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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After extensive, slow, yet patient work in Adobe Illustrator, I've finally finished the Impulse Engine grille decals to be used with the DLM/Penndragon replacement part.

The decals on the attached pdf offer several options - for clarity, let me define/label some parts: the grille, let's call area A; the majority of the area behind the grille (in between the lines) let's call area B; the inner/smaller/lighter trapezoid shape in the middle of each engine, let's call area C. ------

Option 1: (to be used for unlit engines)
A - black
B - dark gray
C - light gray

Option 2: to be used for lit engines
A - black
B - clear
C - clear

Option 3: for lit engines with more accurate lighting effect
A - black
B - dark gray
C - clear

Option 4: for lit engines with more accurate lighting effect
A - black
B - light gray
C - clear

All options are presented in both pure black (K 100%) or rich black (C 40%, M 40%, Y 0%, K 100%). Which one you use will depend on the quality of your printer (since less accurate or out-of-calibration printers will let the colors on the rich black shift too much). I can modify the tones or add colors upon request if need be (such as change the levels of gray etc).

These graphics are vector based (not raster) in order that the detail would be the highest quality, no matter how far you zoom in. I suggest that you do not import the pdf into an image editing program where it woulld then be converted to raster (pixels). Try to print directly from acrobat reader or pro to maintain image quality - better than any photoetched brass.

These decals will fit into the DLM/Penndragon impulse replacement part. I plan on further modifying the part to the point where I will need to recreate the graphics for myself (the upside-down trapezoid in between the engines is too rectangular on the DLM part - should be wider up top and narrower down below - there are other innacuracies with the part that won't affect the area covered by the decal).

Enjoy!
 

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I sense some how that the part and art crafted by Pendagon and produced by me and a follow on PE set option made by MMI has let you down. WTF??? :confused:

Just asking
DLM
 

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Discussion Starter #5
DL Matthys said:
I sense some how that the part and art crafted by Pendagon and produced by me and a follow on PE set option made by MMI has let you down. WTF??? :confused:

Just asking
DLM

Sorry - didn't mean to discredit anybody - I really appreciate and respect the work that everybody contributes to this model with aftermarket stuff and I would reccommend the DLM Impulse (actually, ALL of the DLM refit accurizing parts) to everyone. It boggles my mind that people have put the model together without it.
That being said, there is some tweaking that can be done....

http://andy.grams.googlepages.com/storage

go to the above link. I put the pdf's on a storage page as they are too large to post on the forums, and I wanted to keep them pdf so you could see with clarity. (Please look at them... I spent a heck of a long time today pulling everything together and drawing in Adobe Illustrator)

(1) Impulse Engine Comparison:
this shows studio model photos compared to pics I took of the DLM part, and corresponding wireframe drawings I overlaid in Illustrator. Should be obvious, but original is blue lines, DLM is red lines.

Here's a key to help understand what's going on:
-I've ignored panel detail for the sake of clarity
-Various blue colors: corresponding flat surfaces - top(light), face(sky), underside(dark)
-Black: the vertical plane where, as you can see on the original miniature, is painted black (along with everything that's on the inner-sides of the engine "frame")
-Orange: anything orange denotes a rounded/curved surface.

Things to look for:
-The DLM part has no curved/rounded surfaces (and the PL kit topside is sharp-edged as well)
-The DLM part is more rectangular than trapezoidal (note sky blue surface)
-The DLM part juts out in the middle too far (see pics at bottom of pdf)
-The original has LOTS of rounded edges... sometimes barely noticeable.

(2)Impulse Grille Comparison
this shows the MMI PE set (top), the DLM decal (middle), and the graphics I created in Illustrator (bottom). Also in the upper right there are a couple of extreme close ups of some of the studio model grille detail.
When you look at the closeup detail (studio), you can clearly see that there is nothing consistent with the ending edges of the grille openings... some are square edged, some are triangle, some a combination... and the line thickness varies (thinner/tighter near top and bottom). I'm not sure if it's even possible to have photoetched brass with that kind of detail. My solution to the issue was to literally trace with vector/wireframe over really high res pic of the grilles and then skew & shear to compensate for photographic angles/distortions. The result is detail that maintains integrity no matter how much you enlarge it (provided you don't rasterize it!)

But enough of my yappin, check out the 2 pdf's (from the above link) and you (universal "you") be the judge.
 

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Originally Posted by DL Matthys
I sense some how that the part and art crafted by Pendagon and produced by me and a follow on PE set option made by MMI has let you down. WTF???

Just asking
DLM

My skill here does not rank with most of the people here BUT DLM .. I think i'd agree with you WTF ?? guess you can't please everyone.You and Pendagon do Excellent work.
 

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Gunstar1 said:
But enough of my yappin, check out the 2 pdf's (from the above link) and you (universal "you") be the judge.
You appear to have a point!

Do you think the idea of the graphic lines getting thinner at the top and bottom of the engine is supposed to make the flat graphic appear to be curved (away and in to the engine at the top and bottom)?

The DLM stuff is better than the kit supplied parts though.
(I have bought from DLM in the past and will do so in the future)

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you read my whole post (the one with the pdf's) I CLEARLY ENDORSE DLM ACCURIZING PARTS!!!! I'm just taking it a step further for detail crazed enthusiasts. The Impulse Grille discussion has been going on for a while in the inaccuracies thread. Go there for more visual aid if you need it - as for why it does what it does visually, when it comes down to it, it's all a matter of opinion. The idea of a "curved illusion" is a valid point I think. The shape of the area between the two engines is a new topic though, and I'd love to see how others think of that inaccuracy and what they would do to fix it. Or vent their anger at me for doing this - either works.

Oh, and once again, EVERYBODY BUY DLM! :thumbsup:
 

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Oh well, I'm on your side, but there is not much point endorsing an accurizing part (and associated expense) if it isn't accurate. But then anything is a thousand times better than the kit part, which is truly hopeless and cannot be reworked.
 

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But enough of my yappin, check out the 2 pdf's (from the above link) and you (universal "you") be the judge.
Judge indeed.

Some great research has been done there. Thanks for the information.
 

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Unfortunately, my PE parts for the DLM part do not align very well. I have some gaps on the inside tracks. Nothing to major to correct, but not perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You mean the MMI part for the DLM engines? Did you try and print the decals/graphics that I'm providing?
 

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Yes, the MMI PE parts. I have not tried your graphics yet as I really like the look of the PE parts. You've got some great stuff there though :)


Edit :)
Call me stupid, but I am a bit confused by your graphics set. If I want the best representation for lighting, which set am I choosing? Is your first post instructions on how to set up the page for printing?
 

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There's nothing wrong with other choices....I don't think there's cause for alarm here. I have plenty of MMI and DLM stuff here at home and there's room for more....

Bring on more choices and research!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The only way to know what is best for lighting is to see how each of them look with whatever particular light source you will be using - that's why I said if you need the grays darker or lighter, I could custom adapt that for you. One decal is meant to be unlit, and the rest are variations on opacity/intensity of the 2 tones behind the grille. I haven't tested how they look with light behind (I'm not lighting mine, so I don't have any LED's lying around to try it with)
 

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Gunstar1 said:
The only way to know what is best for lighting is to see how each of them look with whatever particular light source you will be using - that's why I said if you need the grays darker or lighter, I could custom adapt that for you. One decal is meant to be unlit, and the rest are variations on opacity/intensity of the 2 tones behind the grille. I haven't tested how they look with light behind (I'm not lighting mine, so I don't have any LED's lying around to try it with)
Oh....sorry, your instructions in your first post contained option sets for lighting. I thought you had tested these variations with your own light tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All the "versions" are present in the pdf - if someone prints it, tests it, and doesn't like how any of the options interact with light, I could modify the gray levels.
 

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That is an extremely cool piece of work. I'm looking at my own photoetch from 13 mos ago and it just isn't the quality of this. But then I didn't do anywhere near the research you've put into this, either. I esp like the options you've provided. Tho I'm scratching another new impulse unit based on your research and the Kerr cross section I've still downloaded your decal because even if it probably won't fit my scratch, anything this good I can make work. Thanks so much for sharing this. You're what makes these boards so invaluable.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Starseeker!
It's people like you and Mark that have inspired me to really put the time and effort into it.

Actually, what you could do is once you are done putting your scratchbuilt piece together, make a mask of both left and right engines, place on graph paper, scan it (high quality), send it to me, and I'll adjust the graphic to fit your specific engines. I will be doing the same for when I modify my DLM piece (or maybe build my own....). I did this for Mark as well. It's a quick fix (but needs to be done in Illustrator CS2), Let me know when you finish your engine build!
 
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