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Discussion Starter #1
hey does any one know of a easy way to strip paint off body. not looking for best in show on body paint but want something diff and don't have them money to buy a new body
 

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It Depends What Color Black And White Usually Will Not But There Are A Lot Of Colors That You Can Get Off If The Paint Hasn't Been On To Long.... You Can Use Nail Polish Remover And Q-tips... How Much Are You Trying To Strip The Whole Body Or Just Parts Of The Body??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the hole thing if i can get away with it. i know i can paint the out side. but bumping and rubbing when racing will take it off.
 

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You can't. The paint bonds to the body and can't be removed.
Hank,
You are my friend and I hate to dissagree with you.. but.....

You can get the paint out of a body.. It takes a LOT of scraping with a sharp knife or similiar tool. After you get most of it out.. you can lightly sand it with fine paper.
Do not use a solvent on it.. it will dull the plastic and the paint will look terrible.
It will not look the greatest.. and if you repaint with light colors.. chances are you will see remnants of the old paint. But if you are really on a tight budget it can be done. Not really worth the time or the mess.. Don't eat at McDonalds for three times or so and you save enough money for a new body....

Dan
 

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I Know it sounds Crazy,but some paint can be removed.

Try body wash , It,s made by dynamite & works pretty good on Pactra paint. At least most. make no mistake it can be pretty messy. I didnt like my SK paint job of about 2 months. here is the same body with a yellow paint job, repainted blue.( I have not tried it on parma fastcolor ) A bottle is about 6 or 7 $ . I used obout a third.



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This takes patience & a few hours but if the body's in good shape it can be worth it . Mail ordering a new sk boby would have been about $30. Apply some on a test spot on an old body.
Note: I could still faintly see the yellow paint,The blue covered it fine. You may have to go a little darker on the new paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
don't eat fast food that often so. i main i might just paint that out side and be done with it. and just touch it up every few races
 

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If it was waterbased paint, like Faskolor or AutoAir, it will come off. Try denatured alcohol, which is 100% safe on lexan.

If it's lacquer paint, like Pactra or Tamiya rattle can, forget it. What body is it? Maybe I have one in stock that we can work s deal on for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
sedan body 200mm its on a cyclone s set up to run stock, but im changing it over to 17.5 brushless for touring

not shear what's one it bot it off a guy at the track a few years ago. then my uncle passed and i stopped racing
 

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Ive tried EVERY suggestion known to man to strip paint from a body. Most did not work. Any that did left a very very light haze of the paint behind. Light enough not to see until I painted again. After all the chemicals I bought, the safety precaustions to follow, and hours spent, its cheaper to buy a new body.
 

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hey does any one know of a easy way to strip paint off body. not looking for best in show on body paint but want something diff and don't have them money to buy a new body
The guy's are right, it's much easier to just buy a new body if possible.

Jerzferno is correct. I had a yellow haze after removing the paint on my project. The pactra B&W came off completely.
& its it did not show after repainting.
Bolink came up with Body wash around 1990 to remove overspray. We didn't have the clear wrap on new body's at the time. They sold it to Dynamite when they closed. it works great on bleed thru & scuff marks. but it dosen'tlike some decals. And yes it was all pactra rattle can paints.

It was not designed for this. Do yourself a favor buy a new body.
 

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I know this is an old thread but hasn't anyone tried brake fluid? I used to collect and restore Cox Scorpions that I raced in the early 80's. Some of the used bodies I bought had paint jobs 25+ years old. Every one of them came clean with no damage. Some took longer than others but they all came out nicely. It works on plastic as well. I have a 1/14 Tamiya Knight Hauler that I primed, painted, clear coated and brake fluid stripped three times before I finally settled on a color I liked.

Joe
 

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I know this is an old thread but hasn't anyone tried brake fluid? I used to collect and restore Cox Scorpions that I raced in the early 80's. Some of the used bodies I bought had paint jobs 25+ years old. Every one of them came clean with no damage. Some took longer than others but they all came out nicely. It works on plastic as well. I have a 1/14 Tamiya Knight Hauler that I primed, painted, clear coated and brake fluid stripped three times before I finally settled on a color I liked.

Joe
Brake fluid does work only problem i had for it to be perfect you must soak it for like almost a month,and it worked for my old monster beetle.:thumbsup:
 

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Yeah, I had a wing that must have been painted with something cooked up at Area 51! It took about two days of total immersion to get it clean. I have had others that the paint started wrinkling in 20-30 minutes though. I've heard reports of the lexan hazing from the fluid but luckily it never happened to me.

Joe
 

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I know this is an old thread but hasn't anyone tried brake fluid? I used to collect and restore Cox Scorpions that I raced in the early 80's. Some of the used bodies I bought had paint jobs 25+ years old. Every one of them came clean with no damage. Some took longer than others but they all came out nicely. It works on plastic as well. I have a 1/14 Tamiya Knight Hauler that I primed, painted, clear coated and brake fluid stripped three times before I finally settled on a color I liked.

Joe
I would like to know if you painted your chrome pieces? I have the King Hauler and the chrome is too bright...wanted to paint either a stainless or aluminum color. Any suggestions for a primer/paint/sealer that'll stand up to use?
Thank you.
 

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I would like to know if you painted your chrome pieces? I have the King Hauler and the chrome is too bright...wanted to paint either a stainless or aluminum color. Any suggestions for a primer/paint/sealer that'll stand up to use?
Thank you.
I didn't paint my chrome but you're right, there's a lot of it and it's awful bright. Take a look here for some pretty cool metal look paints you could use to dress it down a bit. http://www.alclad2.com/ I have their chrome paint and it looks great on the inside of a lexan body. For the body on mine I used Dupli-Color primer and clear with Tamiya color coat. My truck is a display piece and seldom gets driven so the paint hasn't been battle tested. I'm sure it'll hold up to most anything though.

Joe
 

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brake fluid

I HAVE USED BREAK FLUID TO STRIP PAINT FROM 4 BODIES AND IT WORKS,BUT TAKES TIME.i SLOP IT ON BODY AND LET THEM SIT FOR COUPLE OF DAYS,AND RUB THE PAINT OFF.i HAVE NOT HAZED ANY BODY YET.i DID A vENDETTA FRACTORY FINISH AND CHANGE COLOR AND SCHEME,NO PROBLEM,JUST LABOR.i LIKE TINKERING:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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