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Whats up guys? Just a couple of questions.First>>I have a new airbrush kit and I would like to know what type of paint(s) I can use with airbrush gun to paint model cars(AFX PLASTIC CARS ETC),And Second>>Where can I purchase it.Thanks Dwayne.Please send answers to e-mail [email protected] or post on site
 

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First off, WELCOME to the Hobbytalk forums Dwayne :wave:

Secondly, you can spray acrylics,enamels, or laquor type paints with an airbrush. Really it's a matter of thinning the paint,using the proper airbrush needles, and playing with air pressure to acheive the proper finnish you desire.

The same goes with paints....various types of paints (as mentioned above) may require you to need to play with air pressure...and different degrees of thinning....to get the finnish you desire.

I haven't used an airbrush in years.....but I have a REALLY nice Pasche compressor and gun that I plan to use in the future. so Far I'm VERY happy with the results that I acheive with a rattle can......so I go with that.

Good Luck! :thumbsup:

Brian
 

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Hi Dwayne, Is that a gravity feed or a siphon unit? You can shoot just about anything providing it's correctly thinned.

I use bomb cans and my airbrush. Every one has their favorite brand of paint. Testors, Tamiya, etc. Heck I really like Krylon or Duplicolor from the auto parts store. Drys fast. I've played with acrylics and the water base crap and hate them all. I like the stuff that says, "kills braincells on contact" right on the lable.

A good trick for your air brush, if you have a bombcan color you want/need to airbrush, is to blow a bunch into a suitable container and then pour it into your airbrush cup.

I always do a couple test passes on something sacrificial before I aim it at the car.

Good luck - Bill
 

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Hello and welcome to the nut bin!

I enjoy airbrushing too-

I would stay with the enamals myself, unless you can put a very thin coat of primer that will counter-act the "hot" laquer. Then, that comes to experimenting with the primers-

Although Bill mentioned having dire results using water based paints- I've found different results.
This is good for a thin coat if you want a "weathered" look, or if you plan on clearing it later.
I do use oil-based paint the most, though-

Speaking of watered or thinned down paint brings up another point:
Be careful as to keep the airbrush clean after each use, and depending on the paint- don't let it sit out too long between coats or it will thicken and clog the gun.

For painting slots, I go with a milky consistency for the body of the paint.



I can add another good tip:

Save all the directional tubes that attach to the spray nozzles that come with carb’, brake cleaner and ether (starting fluid). There are a few versions so save them all—you will find one that will work…

Clean the nozzles and tube out- I let them soak in mineral spirits overnight to soften up any dried up remains. I do this twice.

Take an old Testors paint bottle with little paint left that’s still in liquid form. Clean it out- again using mineral spirits until it’s spotless.

Drill a hole just larger than the spray nozzle in the paint bottle lid.
Insert the correct spray nozzle into the spray paint can of your choice.

You can now spray the paint into the bottle without creating any mess, over-spray, or fumes. Plus, you can mix it (or thin it) in the bottle.
It’s also really easy to get the paint out—I use an eye dropper.

When you are done, just replace the cap with the hole in it with another cap and you can save the paint.
Just be sure to clean the nozzles and directional tube after each use.


Cheers..
 

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micyou03 said:
Bill,

Do you know if Duplicolor works over Krylon primer without issues?

Mike

I've used Krylon primer for a long time...and never had any issues with Duplicolor, or any other rattle can paint over a Krylon primer :thumbsup:
 

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Test Everything!

micyou03 said:
Bill,

Do you know if Duplicolor works over Krylon primer without issues?

Mike
Hi Mike! Hoo boy! Unless I know for sure I always test shoot everything first when I'm mixing and matching. Unless forced at gunpoint I try not to use primer. It fills details I generally want to keep. I mostly do styrene so it's very forgiving and takes paint (direct top coats) well. I blow on a tack coat of color and then after it flashes off I slam on a good fluid top coat. I let this cure good and wet sand if necessary. I repeat the process as many times as it takes to get it straight.

I have had issues with a Krylon colors as a base coat, then topped with Duplicolor clear! I've also had issues with Duplicolor red primers reacting with other brand topcoats.

Lately I've used Martin Senor self etching high solids primer from Napa, when I must. I like it. Drys quick. Cuts well when sanding. Seems to be the ticket. So far no disasters! I've blown Krylon, Duplicolor, Rustoleum, and other garden variety enamels on it no problemo. It is a bit noxious though. :drunk:

Doesnt matter what I'm up to, I alwayspractice paint a plastic spoon, cup, whatever is hangin' around. There's nothing more aggravating then farging something up due to a reaction or nozzle problem. Especially when you've spent hard hours and effort in the build.

The best rule of thumb is to let each coat cure out for a day. The less remaining volatiles in each successive coat the better. It also provides time for the inevitable shrinkage that maginifies any errors you could correct before the next coat. Good luck! BTW Watcha' paintin'? Post up!

Bill
 
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