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A. Because noisy motors are distracting, clunky, and kinda destroy the scale illusion of a fictional starship.

B. Quieting the motors is a distinct modeling challenge, and I'm giving this build my all! No half-measures!
Easy solution.......


Turn the volume up when you play your TOS Trek sound tracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #423
Another solution is to build a case for it that completely surrounds it.... and cuts down on the motor noise by large amounts (thicker the case, more sound dampening there is :D
How did you build yours, anyway? Would building a case be easier/cheaper than having a pre-built one shipped to me?
 

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How did you build yours, anyway? Would building a case be easier/cheaper than having a pre-built one shipped to me?
Mine is made of 1/8" Plexi, 36" x 16". Obviously need to adjust size based on how big your display is when you factor in thickness of the size pieces, etc (I didn't do that so had to trim my long pieces a bit).

I got my sheets from http://www.professionalplastics.com . I have used them before for other things, pretty quick, good prices, and I can pick up locally :) All together for 3 16"x16" and 4 36"x16" pieces, it ran me about $55.

As far as making it goes, regular old glue won't cut it, need to use acrylic solvent, which will fuse the pieces together. Because it is a solvent, also have to be careful to ONLY get it where you want it because it will marr the plexi (learned this the hard way). Thicker sheets are easier to join than thin sheets, but also more $$$. The solvents ran about $20 together.

I used Weld-On 4, which is a water thin solvent, sets in 3 minutes, evaporates very quickly. Apply with a syringe applicator to the joint, and let it do its magic. It has to be smooth edges for the strongest seam, it doesn't fill gaps or rough edges at all.

if you do have rough edges (which I did from trimming my sides), you can use Weld-On 16, which is a much thicker solvent, but can fill in the imperfections. Again, only put it where you want it, as it will marr the plexi.

After my first seam, I learned that if I tape the edges from the outside, and glue the inside, it will not have any solvent leak out and cause problems. Also helps to hold the parts together, but I also used corner clamps and some old UPS batteries to hold the edges in place.

Take it slow, google some videos on how to do it, and order some extra pieces to practice on first. :)
 

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I wonder how much a case that size would have run you if you'd had a place like TAP Plastics make it for you. I'll bet it would cost you a couple hundred bucks easy. Definitely saves to make it yourself. You did a nice job on yours j.
 

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Discussion Starter #426
Well, I got some resistors, and spliced them in. I also snuck in another SMD, beneath the three spine lights. At last the lights are all pretty well-illuminated, and aren't overwhelmingly bright. A little more tweaking, and it should be good.

About the only lighting issue remaining with the hangar is getting some more light into the aftmost observation booths. They're barely lit, if at all. Still not sure how to properly tackle that.
 

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Discussion Starter #427
I think I should now turn my attention to connecting the model to it's stand and power supply. As noted, many moons ago, I picked up a four-pin mini Jack to install in the bottom of the secondary hull. Just need to work out how to wire everything up so as to make the nacelle motor controlled by a switch, and to turn the main power on/off with a separate switch.

Also, I need to figure out what sort of TOS-appropriate push button/rocker/toggle switches I can find and incorporate into the base.
 

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Discussion Starter #428
Minor update: After finally acquiring the proper size of brass rectangle-channel to place inside the nacelle pylons' wire channels (just for that extra bit of structural integrity--for my peace of mind, if nothing else, since the kit is so well-engineered), I glued the pylons together (after snaking two sets of wires through the channels, first).
 

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Discussion Starter #429
...yeah, not gonna be done for the 50th anniversary. But, hey, all the new data that's come out regarding the 11-footer will make the delay worth it!
 

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...yeah, not gonna be done for the 50th anniversary. But, hey, all the new data that's come out regarding the 11-footer will make the delay worth it!
Well, the 50th anniversary is commonly held to mean the entire year, so you've got a little under four months to go! Get on it!
 

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Well, I got some resistors, and spliced them in. I also snuck in another SMD, beneath the three spine lights. At last the lights are all pretty well-illuminated, and aren't overwhelmingly bright. A little more tweaking, and it should be good.

About the only lighting issue remaining with the hangar is getting some more light into the aftmost observation booths. They're barely lit, if at all. Still not sure how to properly tackle that.
Switches
-Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #433
(Blows off dust)

...yeah, this was not done for the 50th anniversary.

I’ve been focusing on 1/1000 scale models for the past few years. My 1/350 build has been languishing. However, time has indeed passed, and my skillset has broadened since I stopped working on it.

The main reason I stopped was because of those loud engine motors, and trying to figure out a way to minimize the noise. Well, it’s been a few years, so I’m starting to dip my toe back in the water. What’s changed? Have there been new aftermarket lighting kits issued with better motors and whatnot? My original plan was to use a combination of aftermarket motors with the stock Round 2 lighting kit, plus Ross W’s boards for the saucer and secondary hull navigation strobes. I may also start from scratch with the Bridge and hangar deck, since there are some new options for accurate and/or lighting-friendly parts on Shapeways, as well as HDA’s decals, based on the colors from the Smithsonian restoration and Gary Kerr’s research. I’d rather not have to buy the 50th anniversary edition of the kit just to get the upgraded Round 2 decals.

Has an all-in-one lighting kit been produced which has accurate strobe/nacelle dome lights timing (based on all of the new info gleaned from the 50th anniversary restoration of the 11-footer)? From TenaControls or TrekModeler, maybe?

Whose lighting kit is currently the best and most accurate? Thanks!
 

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I’m surprised that you’re still having problems with motor noise. The solution I came up with and posted here, works quite well. I have just above a slight hum and no wobble. I believe Ross on this forum had good success with it also.
 

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Discussion Starter #435
I’m surprised that you’re still having problems with motor noise. The solution I came up with and posted here, works quite well. I have just above a slight hum and no wobble. I believe Ross on this forum had good success with it also.
I need to review this thread and start from the ground up. I’ve had a lot more build experience in the years since I put this model on hiatus, and perhaps I’ll be able to rig up a good solution.
 

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After a lot of trial and error, I settled on a relatively simple and inexpensive solution for myself. I can post details for if you like. It require some fabrication, but not terribly too much. There are some purple flashes in the video that should be there.

P.S. The audio was retained in the videos to give you an idea of the level the noise. My phone was probably about two foot away.


]

 
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