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hELLO, EVERYONE - i need help, HAVE 1 TYCO 440X2 , TRYING TO DISAMBLE CHASSIS, DON'T WANT TO BREAK ANYTHING. dOES ANTONE HAVE ACCES TO DISAMBLY DIAGRAM, VIDEO , ETC., WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED . THANKS UP FRONT, ANTHONY

WANTING TO CHANGE TRAC. MAGNETS , AND GENERAL KNOW HOW ON FUTURE MODS TO THIS CHASSIS...:wave:
 

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Here's what worked for me:
-take off pickup shoes and rear axle
-turn the chassis upside down
-grab the body mounting tabs with your thumbs and the top side of the chassis with your index fingers
-gently pull apart
-push motor/magnets up with middle finger (everything passes through the bottom side of the chassis)
-the brush tubes should stat attached to the front bulkhead so you don't loose brushes & springs
 

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Here's what worked for me:
-take off pickup shoes and rear axle
-turn the chassis upside down
-grab the body mounting tabs with your thumbs and the top side of the chassis with your index fingers
-gently pull apart
-push motor/magnets up with middle finger (everything passes through the bottom side of the chassis)
-the brush tubes should stat attached to the front bulkhead so you don't loose brushes & springs
Exactly... some things to note are to watch for the pickup springs that are now loose on the brush tubes and don't lose them.
The traction magnets will stay with the chassis... just set the entire remaining chassis off to the side.

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com
 

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OK things probably will go flying
maybe some spare Mattel chassis for parts (through away the tires)

http://www.hcslots.com/tipstricks/highdfvslowdf.html
Neo Traction Magnets for Tyco 440x2 Chassis - $3.99 pair
With some practice and removing rear axle you can change Traction Magnets
Part #BSRT "Ceramic-Grade" Bonded Magnets
272 BSRT T2™ / Tyco 440-X2 "Ceramic-Grade" Bonded Traction Magnets (pair)
 

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Thread From The Dead...

Here's what worked for me:
-take off pickup shoes and rear axle
-turn the chassis upside down
-grab the body mounting tabs with your thumbs and the top side of the chassis with your index fingers
-gently pull apart
-push motor/magnets up with middle finger (everything passes through the bottom side of the chassis)
-the brush tubes should stat attached to the front bulkhead so you don't loose brushes & springs
Hey, I know this is a way old thread, but I wanted to throw a "thank you" out there to beast1624. I've always been more of a pancake motor kind of guy, but I have loads of inlines because they're what turns up at yard sales and flea markets. I can tear apart an HP7 or other can motor car, but taking apart a 440 always seemed to involve black magic voodoo stuff because there's seemingly nothing holding the motor together, so I was always afraid to try.

Now today I got a nice 440x2 NASCAR that seemed to be all there but not running. I really wanted to use that chassis because the wheels are color matched and I don't have many extra wide Tycos lying around, though I have loads of narrow ones. All I could figure was that there was a problem with the brushes or the armature. I decided to get over my fear of 440s and make it run. I found a running junk narrow chassis that was cracked at the front axle and tried snapping the motor out as beast described above. Piece of cake. It was a little harder getting that assembly snapped into the wide chassis, and I ruined a brush spring in the process, but I learned something new. Thanks for the step-by-step!

--rick
 

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Always pleases me to stumble on an older but still relevant thread that has been bumped. I bought my first 440X2 not long ago and wasn't sure how to break it down..... now I know. Thanks for all the info guys.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:
 

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Help with 440x2

I have renewed my interest in HO slot car racing and have a bunch of 440x2's. I too was reluctant to take one of them apart but recently I dismantled a chassis and changed brushes, springs and added two more pick-up shoe springs that someone suggested at a slot car show I went to. The motor performance was enhanced but the handling went away - de-slotting in the turns. Are the extra pick-up springs the problem?Too much pressure being applied to the shoes?
 

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Buy your Mattel chassis direct from Mattel, not someone charging 2x what they cost
https://store.mattel.com/transition.aspx?cmd=new&transitionid=103
click on the country, select hotwheels, second row in the middle are the HPx2's for $4
And if you think about buying the resin encased NEO traction mags from there DON'T, I will send you a set free since I was the original designer of these
 

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Here is some pics I did years ago on taking a Tyco apart
Remove rear axle and pickup shoes


Pull the chassis slightly apart


Now remove the motor assemble careful not to lose the shoe springs


Carefully remove the brush tubes, brush and brush spring are in this


Don"t lose the small parts


Now remove the pinion gear, then the magnets , and last the bulkheads from the armature and you end up with this pile of parts, reverse order to re assemble
 

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Best tip I can offer is use a Cake pan/Lasagna dish to work in. The parts will not get lost near as easy doing it this way.
HTH
Keith
 

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I was just looking for an easy way to change pickup shoes on 440x2 cars? This popped up. I Have relatively small hands, but feel like all thumbs trying to put these things on
 

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If you are reassembling a 440X2 chassis it is easy to mangle a pickup spring, it might be easier if you leave off the shoe springs. Once you get the magnets/armature/bulkheads back into the chassis you can pry the chassis away from the front bulkhead on one side and hook a spring on the brush barrel. Repeat for the other side.
Replacing the shoes can be a little messy. First be sure that the spring is all the way towards the middle of the car. Hook the shoe on to the brush barrel, then move the shoe so the spring is hooked in place. Now hook the front end of the shoe on the chassis, make sure that it is still all the way on the brush barrel, you may have to push it back with a small screwdriver. The coils of the spring should not be caught under the shoe.
 

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hooking the back of the shoe over the brush barrel can be a challenge while trying to keep the pickup shoe spring correctly located under the shoe.
it can be managed by placing the shoe in position and then put the spring under the shoe with a tweezer.
 

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Take a small jewlers straight slot and file/grind a small notch in it. Works great for positioning the pickup spring tab under the pickup. I haven't build or messed with a 440 in a long time. I always had one in my pocket.
 

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Take a small jewlers straight slot and file/grind a small notch in it. Works great for positioning the pickup spring tab under the pickup. I haven't build or messed with a 440 in a long time. I always had one in my pocket.
an Exacto; long/skinny blade (on a handle of course..).....
great tool 4 all-thumbs, arthritic & shaky-handed sloters :thumbsup:

Bubba 123 :wave:
 
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