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Hello all. Mike here. Here is my version of the refit Enterprise. Took me almost three weeks. Turned out FAR more better than my first attempt. This is also my first attempt at lighting the kit. I welcome any criticism and input because I am going to build up the 1701-A here soon and would like to do a better job. Thanks in advance everyone. Any questions, feel free to ask. Here is a link of pics from the build.



http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m202/zenomorp/
 

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Nice job! I am in the planning stages of my Refit (which means I'm staring at it!). How many LEDs did you use and what is the power source? I have not decided on whether to use LEDs or CCF tubes for the majority of the lighting.
 

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I used 14 3mm white LED's for the saucer, running, and strobes. 11 5mm white LED's for the bride dome, lower planetary sensor, interior hull, and outer flux chillers. 2 3mm red, 2 3mm green, and 4 3mm amber LED's for the strobe/running lights. 8 5mm 2600MCD Blue LED's for the nacelles. The power sources are 6V 800ma for the stobe/flashers, and 12V 800ma for the suacer, hull, and nacelle lights. I ran a copper tube through the bottom hull and base to house the wires and the power jacks are located and back of the base of the stand. The pics do not do this build up justice yet I want to build up a better version when I get time to do the 1701-A. You can get all these LED's at www.digi-key.com
 

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Thanks. I already have the LEDs. I just have to determine a power source and then the proper resistors. I see you are using an adjutable wall wart. I saw the same thing at Radio Shack, 3-12v and either 800 or 1000mah. My current LED count is about 117 total. This is just a rough estimate at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How many circuits are you planning on using? You can purchase a board at Radio Shack and apply many different circuits. The type and amount of resistors that you need depends on how many circuits you have and how bright you want the lights to be and how many lights you are going to use. You can also install some caps and pots in the circuit to adjust the levels and flashing rates of your lights. There are many different variables.
 

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I was planning on just two to keep it simple. One for the interior, spot, and engine lights and then a second for the flashing beacons.
 

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I had actualy thought of using a 9v battery to power the flashing beacons. In my Martian War Machine I have ten LEDs running from a 9v battery. How many lights actualy flash on the ship, 6-8? It would save from buying a $30 wall wart to power a few lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually, 14 lights flash all together. (2 white forward saucer, 2 red port saucer, 2 green stbd saucer, 1 amber aft bridge dome, 2 amber on either side of top impulse reactor, 1 white on the underside of lower hull, 1 white underneath the fantail, 1 amber above hanger bay doors, and 2 white on the aft ends of the warp nacelles. 14 total) I recently seperated from the Navy after 6 years and slapped this model together while I was home on seperation leave.
 

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O.K. then, maybe I will go your route and do two plug ins! Anyway, great job on this! Thanks for the replies, youve answered a lot of my questions. Thanks.
 

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Thanks DLM. I know I need work on my seams. I can't figure out a way to assemble the model, seal the cracks and seams, and then paint it without painting over the windows or other clear parts, so I have to settle for seams. My light leaks are negligible. From all the pics I've seen and watching the movies, the amber strobes I used appeared to be accurate. If they are supposed to be white, then I will make the change when I do my next build but they always looked amber to me. The shuttlecraft come as part of the kit. You can create two different ones.
 

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I think you did a real good job :)
Your next build will only be better, and you will have gained some real good experience.

zenomorp said:
I can't figure out a way to assemble the model, seal the cracks and seams, and then paint it without painting over the windows or other clear parts, so I have to settle for seams.
Krako already recommended the Aztec Dummies templates. They do come with window masks. As far as the seams go, you can assemble the kit in sections. Fill in all seams before painting.

the amber strobes I used appeared to be accurate. If they are supposed to be white, then I will make the change when I do my next build but they always looked amber to me.
Lights and their colors:

TOP/BTM PRIMARY HULL
Starboard-Green
Port-Red
Bow White

TOP PRIMARY HULL
Flanking impulse engines-white

NACELLES
Aft end-White (strobes)

SECONDARY HULL
Above shuttle bay- White
Below shuttle bay-white
under side, middle of phaser quad-White (strobe)

BRIDGE
Top of bridge-White (Strobe)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Raist! I could sure use your help in gaining the detail and correct colors that you have seemed to aquire so easily. The level of accuracy on your refit is unbelievable. I have been trying to get the right colors based on looking at the pics of the studio model, but I can never seem to get them right. Is there a list floating around out there that tells the correct colors to use and where they go, because every version of the refit that I have seen on here, everyone has the correct colors, I can't seem to get mine to come out right.

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/Raist3001/?action=view&current=P1010206.jpg

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b391/Raist3001/?action=view&current=P1010187.jpg

As you can see from mine, I have the basic idea of design on these pieces, but my detail is quite lacking. My colors are also way off.
 

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Nice work on your Refit zenomorp

As for Tonys Refit... you know... its not his first... will not be his last ... it takes a few attempts before you get her right ;)
 

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zenomorp said:
Thanks Raist!
Your quite welcome :)

I could sure use your help in gaining the detail and correct colors that you have seemed to aquire so easily. The level of accuracy on your refit is unbelievable.
Thank you for your kind words. I would be more than happy to help you in any way I can. Believe me though, choosing my colors did not come easy. I searched long for specific blues I was happy with and even longer discovering a good mix ratio. Many of the techniques I used was shared with me from the many good folks that can be found here. Without their help, I am not sure what kind of model I may have turned out.

Don't try to hard in looking to match the colors in the photos. I gave up on that long ago and settled on just creating a mix that looked accurate and more importantly, was subtle.
 
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