But we got the store open, and will soon have pic's of it on our site. Still no races though, but they'll come back.
Kingpin- great idea!
Ben color- tip dry is a problem with the parma paints, especially at higher psi. Try to thin them just enough to spray through the brush at 40 psi, usually a teaspoon of water will be enough.
Hello to everyone- trying to get caught up on things, but it's almost madness right now. If not for the peace of mind from the Lord I would probably lose my mind. I hope to spend more time around here soon.
Unil next time!may the Lord bless and keep you!
Tim- thanks again! I'm not taking any more orders till may, that backed up on work. But we got the store open, and will soon have pic's of it on our site. Still no races though, but they'll come back.
Kingpin- great idea!
Ben color- tip dry is a problem with the parma paints, especially at higher psi. Try to thin them just enough to spray through the brush at 40 psi, usually a teaspoon of water will be enough.
Hello to everyone- trying to get caught up on things, but it's almost madness right now. If not for the peace of mind from the Lord I would probably lose my mind. I hope to spend more time around here soon.
Unil next time!may the Lord bless and keep you!
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