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There are quite a few new pics of the MR TOS "E" posted on the master replicas forum. The gridlines are so over pronounced, especially on the underside of the saucer! I'm so perplexed, although I still haven't even received an email notice from MR yet, so maybe I’m not even getting one. Not sure of anything at this point! I'm sure of one thing...those advertised pics that we've been seeing for 7 months are inaccurate representations of the final product.
Here's what I’m thinking of doing at this point, and I'd like all input possible from you all:
I'm going to paint match as close as possible the light grey color they've used, then carefully mask the decals and windows, etc with frisket paper on the upper and lower primary hull. I’m going to then mist the primary hull only, causing a fading effect on the grid lines. I'll be very careful to mask/protect the engine pods and secondary hull as I have no intention of touching them at all. I'll then weatherize as I see fit. In addition, I’m painting the dish a lighter copper color to differentiate it from the amplifier rings. What do you think?
 

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I feel the same, and was wondering myself, if it was feasible to do what your going to do. The underside of the saucer is taking on the 'dartboard effect' similar to the original big E's current paint job. I placed an order on June 13, and have not received any word on delivery. I'd be interested in viewing your repairs, when your ship arrives, and wish you the best of luck.
 

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If you've got the skills to do it, then go for it. I feel the same way, those grid lines are grossly overdone, and are not representative of what was advertised.

As for painting mine, I'm tempted and terrified! Will I cancel my order? No, but I hope the one I get will be an improvement over the variations I've seen so far.

John
 

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I would hold your horses for a bit though, exact paints used may become known to color match perfectly. Hopefully it was not a custom mix. Also a dull clear coat was used too, You could re-dull coat the area afterwards or the entire model to make the finish match. I would try to test any teqniques used on something else to prove it out and get the practice.
They didn't use decals on the saucer. The lettering and striping are wonderfully printed on there, so you want to be careful how you mask around them, but I am sure a fresh layer of clear dull coat should blend any work you do nicely.

I bet there is a cheapy snap together pre-painted model out there of something or other to practice on. Draw some gridlines about the same thickness, clear dull coat over them and see how well you can minimize them and keep the original markings appearance.
 

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It's a shame you have to spend that type of money to correct flaws and QC issues. I can see if it was a less expensive piece, but this is unforgivable. I'm I'm just happy I didn't. I'm not currently in need of a 1/350th Original E but if I ever want one, I'll go with one of the upcoming vac kits, and take my time with it.
 

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I think sometimes, just sometimes, we are all too anal for our own good :) :)
 

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I think they look fine. They appear to be about right for that scale.
 

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They look fine to me. They really give the Enterprise a sense of scale, with the large prefabricated hull panels set in place and attached to the ships structure. I know the entire arguement with the gridlines penciled on to the 11 foot studio model. I personally want what was intended by the design choices. What I see on the MR model is a nice compromise to what was done by the studio technicians on a limited budget and what they intended for the Enterprise to look like if she were a real ship.

Since the MR model is intended to depict the Starship and not the studio model (I don't want to see the philiips head screws holding the nacelle endcaps on my $1200 model.......) then I am accepting of the gridlines.

Regardless, if I am going to spend $1200+ on a model, I'm not going to 'fix' something that really isn't broken to begin with.
 

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So far with only three examples posted on the net. The one at the MR blog site is noticebly thicker/darker grids on the bottom. I do not think it is because of the camera used or flash either.

The one the sent me was rather subdued on the bottom...
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e1.jpg

But this one has gone back because of failing saucer lights.

Who knows what I will get in exchange, or when for that matter. It is all at the mercy of how the Hong Kong artist did their job that day.
IF I get something back less then ideal, I am slightly contemplating just keep buying them until I get one I think nails it, then sell the rest. Im sure you could turn a profit if you wait until they sell out and a little demand builds. Anyways just thinking out loud there a little. It is a butt load of money for mere models, but people invest far more in the stock market.
 

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Ohio_Southpaw said:
They look fine to me. They really give the Enterprise a sense of scale, with the large prefabricated hull panels set in place and attached to the ships structure. I know the entire arguement with the gridlines penciled on to the 11 foot studio model. I personally want what was intended by the design choices. What I see on the MR model is a nice compromise to what was done by the studio technicians on a limited budget and what they intended for the Enterprise to look like if she were a real ship.

Since the MR model is intended to depict the Starship and not the studio model (I don't want to see the philiips head screws holding the nacelle endcaps on my $1200 model.......) then I am accepting of the gridlines.

Regardless, if I am going to spend $1200+ on a model, I'm not going to 'fix' something that really isn't broken to begin with.




Ohio_Southpaw, I couldn't agree with you more.
 

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That's really odd how inconsistent it is. I could definitely live with the level of the gridlines you have, but the one posted on that other site is WAY too dark.
 

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CessnaDriver said:
So far with only three examples posted on the net. The one at the MR blog site is noticebly thicker/darker grids on the bottom. I do not think it is because of the camera used or flash either.

The one the sent me was rather subdued on the bottom...
http://home.san.rr.com/maxxq/e1.jpg

But this one has gone back because of failing saucer lights.

Who knows what I will get in exchange, or when for that matter. It is all at the mercy of how the Hong Kong artist did their job that day.
IF I get something back less then ideal, I am slightly contemplating just keep buying them until I get one I think nails it, then sell the rest. Im sure you could turn a profit if you wait until they sell out and a little demand builds. Anyways just thinking out loud there a little. It is a butt load of money for mere models, but people invest far more in the stock market.
The lines on the one you had looked fine, the one on the other forum, look in the pictures anyway, to be a little more pronounced than I would like.
 

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It is a hand drawn detail, so the subtley can be lost on some of the artist/workers doing this job. We need more examples. Three is not enough to know what is normal yet. I am sure many more pics will go up soon as people get them and we can know more what to expect.
 

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CessnaDriver said:
...IF I get something back less then ideal, I am slightly contemplating just keep buying them until I get one I think nails it, then sell the rest. Im sure you could turn a profit if you wait until they sell out and a little demand builds...
I know Disney was selling MR's $300 monorail for as little as $79. And, that was a gorgeous die-cast piece. I can't see this thermoplastic Enterprise bringing more than the issue price.

For $1200 :eek: , you shouldn't be the least bit hesitant to tell MR EXACTLY what you want, in your model. Think of it as a commissioned art work.
 
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