[phil614]

Hello Everyone!
I just received my new KSXT KSK-B "Spec" SK kit today and looking for a good starting baseline setup for the new AMain Raceways in Vernon CT! The track is new with brand new CRC carpet and will be a large flat track. Im looking for the following:

Front End;
"Wide" or "Narrow"
Should I use the included 10L5 front end or use my Hyperdrive A-Arm adjustables with the long Wolfe king pins and which springs?

T-Plate
Use the stock fiberglass or I can use my med or firm spring steel?

Which center "shock" position should I start with?

Rear End:
Should I use the "long" right rear hub or stock?

I'll be running the "Spec" class 17.5 with the Spec tires; Black fronts and White Rears. Also how much stagger and "rake" in MM should I be looking for?

I'll be running the new Aero 1 body.


I know this is a lot to ask for but I'm looking for a good basic starting point
so I can more fun running on this new incredible track and less time chasing the setup!

Thanx in advance!:thumbsup:

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

Phil,
Front end will depend on what rules they are going to use. SKAR rules doesn't allow you to run the Associated R5 front end.
Run in the narrow position.
Med or soft spring steel.
Center shock mount closest to the T-Plate.
Long right rear hub.
Stagger none to start and adjust as needed
Rake front to back 1mm lower in front.
Left to right in front, right front 1/2 higher adjust to add or remove steering.
The side damper tube is going to be one of the biggest adjustments to the car, to soft and the car is lazy, to stiff and car wants to slide and lift the left rear. I'd start with somthing like number 3 windtunnel lube.
See you at the track soon

 

[phil614]

Thanx Mike! For the info; looking forward to start racing again!:thumbsup: I was planning on using their front end that was supplied. But with the Hyperdrive aluminum A arm mounts.; with the right front one hole lower than the left. Paul S says that helps with camber gain as the car goes into the corner. Also I was planning to use the Wolfe long king pins with a Red on the LF and a Green on the RF. Thats what I was using with the Coupe. Im sure that that chassis will handle much better than what we were running previously. I have a battery question; when we were running the Coupes on Wednesdays; we were using a 5000Mah 25C "Spec pack"; now they want us to run a 4000Mah SMC pack; any thoughts; wanted to know how long these packs stay "good" before they should be replaced. Thanx again Mike!

 

[phil614]

I almost forgot.....on the Tplate. Which brand? Also should I run offset or not??
and I need a receiver pack for my Tekin R5 speedo; I thought CRC made a nice one with a built in switch but couldnt find one on their site. If I have to make one; how do I go about making one with what and how many batts?

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

Aluminum castor blocks, long king pins, etc, that stuff is fine. I thought you ment the Associated R5 front end, that is not legal. Run ofset T-Plate, ORC makes nice spring steel T-Plates. I have no idea on the spec batteries how long they will last, never ran them before. I would think the lower the quality battery the fewer runs you will get before needing to be replaced. I would just run two red front springs or .018

 

[Larry B]

Left to right in front, right front 1/2 higher adjust to add or remove steering.

Mike, could you explain more on the above statement. Which way adds more steering? Also is that 1/2 a mm?

Thanks

 

[KSGpancar]

I've got a question too...you're saying to use an ORC t-plate. They don't have holes for tweak screws. So basically run no tweak screws, (no side spring) and adjust wedge with the front end? Or did I miss something?

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

Larry, yes 1/2 mm higher on the right front. Higher the right front the less steering, lower more steering to a point.

KSGpancar, you will need to also run the small tweak plates some companies make them, but they are getting harder to find. Simple part to make, if you can't find one, 1/16 fiberglass works great. They bolt to the bottom of the spring steel T-Plates with the screws holding the front pivot ball assembly.

 

[KSGpancar]

Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks.

 

[BADDOG17]

Narrow front end?

I assume you mean to mount your lower A-Arm in the inside set of holes?

Also when you do that what do you use for steering tie rods? 12th scale?

Also the rear end you say offset t-plate, Offset t-plate with pod in offset positon on the bottom plate?

 

[THE DARKSIDE]

Larry, yes 1/2 mm higher on the right front. Higher the right front the less steering, lower more steering to a point.

KSGpancar, you will need to also run the small tweak plates some companies make them, but they are getting harder to find. Simple part to make, if you can't find one, 1/16 fiberglass works great. They bolt to the bottom of the spring steel T-Plates with the screws holding the front pivot ball assembly.

I still have a couple of similar ones in stock, you'll need to e-mail me though, no longer on the KSK site. eric[email protected]

-E

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

BADDOG17, I thoght the wide right rear hub would indicate to everyone to also use offset pod. The wide front end holes were meant for the few banked tracks they ran on. For tie-rods i use the same length, 1/10 scale. But this has more to do with what ball cups your using. If your running dubro stlye or long RPM ones, the tie-rods may need to be shorter.

 

[BADDOG17]

BADDOG17, I thoght the wide right rear hub would indicate to everyone to also use offset pod. The wide front end holes were meant for the few banked tracks they ran on. For tie-rods i use the same length, 1/10 scale. But this has more to do with what ball cups your using. If your running dubro stlye or long RPM ones, the tie-rods may need to be shorter.

My old KSG (gen 2) car I could use a standard t-plate with the pod mounted straight up and move the whole pod assmebly over to offset. I do understand what your doing with an offset t-plate.

The front end looked very narrow but I can deal with it.

Thanks for the info.

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

BADDOG17, What you just descibed is referred to as offset pod, offset T-plate.

 

[Larry B]

BADDOG17, What you just descibed is referred to as offset pod, offset T-plate.

Mike, thanks for your help... you are talking about mounting the on center Tplate in the center holes on the chassis and the T plate mounted in the offset holes on the pod or mounting both in offset? I have been looking for a soft concentric spring steel this week. I have looked at ORC, lefthander and others and have not been able to find one (only super-soft) .

 

[MIKE VALENTINE]

Both T-Plate and Pod set in the offset position related to the chassis. Super soft T-plate will also work.