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Discussion Starter #41
I'm guessing I'll be there most of the day Friday, Marty so I'll see you and The Show as soon as you arrive! Have a safe trip!

Lisa
 

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20TN40 said:
........And if anyone out there has a composite list of what color springs are what (front, center and sides) I'd love to copy that too.
Lisa- Check out this website:
http://classichobbiesraceway.com/modules/SetupSheet/SetupSheet2-10.pdf
http://classichobbiesraceway.com/modules.php?name=SetupSheet
IMO,it is one of the best setup sheets for oval available. The second page has a huge list of springs,t-plates,tires and their specs. Great "must-have" for your (or anybody's) notebook,pit-box or trailer!
-George
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Wow George, you are right! That is a comprehensive list and I sure thank you for supplying the information! Now do you know what the temperature readings signify on the BSR website?
 

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20TN40 said:
From another thread I was reading on, someone said to look at the BSR webpage as they had the temps listed for the tires. What does the temperature represent?
The temperatures represent track temperature. Use these as a general guideline. Usually you won't go harder than blue.
 

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davz said:
The temperatures represent track temperature. Use these as a general guideline. Usually you won't go harder than blue.
Kinda like some of the touring car tires I've seen. Example: "If your track temp is XXX degrees,it would recommended that you use a XXXX compound tire". Something like that!
-George
 

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Discussion Starter #46
That's what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure!

Next question, tell me how different brush compounds effect the motor. I know that some compounds are harder than others, but under what conditions or for what effect would you use different compounds?
 

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more silver a brush has in it the faster it is (most of the time) But it also is harder on the comm and you have to cut it more!

Brooks
 

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Mike
Moving the wing back creates more rear down force,moving forward takes away rear down force..you have to move the wing at least a 1\2 inch fore or aft to feel the difference.
Typically start with the edge of the front part of the wing 1\2 inch back from the botttom of the rear window.. 3\4 inch height off the rear deck..This is super close to body mounted wings with foams..
 

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ahhh,
I have always run it pretty far back. I usually cut a little lexan out of the back of it and make the flap about even with the rear spoiler. Then make the top of the flap even with the roof height as i believe the ROAR rules require...

Thanks Koz
 

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KOZ said:
Mike
Moving the wing back creates more rear down force,moving forward takes away rear down force..you have to move the wing at least a 1\2 inch fore or aft to feel the difference.
Typically start with the edge of the front part of the wing 1\2 inch back from the botttom of the rear window.. 3\4 inch height off the rear deck..This is super close to body mounted wings with foams..
Koz- How about vertical wing position? What effect does having the wing really high off of the back-end vs. low off the back-end create?
-George
 

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I don't believe there is a rule that the wing has to be even with the roofline. It can't be attached to the body (the wing it self that is) but the height is not a rule I don't think.

How far up and how far down, how far back and how far forward, all have to do with how much air the wing is in contact with. However, too far up and you could get "lift" because of how the "flip" in the back of the wing would catch air from the "bottom".

Also, bending the wire to add angle to the wing for downforce is not a good thing. In 99.9 percent of the time it should be monted so that it rides flat.

Most of the fast guys that I have seen like to run the wing as low to the trunk lid as they can and do not use the wing for "down force" as much as they do stability from the side dams. Traction and down force are better obtained from your shock package and is much more reliable from that direction.

Wing wire is important too as well as the way the wire is used. I like it to be as firm as I can make it and not have it bounce around because the wire is too flimsy or the way it is mounted lets it move around. The little you gain weight wise by using smaller wire is just not worth it to me.

The wing is a powerful tuning tool but it can also hold you back if it is not used correctly. You don't want to use the wing to fix a handeling problem that you could do with a better chassis setup.
 

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20TN40 said:
Wow George, you are right! That is a comprehensive list and I sure thank you for supplying the information! Now do you know what the temperature readings signify on the BSR website?
From what I hear and I have seen some are running PINKS on the right side of the car as the new "John's BSR" has changed the compound from what is on the ole chart http://www.bsr-racing.com/prolite.htm . The new PINK compound falls inbetween Green's and Blue's :thumbsup:

OK,now my question,when shimming the front end do you want or have any play left over in the castor block and the top a-arm after installing the 2 shims? Should I add more shims to take this out? :confused:
 

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A very little play in the front-end parts is ok. But, if it is to a point where you have to add extra shims to take it out, it is time to spend a few bucks and get new parts.

Without having the steering blocks or kingpin installed, you should be able to hold the A arm up in it’s highest point and turn it lose and it should fall all the way down. When this happens you know everything is free and there are no binds that will interfere with the suspension movement.

Play in the pivot balls is another thing that is sometimes overlooked and will cause your front-end not to respond as it should. Smooooooth is the word to keep in mind here and it is worth the effort to take the extra time and be sure there are no binds or “scratchy” feeling in your front-end movement.
 

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George
having the wing higher say at roof line or higher will create more drag\downforce.
We run our wings pretty low and back,the side dams are a huge part on directional stability thru the turns,the wider the wing like 6.5 wide gets the side dam out closer to the edge of the body where they will be most effective with the speeds of modifieds.
 

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Hmmm
I have always heard the opposite, that mounting the wing below the roofline will create more downforce than a wing mounted equal or above the roofline.

I once had a loose car with a Pro-flo wing mounted equal to the roofline
I put a bigger wing (Bud's super wing minus the bi-level) and lowered it below the roofline and it planted the car.
 

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Would it be worth it to try & set the car up to run without the use of a wing,and then add the wing later? (Maybe use a softer setup?) I've seen people run 19t or 6-cell stock w/o a wing and/or have their wings fall off in the middle of a race and have their car handle better! Hmmm!
(Sorry,didn't mean to turn Lisa's Novice thread into a wing discussion,but IMO,this would help the novices better understand those "clear plastic things" on the backs of our oval cars! lol)
-George
 

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Irvan, in certain instances I could see where a wing would not be needed in the stock class.
At my local track, I have tried several times to run without a wing. What I have found is the car is fast but about every 6th lap or so, the car gets really wierd coming out of the turn. If you miss you line by a couple inches the wing kind of acts as a crutch and keeps the car more consistent. If you miss your line without a wing, the car gets out of shape really quickly.

I was helping a guy out at the Nationals. I timed his run without a wing in practice. There were no other cars on the track at the time. He was actually faster in practice but what he found was once he was in a heat running in traffic is tougher without a wing. The other cars can really take the air off your rear end quick and breaks you free. So that is something to consider as well.

Finally I feel running a wing enables you to run harder tires than without one.
In stock, I am the faster the harder the tires the track will allow.
 
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