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Discussion Starter #1
How about a thread where those of us just getting our feet wet really good, can ask generic type questions about car tuning, best bodies for different tracks, etc. type questions. And though I'd love to hear answers from those folks who've raced 15 years, I'd like for you to look past your sponsorship deals and stay sort of "generic" instead of plugging your sponsor. LOL

1) What is the advantage/disadvantage of running different body makes on different type tracks? For instance, I do know that HD bodies aren't the best way to go on a high banked oval track, but it seems that at BMS the body of choice is either a Monte Carlo or a Taurus, so why isn't a Dodge body good on a track like that?

2) What is the advantage/disadvantage of running a receiver pack? And I'm guessing that running a receiver pack on 1600 cells isn't a necessity, but at some point (maybe 19T) it's almost a necessity. What does a receiver pack help?

3)What is the advantage/disadvantage to ceramic bearings?

4) What is the advantage/disadvantage of flex charging your batteries? What does trickle charging do?

I'm sure I'll think of a hundred more questions, but everyone jump in.
 

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Some people run dodge at bms...i no i am as soon as bandit starts makin them...lol

Brandon_25
Team HD
SMC
Bandit Bodies
Bulit motorsports
Finishline
Kimbrough
 

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20TN40 said:
1) What is the advantage/disadvantage of running different body makes on different type tracks? For instance, I do know that HD bodies aren't the best way to go on a high banked oval track, but it seems that at BMS the body of choice is either a Monte Carlo or a Taurus, so why isn't a Dodge body good on a track like that?

2) What is the advantage/disadvantage of running a receiver pack? And I'm guessing that running a receiver pack on 1600 cells isn't a necessity, but at some point (maybe 19T) it's almost a necessity. What does a receiver pack help?

3)What is the advantage/disadvantage to ceramic bearings?

4) What is the advantage/disadvantage of flex charging your batteries? What does trickle charging do?

I'm sure I'll think of a hundred more questions, but everyone jump in.
1-
Different bodies have different downforce characteristics on different areas of the car. For me, the car just has a different "feel", and a certain body may have what your car needs to go faster with your chassis setup. Track temperature a lot of times will change the track enough where a different body may work better. If you try the different bodies with otherwise no changes, you will know what vody does what on your car.
2-
A reciever pack simply makes it so that your big battery pack doesn't have to power up the servo and reciever taking power away from the motor. For stock and 19 turn you don't need it. For mod it may give you 10-20 sec. run time extra.
3-
Ceramic bearings have less friction and don't get scored inside like the steel ones. If properly taken care of, they last a lot longer than steel.
4-
Flex charging as far as I know just reconditions old cells. I only use linear charging. For decent batteries, you wont need to bother with flex charging.

Hope this stuff helps. I have been racing for 15+ years by the way.
 

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I know when i come to BMS for the nats, i will be runnin either a protoform dodge or a Bandit ford. I dont run ceramic bearings (cant afford it) I only run ceramic diff. balls.
 

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While on the subject of bodies....

I have only run HD Montes and Taurus. The monte giving more front end bite, and the Taurus giving not really more rear end, but less front end. I would assume the Dodge is closer to the taurus as far as front to rear downforce, and the Pontiac is between the SSMonte and the Dodge, putting the bodies in this order

More Front end bite/overall downforce
Monte HD
Monte SS
Pontiac
Dodge
Taurus
Less front end bite/overall downforce

Is this information correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Brandon, why will you run Dodge? What does it do for your car? What body do you run now?

Davz, I tried running a digital servo with my 4 cell 1600 spec packs with very bad consequences. Futaba suggested that the digital servo probably puts too much of an initial hit on the 1600mah packs. So if I ran a receiver pack, would that help or will my digital servo just never work with 1600mah packs? I'd LOVE to be able to run that digital servo again, but just not with the results I had before! LOL And what does trickle charging do?

SS, why only ceramic diff balls? What do they contribute?

MobileMike, if that's a good list, I'd like to copy it. And I hate to even ask this (LOL) but do you notice a huge difference in a Ford body from one manufacturer to another? And if anyone out there has a composite list of what color springs are what (front, center and sides) I'd love to copy that too.
 

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well for one i cant afford the rest of the bearings for the car, and second the ceramic diff. balls make a super smooth diff. as long as u do the rest of the diff. building steps right, and also a good diff. never hurts a car like a bad diff. will.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That makes senseee, SS. Do you just put diff balls in the outer ring, inner ring or in every hole?
 

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Now i may be wrong here but this is the way i do it, i fill up the outside ring with balls and every other hole in the center. and someytimes u cant get the balls even in the inner ring so i just make it so it is balanced. AGAIN I MAY BE WRONG. Someone else may have a better way and if they do please share im always lookin for a way to get faster.

Tyler Stephens #70
 

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20tn40 why dont you put the receiver pack in the car and the servo and try it before the race or during the week im interested also
 

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20TN40 said:
Davz, I tried running a digital servo with my 4 cell 1600 spec packs with very bad consequences. Futaba suggested that the digital servo probably puts too much of an initial hit on the 1600mah packs. So if I ran a receiver pack, would that help or will my digital servo just never work with 1600mah packs? I'd LOVE to be able to run that digital servo again, but just not with the results I had before! LOL And what does trickle charging do?
20TN40 said:
Your Digital servo - The voltage spikes when you hit the throttle and makes the overall voltage at that moment too low for the digital servo to work.
A reciever pack will totally take care of it though. With the reciever pack the servo will run independently (off of the reciever pack) from the car's motor.
Trickle charging-
I never trickle charge. If you do, the battery pack will maybe have a little more run time, but will not be as fast. The faster you charge the pack, the higher the voltage will be in the first minute or two of racing.
 

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20TN40 said:
Davz, I tried running a digital servo with my 4 cell 1600 spec packs with very bad consequences. Futaba suggested that the digital servo probably puts too much of an initial hit on the 1600mah packs. So if I ran a receiver pack, would that help or will my digital servo just never work with 1600mah packs? I'd LOVE to be able to run that digital servo again, but just not with the results I had before! LOL And what does trickle charging do?
Your Digital servo - The voltage spikes when you hit the throttle and makes the overall voltage at that moment too low for the digital servo to work.
A reciever pack will totally take care of it though. With the reciever pack the servo will run independently (off of the reciever pack) from the car's motor.
Trickle charging-
I never trickle charge. If you do, the battery pack will maybe have a little more run time, but will not be as fast. The faster you charge the pack, the higher the voltage will be in the first minute or two of racing.
 

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I started using Ceramic bearings about a year ago in both my carpet car and my outdoor car. Best investment I have ever made the same sets are still in both cars!!! Just clean them and lube them. Even just using them for the rear axle is a benifit both speed and $$ wise. Same with the ceramic diff balls they last longer and are much smoother :) well worth the cost. If you check with RC4LESS and other on-line shops you can get a good deal! I agree with MobileMike on the the Bodys the HD MCs seem to work well on short flat tracks. I like a Taurus bod any time I run caps though , just seem to be a better balance with them ( also looks good with my Davey Allison paint jobs :thumbsup: )
Keep this thread going guys its a good one!

Later, Lee Helander :cool:
 

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SSracer6- KGB has ceramic bearings for $3,50 for rears and the best ABEC 5's for $1.25! Shipping for bearings is about $2.00, you can get away with just axel bearings for the rear. As for the diff balls, you only want to put in the outer row of the spur. For lube you only need to put some on your thumb and finger and roll the ball around then install.

www.KGBracing.com
 

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Diff Building:
I like to use only the outer ring and put the balls in groups of three, for a total of nine balls in the outer ring while there would normally be 12. So every fourth ball is missing. I am going to try every other ball in the inner ring as well.

Mike Voccola
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Flash, I wanna see pictures! My racing number is 228 for Bobby and Davey!

I will try a receiver pack and see what happens with my digital servo. Dang, I sure have missed that piece of equipment!

Gezer, why only the outside ring of the diff? Just personal preference?
 

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Hey Lisa,

If you try and use both sets of diff ball holes then you will cause drag in the diff. the more diff balls you can install on the outer edge the better off you are. PRS Spurs have 12 outer holes and we recomend you use all 12. This will help spread the load of the diff. The more balls you use the better your diff will feel. You will not need to run the diff as tight there for allowing for a much smoother diff.

I use PRS Pro-lite spurs, Niftech Rocket Rings, and RC4LESS 1/8" ceramic nitirde diff balls. I use a ceramic beraing on the inner diff and a standard bearing on the outer for the thrust. FinishLine makes a great lube and it really holds up after time. I polish my diff rings with 1500 grit (available at Walmart in the automotive section) sandpaper. Bring them to a mirror finish and install one on the axle. I then install the 1/4" x 3/8" non-flanged bearing and put the spur on. Then take and use a very small amount (half the size of a diff ball) and put it in each diff ball hole. Then install all 12 balls. The lube will keep the bals from falling out of the gear. Install the ceramic bearing, rocket ring and diff hub, and outer bearing. Put the thrust cone and nylon locknut and set the diff so the spur gear slips. I then chuck the axle in a drill and break in the diff. Hold the diff hub and pull the trigger for about 1-2 minutes. This helps spread the lube and groove the rings. Then tighten the diff just a tick and restart the drill. After the lube has thinned out then install the axle in your car and set the diff. Your spur should never ever slip. Anytime your spur slips this is a loss of HP. Always make sure you use a new outer bearing and that your diff stays nice and smooth. A crunchy or gritty diff will rob you of HP and corner speed.

I hope this helps.
 

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Tony,
Thanks for the diff building info! I recently started using the PRS pinions and spur gears, man there well machined ,great product :)
20TN40,
I,ve been running a Futaba S9650 Digital steering servo in 4-cell stock with no problems so far ( am I asking for trouble? )
Do the 3300 Batts make this possible? I,ve never ran the 1600 4-cell packs so maybe they just dont have the voltage required? Been thinking about running a receiver pack but just running stock I dont want the extra weight unless its necassary.
I just bought a McCallister 04 Taurus body ( last race night wasnt kind to my bod :lol: ) when I get it done I,ll send ya a pick or post it here.Suddenly there seems to be alot of body options showing up Bandit, McCallister,rumor of new Protoform Oval bodies. Hope this is a sign that Oval is making a comeback and or hobby is growing.
Later, Lee :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The wealth of information from you folks is just amazing! This stuff is exactly what I was trying to nudge Lin Vaughn into going forward with on his website (hint, hint Lin!) I will guarantee you that 97% of "new" racers just put the car together and head out, never thinking about how much help polishing things and "running in" things will be, me included! So Tony, use only the outer ring......then why did ya'll make an inner ring? LOL Is it just to get rid of a little weight? I forgot to tell you what Tracy said (he's been racing almost 15 years!) when I put together my PRS diff. He picked it up, spun it around and said "It out to be illegal to have a diff that smooth!" LOL We've got a fairly good collect of PRS pinions, but I'm the only one with a spur so far and I love it! Do you also leave just a teeny tiny bit of play between the spur and pinion or do you make it have a real tight mesh?

I've also read on other threads about the pains folks go to when first building a chassis. Sanding and polishing the edges and then either putting finger nail polish or some other sort of stuff on the sanded edges. What does that accomplish?

And a friend of mine recommended running a left front toe corrector. He said that it would allow you to run the chassis a little looser without losing control of the car. Does that make sense? I know there is a very fine line between loose, smooth and free to out of control.

Lee, according to Futaba and my own personal experience, running a digital servo with a 1600 spec pack is a recipe for disaster! I fooled with my car for almost a month, changing every item in the car except the servo, because I thought I was getting some of the most monsterous radio hits. I had just bought a new motor and some folks convinced me that the motor was just trash and was picking up too much noise. I tried 4 different ESC and eventually burned up two of them. Finally one night after another full week of disgusting crashes and much money spent in the hobby shop, we got to wondering about the servo. I emailed Futaba and they said that the servo puts such a high initial drain on the batteries every time you pull the trigger, that it just bottoms out the 1600 spec pack. I changed the servo (much to my disappointment) and that cured the issue. But as soon as I can get my hands on a receiver pack, I will see if I can run it that way and post the results. Can't wait to see your pics!
 
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