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I returning to RC car racing after...let's just say "a long, long, long time". The class I run in runs either brushed stock motors with 4 cells (which I'm running) or 1 cell lipo 17.5's. It's clear to me the lipo route is the way to go. The dilemma is, there's talk of running 13.5's for the Spring series. I've been told I can convert a Novak (Ballistic)17.5 to a 13.5 easily, by changing the stator. Is that true and is it only the Ballistic, or does this also apply to the SS? And I assume if I can convert, the performance will be the same as a "off the production line model"? Obviously, also, if this is true, I can go brushless now (17.5) and convert the motor later, more economically. Really hate to by a motor for only a few races. I have to buy the ESC, battery and booster or receiver pack....so if I can save a few bucks, why not. :confused:

Thanks
 

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What you've heard is true of the Novak Ballistic motors. All the stators are interchangeable in that series so you can actually run everything from I think a 3.5 to a 21.5. And yes it IS only for the Ballistic series motors as those are the only ones designed to be rebuilt this way. You can go to the Team Novak website and learn all about the Ballistic line of motors.

As a FYI to you. Most tracks run 27t/4 cell and 13.5/1C together. I think 17.5/1C would be seriously underpowered when compared to a "stock"/4 cell combo.
 

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As a FYI to you. Most tracks run 27t/4 cell and 13.5/1C together. I think 17.5/1C would be seriously underpowered when compared to a "stock"/4 cell combo.
The class he's talking about was 1600 spec packs w closed endbell mtrs, then we let them run 4200s / 4600s and they still weren't enough, almost everyone wanted to run 17.5/lipo so theres the problem. :dude:
 

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And I assume if I can convert, the performance will be the same as a "off the production line model"?
Yes, will be just like buying a NIP motor of whatever turn! That is as long as the rotor you have has not been overheated. As long as you keep the motor in temps, you will be fine.
 
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