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Discussion Starter #1
I was checking out the slot boards on HT and noticed that many guys have figured out that the wheel base on many FC's match up the AutoWorld slots cars. I would think it would make them top heavy but they seem to do just fine. I imagine the screw in base helps.

I wonder if the front screw matches up on a T-jet guide pin/chassis screw hole as well. That would make things really easy. I may have to try a couple now for running slots too.

Anybody try yet from the die-cast side?

Mark
 

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they line up?!? how is it that I'm a slothead and spend most of my time here on the slot boards and I never figured that out? i gotta get down to the basement...

Yeah, the metal bodies change the way the car runs and handles, but it's still plenty fast to be fun, especially if you set up 2 or more cars that way and race them. I've actually seen a racing series where these guys put diecast NASCAR bodies on Tyco HP7 chassis...

Another factor is that if the bodies are the right size and wheelbase, guys who do resin casting can use them as masters for homegrown resin-cast bodies, which are about the same as plastic...

--rick
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Talk about some different slot cars then!!!! Who else is going to do a Gremlin, Pacer, Chevette etc. I assume it's the AFX/Xtraction style and not the T-jets?
 

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Actually, it's easier to cast bodies for Tjets. It's a lot easier to get a screw post in the ballpark of where it has to be to line up with the chassis than it is to get body mount tabs and widths and thicknesses located and cast exactly right on the insides of the doors and rocker panels. Heck, I've gotten homegrown resin-cast cars where the screwposts were two oversize blobs, one in front and one in back, and you just Dremeled away at them till the chassis fit between them. I've also converted plastic toys to Thunderjet bodies by adding screwposts with J-B Weld or something similar, and some resin casters use that technique too.

That said, there ARE guys who cast snap-on bodies, and many of them are quite good... I got a new Mustang for Tyco 440 wide chassis from Bad Dog or Mad Dog or someone, I forget the name, and it's VERY well done. The guy had a whole line of bodies for 440s, apparently using Matchbox diecasts for masters...

--rick
 

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UPDATE on Fresh Cherries as slot car bodies...

Okay, I finally had a few free minutes, so I grabbed all the Fresh Cherries cars I had and a handful of slot car chassis and started comparing. Here's what I found:

ALL the Fresh Cherries cars, even the Chevette, are too long for standard Aurora Tjet chassis. The JL and Auto World Tjets, however, have a slightly longer wheelbase than the Auroras, and the Chevette lines up just about perfectly with the JL/AW chassis in long wheelbase position. The Pinto and Mustang II will also work with this chassis, but they are slightly longer and the wheelwells might need to be modified a little.

I looked at common Tyco chassis, and I think this is probably what people are using if they are converting FC diecasts... The short wheelbase position of Tyco chassis is exactly the same as the long wheelbase of the JL/AW Tjets. The Chevette, Pinto, and Mustang II will work with Tyco short wheelbase, and the Hornet, Maverick, '71 Mustang, and Pacer will work with Tyco long wheelbase. The Hornet is a little bit TOO long, and the Pacer a little too short, but they can both be made to work. The Maverick and '71 Mustang are dead-on. The chassis that use these wheelbases are the Magnum 440 and 440X2, the HP7, and the HP2. I think these would be a blast on HP2 or HP7 chassis, as they are not quite as fast as the 440s and slide around more...

Upon actually unscrewing the diecast bases and fitting them over the slot car chassis, I made another discovery: the bodies are too narrow, meaning they'd have to be "spread" to fit over the slot car chassis mounting tabs...

--rick
 
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