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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just wanted to let everyone know Hyperdrive won 3 of the 4 classes at the ARCOR NC State race at Chatham R/C Speedway last night. Hyperdrive also reset 2 track records as well. Mike Wilson on a PRO2 in 19 Zero and Jamie Raymer on a 700 in Stock.

Spec
TQ Marty Freedle (PRO2)
1st Brooks Derting (PRO2 Shorty)

Stock
TQ Jamie Raymer (track record by a lap on a 700)
1st Jamie Raymer (won by 2 laps on a 700)

19 Zero
TQ Mike Wilson (track record by a lap on a PRO 2)
1st Mike Wilson (PRO2)

Congrats to all of the winners last night and to Barry and Joe for the awesome cars!


If anyone has any questions or comments about Hyperdrive cars just post them here. We will try to get all of them answered ASAP!
 

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Congrats to all of the winners last night and to Barry and Joe for the awesome cars![/QUOTE]
My thoughts exactly Tony. My Pro2 is awesome in 19 0 degree and am in the process of getting my 700 ready for some 19 Open action. The Hyperdrive Team guys are the best when you need help with your car as well, Special Thanks to Humpty Helms for everything he has done for me in the last year.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I agree Mike, big props to Jeff "Humpy" Helms for the set up tips. Jeff has been a big help in the last couple of months after switching to Hyperdrive. If you ever need any help at all, just give Humpty a holla' as he WILL hook you up.

Thanks a bunch Jeff.
 

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setup

i have a couple hyperdrive cars and love them 1 pro2 and 1 shorty i need to know a good starting point for track width and length to run at ashville i would be running stock 4 cell if available to run there
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I would use this set up as a starting point for any flat track on caps. This is my record set up in 4-cell stock at Chatham.

Bandit HD Monte Carlo
Buds big wing, no bi-level
PRO2 shorty in long wheelbase up front and short on t-plate


LF
Centered .060 plate
Red spring
.040 preload
9110 pin
Wolfe oncenter axle no shims behind wheel
Green L Pro-lite
0 caster HD block in middle hole


RF
Narrow .060 plate
Red spring
.060 preload
9110 pin
Wolfe Oncenter axle no shims behind wheel
Pink L net
split caster stock associated block


Center
HD graphite center shock mount top hole
2nd hole front front (mount on chassis)
HPI PRS Hardcoat shock w/.090 long RPM ball cup
#1 piston 50 wt. oil
3" total center shock length
Silva black spring 7 rounds of preload
Associated spring retainer
Finishline "L" shaped double slot spring steel
1 shim under front pivot ball
pod flush/even with chassis


LR
Silva PRS hardcoat shock w/o-ring seal
25wt. oil
RPM short ball cups both sides and no shims
Associated Opaque 6lb. spring
Tall ball stud mounted 2nd hole in
Green L prolite narrow


RR
Silva PRS hardcoat w/o-ring seal
25wt. oil
RPM short ball cups both sides no shims
Associated Black 4LB. spring
Tall ball stud mounted 2nd hole in
Pink R net wide


#1's down in the rear

Offset pod

Line up left sides and the outside LR to outside RR 7 3/4"

Mount the wing on the pod as low to the deck as possible. Edge of wing even
with kick up on deck spoiler
 

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Hey Fatback....how long are the 9110 kingpins? Ive got some but they are all mixed in with my other stuff and need to do the front end for vegas.

EA
 

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Looks about like what i sent you,huh jose?come on down a bring a couple buddies,6c spec is the pick class now,probably have 4c stk at NORRCA race.
 

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Pro 2 Setup for Vegas (or similar track )

Hi guys

Am running the Kimbrough race in Vegas this week, and was wondering about some stuff. Track is 510 ft drive line lightly banked corners. Just started running the Pro 2 and so far is 2 laps faster than my L4. (local 150' flat track) trying to just some ideas on how the car has reacted for those of you who run it consistantly. Here is my setup: (flat track) Tires are Purples.

LF = top a arm level (3 hole)
9110 kingpin
Wolfe Pro green spring minimal preload
.5 caster
.5 camber

Rf = top a arm just below level (4 hole )
9110 kingpin
Wolfe Pro red spring minimal preload
2.0 degrees caster
0 deg camber

rear = HD bias ply t-plate 1/4 slotted (level on chassis)
pod on center
side shocks= silva 40 wt. silva bronze springs
center shock = hpi 50 wt #2 piston silva silver spring
#2 axle inserts
minimal tweak (almost none) maybe 6 lbs.

So far on a 150' flat track, this setup works very well. Car could be a loosened up a tick. (tick tight till i get the handle) What would you from experience do to setup to run such a long flat driveline? Any ideas will be added to my notebook. Thanks ahead of time!!!!!
 

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I'm looking for tips and tricks to free up my car in the corners. Let me preface that by saying that I'm still on a learning curve and do aknowledge that I'm not ready to run a really loose and free car. So what I'm looking for is some beginner steps to free up the car in the corners.......not Andy Mac or Eric Anderson steps! LOL
 

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Yep, I know that real well, Brandon! I just want to put one toe over the line, not the whole foot yet! I probably can't ask it on this thread but........anyway.......was that a Bandit body you ran Saturday? Anyone else at BMS running Bandit bodies?
 

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First you have to determine what your car is doing.

Is it ?
A. Scrubbing speed in the turns so you need to free it up or
B. The car is not scrubbing (efficient through the turns) but the car is too planted?
That is 2 different things you are working with there.

Usually if the car is scrubbing I always find it is in my front kingpins. Always make sure they are polished/sanded and lubed. I recommend Bolink Sure lube or Zubak's speed goop. Also as you polish the pins and you have em chucked in the dremel make sure they are not bent. Another way to easily check for bent pins is by rolling them on a flat surface. Put the pins back in and make sure the pivot balls are not worn out and no slop is in them. Make sure the kingpins move up and down with ease and there is no binding this is really important, spend a lot of time here. Also make sure your front bearings are good and the spindle is not bent at all. If you take a good hit to the front end make sure the alum castor blocks are not bent.

Did you double check your camber and castor to make sure you have them set where they need to be? Ask the local hotshoes and they can assist you in the proper settings for your track. Check them in this order, castor/camber/front end alignment (toe in/toe out). This is very important and often overlooked and make sure to check it often cause a big hit can knock it all out of alignment.

Now the front end is all built properly, are you sure you have the proper front springs? I have learned that this is key to a fast car. What works for some will not work for others. For every track I race on, I try and get my car to about 25-28 on dual rate on my radio. I know if I need 35 dual rate that my car is sprung too stiff up front. If the dual rate is only about 15, then I know I am too soft up front. Find the happy medium.

Make sure the side shocks are re-built often. I re-do mine each week. I have felt shocks that feel good then you open em up and they have no oil whatsoever in them. The car will not work properly with tired shocks.

Okay so the car is efficient now through the turns but the car is still too planted.

First I would take some tweak out - Keep taking tweak out until the car loops on you. Measure it, then add a tad more tweak until you can drive it again. If you are running a larger Right Front tire than the Left front you may not need as much tweak in the car. Because the larger RF tire is putting weight on the LR.

Try adding some preload to the center spring or go with a harder center spring.

Next I would change tires. I have no clue with caps as I do not run them regularly.
If you run foams put harder tires on to get the car up off the carpet.

Maybe try a harder t-plate.
But if the track is bumpy that will not work.

Raise the wing up off the deck lid. The lower the wing = more rear downforce.

Experiment with different bodies - If the car is stuck with say an HD Monte, try a Dodge. I normally run the Proto Taurus but when I needed to car to be a tad more free I would throw a Bolink Taurus on.

Hope that helps
Eric H.
 

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Eric, that helps a TON! Thanks! Just for reference, I'm running BMS and I'm sure you know that track. So it's caps and a high banked track.
 

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Lisa, Eric is always a big help just remember try one thing at a time then, and if it doesn't work go back one step and try something else!

Brooks
 

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Thanks needs to got to Barry and Joe for the great car that I got to win spec with this weekend! I love my Shorty pro2!
Also need to thank Tony "Fatback" Moffre and Jeff "Humpty" Helms for all the set up help that they gave me!

Hyperdrive has the best guys, They will go out of their way to help out!

Thank you
Brooks
 

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20TN40 said:
Eric, that helps a TON! Thanks! Just for reference, I'm running BMS and I'm sure you know that track. So it's caps and a high banked track.
Lisa,
Yes I have been to BMS. That track takes a lot of work to be fast.
Brandon S. runs for Hyperdrive down there. He should be able to help you out.

One thing I know was to not drive the car down the straights at all there. If you do you lose tenths.

Watch the line the hot shoes there run and try and run that line. If I remember right in the front shoot you wanted the car to touch the yellow line 3/4th the way down the straight and in the back shoot you wanted to stay under the yellow line to be quick.

I am not a cap racer. I know there are a lot of tips and tricks to figuring out the proper tire prep techniques. So ask around.
 

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Brandon won't help me........he's helping Dennis "Daredevil" Dean! LOL I'm telling ya, it's fend for yourself at BMS lately! Every time we think we've got something figured out in Spec, Lee Ricker tacks another lap on the record! I'm figuring in a few more weeks, the Spec record will be higher than the Super Spec record!

Lee has been a good help to me in working on my radio and working on my springs. But in Spec, we just about stand in awe when he hits the track. Course, he's also running Super Spec where he upped the track record to 44 4:03, spec is 42 4:01.
 
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