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Discussion Starter #1
We have posted a SB tech update (PDF) on our web site:

In some circumstances, the Smart Boost’s electronics work more efficiently when following an alternative set of instructions, instead of the method outlined in the instructions.

ALTERNATE SMART BOOST WIRING AND OPERATION METHOD
 

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Yes, what are the circumstances? I know a few guys that have cut off the switches on their ESC to avoid accidental activation of the ESC switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I asked the tech folks, yesterday at lunch, to add more info to this SB tech update. As I understand it at this time, we added a diode to the (input?) harness for a while to prevent problems from users wiggling their tires (when system was turned off) sending residual voltage back to the esc and damaging the electronics. This is when the alternate set-up is advised.

If Steve reads this thread, maybe he can clarify. I predicted that your question (and mine) would be the first comment we received on this update, and it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Steve Weiss:

In our newer ESCs we have built in saftey hardware to prevent damage from occuring to the ESC when the ESC is turned off, the battery is plugged in, and the steering servo is jostled around.

The motor in the servo created enough voltage to travel back into the ESC via the input harness and randomly turn on transistors, resulting in shorts and failures.

With the new hardware fix you may note that you need to turn on the ESC's switch then turn it off before it will power up when using a smart boost or receiver pack.

Sometimes this circuitry is "finicky" and results in inconsistant performance and that is why we recommended the alternative method where the ESC's red wire is removed completely and the ESC simply turned on.

I hope this helps clear the issue up a little bit, but being as that it's not exactly black and white that's why we said "in some circumstances"

As we get more information we will be sure to pass it along!
 
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