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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm at it again, I got this AMT/Ertl kit in the mail a couple of weeks ago, I've ordered decals from the Federation Models web site and now I'm off on a building nightmare. I've started a web site for the project it's
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
So to get it up to speed I've filed off the shingle like areas along the outer edge of the saucer and hull (these will be replaced with .010 x .040 strip styrene later on during the painting phase). The depressions left by the cast windows and a few lines need to be filled in and sanded. Right now I'm assembling one of the warp engine nacelles and after I've made some repairs there I'll start painting and figuring out the AZtec pattern for it. Last this kit will not be painted to look like the movie version, I want to keep my fleet looking alike so the Reliant will be painted with Dark Ghost Gray followed with Light Ghost Gray when I do the Aztec work. Will it look okay, guess we'll all find out when I get to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Warp Drive Nacelles

Finally got the two of these assembled and the rough spots cleaned up. Ran into several problems putting them together. Edges that did not line up, areas that were warped and on one drive when the front was joined together the back end was 1/2 inch apart with the sections going different directions??? But several curses later, a 1/4 tube of green putty and several pieces of 360 grit sandpaper, not to mention my fingers looking like prunes after wet sanding all of the green putty off there done. Also the rear of the drives the small fins were misshaped I repaired these by filing them down to a flat appearance instead of the curved way they were. Now I can apply some paint tonight, and I don't even want to talk about the pylons that attach the drives to the hull, what a mess they are there goes the rest of my tube of putty. new photo can be seen at
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Paint problem

Air brushed the drive nacelles yesterday afternoon, then when they were dry I went to check them. The paint had dried to a rough texture and also some of it rubbed off like dust??? Cleaned off the loose stuff, gave the nacells a light wet sanding on the rough spots and will try again tonight after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just plain gray primer, I'm thinking it was the thinner I tried some off the shelf stuff, not the model masters thinner I used on my Enterprise kit,
 

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There is a White sandable (wet/dry) primer made by Rustoleum called Painter's Choice. I've used that with very good results. But only use the White. I've tried the grey and it did some real funky things to both Acrylic and Enamel based airbrushed paints. As far as the White primer, I have airbrushed over that using MM Acrylic (H20 based) and enamels with no problem at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Engines and pylons

After a week of slow work I have cleaned up the warp engine housings, filled a couple of missed gaps in the intercooler panels, after all that I decided to go ahead and install the mounting pylons to the drive nacelles. After they were in place and the ACC dried. I spread some Green Squadron Putty along the joint lines of the pylons, along one of the joints where the pylon attaches to the drive nacelle I had a gap. So here I tried that new way of filling gaps without sanding that I saw posted here. I spread some putty along the joint line then using some Q-tips dipped in Cutex nail polish remover I smoothed the putty into place, and last a quick wipe with a clean Q-tip to clean the area and it was finished, nice joint line almost no sanding it just needs a small and light brushing in one spot. The pylons still need to be wet sanded but I hope to paint this weekend and start adding the Aztec grids, there is a new photo of the nacelle under destruction on my site:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 

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I am very interested in learning how you align and attach the pilons to the saucer section. I have a reliant model as well and there are no guide pins, grooves or anything to insure proper alignment. Can you share what you did when you reach this step?
 

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Ah so you air brushed the primer on? The thinner could be the problem. I have been using Krylon sandable primer and I think it works way better then the testors primer. The finish is a lot smoother and the paint seems to stick alot better to it.

John
 

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ShotgunLebowski said:
Ah so you air brushed the primer on? The thinner could be the problem. I have been using Krylon sandable primer and I think it works way better then the testors primer. The finish is a lot smoother and the paint seems to stick alot better to it.

John
Does Krylon make a primer for air brushes? If not, are you using can spray or brush on primer?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nacelle alignment

Old_McDonald said:
I am very interested in learning how you align and attach the pilons to the saucer section. I have a reliant model as well and there are no guide pins, grooves or anything to insure proper alignment. Can you share what you did when you reach this step?
There are two mounting pins on the top pylon piece that go into the saucer section, but the way I'm going to assemble this kit I broke these off because I assembled the whole unit for painting. I'll be using the small triagular nub that sticks out the side of the saucer as my locating point for the rear of the pylon, the rest will be by line of sight and some brackest made up to hold the saucer and nacelle in place level with one another. But I'll put up a pic or two when I do that
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Paint Fix

The nacelles are painted with their first color and the paint problem has been fixed, guess it was switching from Model Master thinner to an off the shelf brand, when I applied the next coat to cover the repairs and to paint the new parts added it went on smooth, with no other problems. Next project will be applying the Aztec panels to the drives and pylons :freak: , then finish painting the side details intercooler and rear fin area. Last I also yesterday cemented the saucer sections together so after I finish removing all the shingle like side details, I can start removing the areas along the joint line that stick out. I have to get these areas cleaned up so I can start applying the styrene strips for the sensor bands that were so badly done in the molding process. If this idea works the side area of the saucer will look great, but if it flops....I'll never tell.... My motto, better modeling one screw up at a time. new PIC on the web site (not much to look at)
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Saucer work

I've finished removing all the shingle type molding on the hull, then I went back with an X-acto knife and spread on Green Squadron Putty like peanut butter then used the blade to scrape a smooth surface. After it dried I wet sanded the areas smooth next up is start applying some of the styrene strips. New photo at http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 

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Looking very good Rob. Are you planning to replace or modify the B/C decks? Those always bothered me. I was going to modify them but then DLM came out with a replacement part. Saved me a lot of time and aggravation.
 

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Robert,
For those of us who have been out of the hobby for many years, thanks for the progress photos and reports on you Reliant build-up. I am a visual type of guy (due to the fact that I am the chief photographer at a three newspaper publishing group in Southern California) and your images help a great deal. If the internet was around when I was in the hobby I might never have gotten out!

Thanks again
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
B & C Deck

Capt. Krik said:
Looking very good Rob. Are you planning to replace or modify the B/C decks? Those always bothered me. I was going to modify them but then DLM came out with a replacement part. Saved me a lot of time and aggravation.
I'm planing on just making a modification or two to make it look better, wife will skin me if I order any more parts for this kit, have ordered a nice set of the brass Aztec templates to use for this and other projects, then got the JT Graphics decal set also got the Saratoga set for another reliant kit I have stashed away, then add a gallon or two of paint, and don't forgot the 2 NX-01's I have on the side lines waiting to be built if my Aztec works turns out good enough. To get her mind off my hobby spending I bought her a round trip ticket to Michigan to go see the Grandson, that made her happy. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hull Sensor Bands

I've started installing the saucer Sensor Bands using strip styrene .010 X .040 for the top and bottom of the bands. I had to make a small change that will cause me to change the 3 interior bands to .020 or maybe .030 in width to get a good spacing. I posted a photo to the web site but I'm having trouble getting a good shot of the work with it being white on white.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sensor & hull bands

Have finally finished the top and bottom sensor bands around the saucer, and down the side of the hull. Also I have installed styrene strips up the side of the main hull for the shingle type of effect, but it's not the same, but I'll take it. Ran into a space problem on the saucer rim when I lowered the top styrene strip to keep from having to fill a gap along the rim with putty. Now instead of 5 bands I'm only going to have 4 (yeah I know I could have avoided this if I'd got the Federation Models side repair kit. But I like doing things the hard way, and I have a ton of things to do yet. Drill out and build up the docking port behind the bridge, make new doors for the hanger bays, install the ring around the top of B deck and a few other touchups. I have also come to the conclusion I'm more a hacker that a true modeler
Can't wait till I get some paint on this problem child so the photos come out better new shot at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
 
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