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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, Im usually over in the slot car forum, but used to be into RC in the 80s.

I bought two complete RC10s with radios at a flea market today and the battery packs are shot. Should I buy a regular Nimh battery or can I use a Lipo battery.

One car seems to have a stock motor and one is a Reedy Mr. F.

I havent messed with RC since maybe 90 and Ive been looking at the modern stuff and realize a lot has changed.

I saw the cars, and the parts they had in them along with all the extras, and the kid in me jumped at the opportunity. Both cars run, but the packs dont really hold a charge. Any advice would be great.

Thanks,
Dyno
 

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if your not going to race , just get some low cost 1700 nicd or 3300 nimhs.
how many turns is a MR T motor?
what kind of esc do they have?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response,

I dont know much about the Reedy Motor.

One car is a gold pan with the original box and 1984 dated paperwork. The speed control is an Electronic Futaba MC112 B and the receiver is a Futaba FR R2H, it has aluminum rims and foam tires. It has a rear sway bar and is set up for oval track racing with a mid 80s Camaro body.

The Black pan car has a Futaba MC111B electronic speed control and a Futaba FR R2H receiver. This car also has different aluminum rims with foam tires, a sway bar and is set up for oval track racing with a Grand am or Grand Prix body. Both cars have a Futaba Magnum Junior transmitters, model number FPT2PKA.

One of the cars had a 6 cell battery and the other a 7, I think the Reedy motor car had the 7 cell.

Have any ideas on the value of all this stuff? The original box has a few sets of wheels and tires, shocks, assorted springs, a servo, stickers, assorted small parts. I will add some pictures if I can.

Thanks again
 

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Jump to rc10talk.com for all your questions except value, Those guys are so in tune that they can probably tell you who packed the kits in the box. They also are tough on buy/sell/trade, you have to make 25 intelligent/relevent posts before you talk $. I'll tell you this, if you bought this cheap and want to get rid of it you'll come out ahead as having the 1984 box/paperwork is a plus...:dude:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the info. I feel like I got the lot for cheap, but one mans cheap can be outrageous to someone else. I was thinking about selling one and keeping the other.
 

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Thank you for the info. I feel like I got the lot for cheap, but one mans cheap can be outrageous to someone else. I was thinking about selling one and keeping the other.
You could use a lipo as well you just won't have a cutoff unless you get a an in line cutoff. The lipos last a lot longer than nihms.
 

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Hey Dyno
Those are two cool old school rc10's, value of them depends on who's looking to buy them. Your probably better off keeping them and updating the electronic's. The only reason I say update the electronics is because they may or may not be able to handle the power of a new battery, especially if you do you Lipo's. and the second reason to update is the radio's that are in them still use the crystal technology, which was very good in it's time but is sadly out-dated now. Nothings worse then seeing your new rc going out of control because somebody else is on that frequency. Chasing the car down the block just to see it Crash into a curb at full speed is no fun.
 

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Cutoff is so you don't drain a Lipo of all it's power. Unlike a regular battery you can only drain a Lipo so far. The technology is totally different then the old school batteries. Although you didn't want to totally drain the old school's either for fear of reversing a cell. If you do start using Lipo's go to the manafacture's web site and read all the spec's on how to charge and usage.
Here's a story that will help you out understand Lipo Technology.- http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool, I will check that out. I will be going to the hobby shop tonight to see what they have over there.
Thanks again
 
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