this the set up i ran to qualify 3rd and finish 2nd @ FOCAR race 3 on flat carpet in 19T
carpet setup for RPM on a Box Stock Team Associated 10L4 first the easy stuff
tires 3 magentas purple rf all TRC a protoform hd Monte carlo Bud's medium bi-level wing with level removed. Jack the gripper tire traction full rear outside 1/2 lf and inside 1/4 rf
front end LF wolfe red spring with IRS king pin +1deg camber ) deg castor 5 hole hyperdrive block in the 3rd hole.
RF wolfe green spring irs king pin -1 deg camber 2 + castor 5 hole block in the 2nd hole
center 40 wt with silver spring pod level side shocks silva hard coated blue springs on both 40 wt I run the 4 cell try in the middle position with batts all the way out oh yah I run a straight up pod with a .075 t plate.
ride height was 5.5 front and rear. I cut tires down to 2.300 rear and 2.280 front.
when using Jack the gripper it is a must to clean the tires after a couple of runs just spray motor spray on a rag and wipe with a blue shop rag. apply the gripper 4 heats before then wipe dry with blue shop towel 1 heat before.
gearing i stayed ran a 38 pin 104 spur till after the second qual then went to a 39/106 with a ultra slug I ran 4383 brush full face purple spring and cut it and new brushes every run.
this is pretty much the setup that I have used @ HW slight banked asphalt and Stricklands flat asphalt actually the only difference is I didn't use tire sauce there.
I am currently running a Factory Team RC10 L4O, and I am beating the KSG"s, Hyperdrives, and whatnot. But of course I've made tons of changes to the chassis with complete IRS parts, Silva concept parts, and more...
I am thinking of buying the KSG sway-bar kit for it, but I am not sure how it'll work out at our track since it's a short/fast tri-oval.
My L40s been so good lately that I parked my Leading Edge cars! Depending on what type track and class your running I highly suggest trying Sylvas T-plate with just a lil rear stear. Brought my car to LIFE running caps on a banked concrete track, funny thing is I had put it in to try at a flat asphalt track and didnt change it for the concrete.
Hey Dave P,
You running any rear stear in your " Box Stock L40" cough ,cough?
I have always ran my cars straight up so I can't tell yah what and offset car feels like. I run the batteries in the middle like that because I just did't like the feel of the car with them back. I like my cars to turn when I say turn. I just like the hyperdrive blocks better I've had the irs ones in the past and they provide more adjustment but I can do the samething with shims behind the caster block.
Dave: Here is my current set-up for my track. It's a 88' flat carpet tri-oval. Do you think you can tell me if this seems lieka n alright set-up, it has done alrigth for me but I was fighting the car most of the time!
Jaco tires: RF:Blue LF:Green RR:Black LR:Grey
Springs: RF spring:Wolfe red LF spring:Wolfe green R micro:Blue L micro:Red Macro(center):Silver (I have a Hyperdrive adjustable center shock tower at the 2nd hole from the top)
POD: offset, with 0 degrees of rear-steer, I have the long hub and IRS axle withHPI 116 tooth spur.
Motors/Batteries: I use Pole Position GP3300 cells, with mainly monster Pro stock motors.
Body: Bandit HD Monte Carlo
Electronics: LRP Quantum Competition 2 JR radio, reciever, and servo
Well theres basically what I am running, I do alrigth with that set-up, but I figth the car a bit when I am near other drivers and occasionnaly it's handling is way off compared to toher driver's cars.
Do you have any ideas of how I could improve my cars handling? NOTE: there are pics of my track at the website under my name!
wow that track looks cool. I think I would run the rear steer seems like you are always turning by looking at the pictures. I have never been a fan of running somany different tire compounds. I think it make the car very un predictalble I like to run the same comp rear and LF and a purple or black rf if you are running mostly stock try 4 blacks or the TRC 3 magenta purple rf. another thing to take the twitchy ness out of the car is the center shock height the higher you go the more weight it transfers thus giving you more steering response. try this put it 1 hole up from the stock location if you feel you need the car to respond quicker you can rise it up another hole. i also run the protoform hd monte it really plants the car.
Alright I'll try that out! Ya we are constantly turning on our track, it's super fast too! the track record is 101 laps in 5 minutes, and that's in the 4-cell stock class! I havn't tried my car out yet this year with some of the gadgets I have on it, but I am going testing soemtime in the next few weeks.
So, you say try out a bit of rear-steer? what about my springs they seem like they would work fine?
I just used a Digital camera, those cars that you saw are the Bolink SPEC cars, of course they wrn't at they're full spped because it's my mom's camera and ya, I didn't want it broken or I'd have no legs! LOL
Thanks for the comments on the site, I enjoy supporting my hobby!
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries www.geocities.com/cornwallrc
i just notice you run the front sprins oppsite a green is a 14 and a red is a 12 I would swap them put the green on the RF and the red on the LF. i also am not a big fan of running different side shock springs try to blues. your going to have to set the tweek again alot of people like there scales but I have found that they can get you out to lunch quick. I make a line down the centerline and use an exacto and pick the rear pod up first I set it level then put 1 turn in the rr shock and hit the track if it pushes I take a little out if it is loose off then I put alittle in but i don't like to run alot there are other things that can be change to fix it. am not trying to get you to change your hole set up here but I hope this helps.
Hey! You should come join our copnversation in the Outside of U.S. categorie! No we will be racing on Saturdays starting very soon, just visit the site and show everbody else you know that would like to make a trip down the site, it has all the info taht you need and some changes for this year!
Ok. How about we post an "FAQ" of mods to box-stock L4s.
For example here are some of the tweaks I am aware:
- trim the right side upper a-arm so there is more camber adjustment
- mount the left side tie-rod end underneat the steering block (also trimming the plastic castor support block) to correct ackerman
- modify the steering block (trim) to adjust caster at the steering block instead of the hinge pin side
I am trying to stay away from "hop ups" such as :
- use wolfe long king pins and spacers to move in or out the wheel