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Discussion Starter #1
Let's just suppose you were going to build and light all the interior spaces for the windows on the NX-01... Are there any plans out there that show what is supposed to be there?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
any thoughts?

quick interior model concept (digital) photoetch, light tape/sheet...

any thoughts? Have you seen the amazing details that have been made for Titanic models?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
and getting back to my original question...

I have gotten no responses... are there any resources out there that tell us what is behind those windowes on the NX?

I don't want to put a whole bunch of work into making my "one off" without getting it right so others can enjoy the parts I make.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still thinking...

another shot of my idea...

...just seeing how far I can get before I get some constructive or destructive advice...
 

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I've fantasized about this very issue, and have considered the hull skin (keeping each port from looking like a long tube... and looking like it's a thin, flush pane in a thin skin.) to be the biggest bear; both for the upper/lower surfaces but especially for the saucer rim.

But I love bears...!

At that scale, you need those panes to be near-perfect in clarity to maintain the suspension of disbelief.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
the plan

I'm laying out a set of photo etched skin parts for the top and bottom of the saucer so those windows can be near flush and have thin clear plastic windows. For the sides I think I'll just go with the parts as is but use thin clear plastic for the windows. The side window thickness isn't that bad and there's good detail on the side parts where the top and bottom parts are smooth to begin with.

The interior will be mostly photo etched parts. If I can get some good reference for what is supposed to be in there I'll make a kit out of it all... other wise it will just be my little madness.

I really want to do the same thing for the refit... but it will be much harder as the smooth look is important to the overall quality. The NX-01 will let me lay down thin plates without hurting the look of the model.

The attached image shows what I've been planning.. but I've just about decided to do away with most of the little detail plates and just go with the larger plates that are needed to do the windows... not out of any kind of laziness... I think it will look better. I also realize that I will have to compensate for curvature... so simply laying them out on the flat iamge will not be sufficient. I will generate 3D computer model of the curvatures and unfold to get the flat plan for the photo etch.

Another reason for doing away with the many little detail parts is the size of the photo etch sheet required becomes unreasonably large. I'm planning on having my sheet etched professionally by a service... but if there is anyone out there that does good home brew etching... speak up if you want to go in on it with me!
 

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drewid142 said:
another shot of my idea...

...just seeing how far I can get before I get some constructive or destructive advice...
I do not see any thumbnails or images in this thread. When I click on the placeholder for the inage, I get a "The page cannot be displayed" message.
 

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Do you use some kind of pop-up blocker software? Some of them are a little too aggressive and block windows that are supposed to pop up. I use PopUpStopper from PanicWare, and it allows you to hold down the Ctrl key to temporarily bypass the program and allow pop up windows.
 

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ya know...

If your doing the top and bottom skins, you could go all-in and do the saucer perimeter as a relief-etched set, to which one would add strip stock for the "next level" relief. Just a thought... but I betcha it will be harder than it sounds to integrate into the model!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
my thoughts exactly...

I was going to do exactly that... but I looked real careful at the parts and decided it would be hard to top what's there already. I'll probably give it a try...

On the refit I think the opposite is true... the edge of the saucer (and the neck) will be easily done with relief etched part... but the smooth surface of the bottom of the saucer and the engineering hull... they don't lend themselves well to this technique... I'm still thinking about it.

I'll probably spend quite a few evenings staring at the refit when I get it and figuring it all out.
 

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As far as what's supposed to be inside the windows, you'll just have to extrapolate from the interior sets. All the renders of the outside of the ship show generic shapes behind the windows, nothing detailed with chairs, bunks, tables, etc.

Interesting idea on etched exterior sheets, but won't that get pretty expensive on top of the interior bits? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
sure you can!

Looking in the windows on the bottom of the saucer... the ceiling lights will be clearly visible. Looking in the windows on the top the illuminated rooms with furniture will be visible. Looking in the side windows you may see both.

For the bottom saucer I'm planning on making a simple plug (shown in image included) that fits in the drilled out hole in the skin part and behind the photoetched plate that mounts on the outer surface. Back lit Photoetched ceiling parts will add complexity and should look swell. Simulated view looking in bottom saucer window shows ceiling details clearly visible.

Expensive? Probably so... it seems that I can get a large sheet etched professionally for about $30 to $40. I'm not planning on getting into the kit business... but if it works well I'll look for someone that might want to mass produce them as kits with me. The way I look at it... if you're going to spend a hundred hours... or a thousand hours working on a model... why not drop a few bucks to do it up right!
 

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I think this idea is getting way too anal. You're talking about holes that are less than 1/8" diameter. Can you REALLY see what's behind them, or are you just theorizing that you can see what's behind them because, as empty holes, you can see through them? Do you realize just HOW SMALL AND SHARP these details will need to be to be seen thru a hole that small? Have you tried a physical mockup of an interior piece, not just these computer theories?

If you can pull it off, great! I just think this is sounding like an exercise in futility.

A fanatic is someone who increases his efforts when he's lost sight of his goal.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
so negative Ziz?

I think the illuminated interiors will look WAY better than the window lights that you ussually see on models. The little plugs will all be identical and so easy to mass produce. The photoetched plates on the skin will be easy to apply and will hide any sloppy cutting on the original skin object. Small and sharp details are easy to do with photoetched thin plates.

As for trying physical mock ups... I've got these little 1/350 figures, and I've got the NX model and of course I try things out... that's how I figured the side windows would be fine as they are but the top and bottom needed the thinner photoetched plates to look good. I'll post some test when I get to it in a month or two.

For the interior rooms I'll probably just make a collection of parts that get re-used all over the place.

Lighten up. I think it will look SUPER!

As I said... have you been to the Titanic model site I posted earlier in this thread? and have you ever looked at www.fineartmodels.com these guys set the bar way high and inspire modelers to take the art further.

...well I just noticed you are the moderator... if you want me to stop posting on this subject that's fine... just tell me...

but is it anal when a modeller puts hundreds of little strips of foil on the Command module to simulate the mylar tape... or they go to the trouble of foiling the bumber on their car model and the little metal strips or the headlinght frames... it is the detail that you are calling anal that is what makes a model a piece of fine art... GOLLY!

an exercise in futility would be to attempt to make the world idiot proof

nice definition for fanatic... but I would say that a modeler that is an artist is one that sees a task will be daunting... but does it anyway... because it will be that work and those details that make his or her work special and unique... that make it art.

I say GOLLY to you again!
 
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