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As I have gotten better at cleaning and tuning pancake chassis, I now seem to be running into an issue. The cars are getting too responsive. Let me s'plain.
I am running on Mattel track using old Aurora 20-22v power packs. The controllers are 60 Ohm Russkits.
As I work on a (Aurora stock) pancake chassis, I can get them better and better. Eventually some of them get so responsive that the slightest touch on the controller gets them going near full speed. There is no slow speed, so negotiating 6" (and 9") curves is often a matter of letting off the trigger completely and then "jerking" the car around the turn.
So I am starting to wonder whether 20 volts is too high to run cars once you get them tuned up, or maybe the 60 ohm controller is not high enough at the 20 volt level. I know when the JL cars came out, the general advice was to get a 90 to 120 ohm controller, but these are not "hot" armatures or high performance parts. In almost all cases, it's the original 40+ year old parts with the standard gearing.
Opinions?
Thanks...Joe
I am running on Mattel track using old Aurora 20-22v power packs. The controllers are 60 Ohm Russkits.
As I work on a (Aurora stock) pancake chassis, I can get them better and better. Eventually some of them get so responsive that the slightest touch on the controller gets them going near full speed. There is no slow speed, so negotiating 6" (and 9") curves is often a matter of letting off the trigger completely and then "jerking" the car around the turn.
So I am starting to wonder whether 20 volts is too high to run cars once you get them tuned up, or maybe the 60 ohm controller is not high enough at the 20 volt level. I know when the JL cars came out, the general advice was to get a 90 to 120 ohm controller, but these are not "hot" armatures or high performance parts. In almost all cases, it's the original 40+ year old parts with the standard gearing.
Opinions?
Thanks...Joe