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Bought 5 pairs of old 3.5" IDE HDs from a surplus shop. The first pair, Quantum Fireballs, were a bust - a smooth shafted bearing spinning on a post.

The other 4 pairs have torx case screws and I don't have a driver that small, so now I wait.
Take the magnets out, they're awesome.
 

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Bought 5 pairs of old 3.5" IDE HDs from a surplus shop. The first pair, Quantum Fireballs, were a bust - a smooth shafted bearing spinning on a post.

The other 4 pairs have torx case screws and I don't have a driver that small, so now I wait.
Good news, everyone! The other HDs were more successful, although IBM's thread isn't 4-40 and Maxtor's has a thread 'plug' in one end that won't come out (but appears to be threaded on the inside, but again not 4-40).

These are the 3 which had threaded bearings for the arm:







Just in case anyone else is crazy enough to do this too ...
 

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Discussion Starter #404
Still struggling to achieve the Ultimate Quiet Nacelle. Man, this is a struggle for the ages!

Perhaps the delays are meant to be, since more new info about the original model will be coming out, over the next few months. I should probably take Gary Kerr's advice and not rush this build, since the info will allow for an even more accurate model.

In the meantime, if anyone comes up with an easy solution for this nacelle nightmare, please let me know. I'll keep at it, otherwise!
 

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Still struggling to achieve the Ultimate Quiet Nacelle. Man, this is a struggle for the ages!

Perhaps the delays are meant to be, since more new info about the original model will be coming out, over the next few months. I should probably take Gary Kerr's advice and not rush this build, since the info will allow for an even more accurate model.

In the meantime, if anyone comes up with an easy solution for this nacelle nightmare, please let me know. I'll keep at it, otherwise!
Why is a quiet nacelle so important? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #406
Why is a quiet nacelle so important? :confused:


A. Because noisy motors are distracting, clunky, and kinda destroy the scale illusion of a fictional starship.

B. Quieting the motors is a distinct modeling challenge, and I'm giving this build my all! No half-measures!
 

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Still struggling to achieve the Ultimate Quiet Nacelle. Man, this is a struggle for the ages!

Perhaps the delays are meant to be, since more new info about the original model will be coming out, over the next few months. I should probably take Gary Kerr's advice and not rush this build, since the info will allow for an even more accurate model.

In the meantime, if anyone comes up with an easy solution for this nacelle nightmare, please let me know. I'll keep at it, otherwise!
What have you got so far? That might help in offering suggestions. I'm drilling out a 1/2" hole in the piece that holds the motor to fit the bearing I have. Once that's done, I can connect the motor to the bearing with the silicone tube and the spinning dome to the bearing with some cut-down 2" 4-40 screws I got off eBay.

EDIT: Oh, and which motors are you using again?
 

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Discussion Starter #408
What have you got so far? That might help in offering suggestions. I'm drilling out a 1/2" hole in the piece that holds the motor to fit the bearing I have. Once that's done, I can connect the motor to the bearing with the silicone tube and the spinning dome to the bearing with some cut-down 2" 4-40 screws I got off eBay.

EDIT: Oh, and which motors are you using again?
Mostly just been fiddling with the setup I've been working with for awhile--the Sayama motors, with bearings in the stock motor housings, and silicone tubng connecting the bearing to the motor.
 

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I think the quiet part has less to do with the bearing and spinner, and more to do with insulating the sound from the motor itself. The bearings simply are used more to help have the spinners spin true and straight.

I do not believe there is a way to completely remove the sound.
 

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I do not believe there is a way to completely remove the sound.
No, there certainly isn't. I have an acrylic cover over my MR Enterprise display and it greatly diminishes the noise. In fact, it doesn't bother me at all. And your display is protected!
 

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Discussion Starter #411
No, there certainly isn't. I have an acrylic cover over my MR Enterprise display and it greatly diminishes the noise. In fact, it doesn't bother me at all. And your display is protected!

Speaking of which, I still haven't really had a chance to look into display cases. Any suggestion as to a good source for one?
 

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Speaking of which, I still haven't really had a chance to look into display cases. Any suggestion as to a good source for one?
What area are you in? I made my own pedestal from mdf board and then had an acrylic cover custom made to exact specs by a local plastics company in the L.A. area. They charged me a couple hundred if I remember! Well worth it, I think, although honestly I wasn't very happy w/ the job they did: there are many fine scratches inside and out. But they cleverly covered it w/ a protective film and I couldn't see the scratches when I picked it up at the shop. I would have preferred a glass cover but that would weigh way too much and be very expensive.
 

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I am about to start mine and I plan on using magnetic drive so the motor spins effortlessly,thus reducing drag on the mainshaft and eliminating the weight of the inner dome :dude:
 

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I am about to start mine and I plan on using magnetic drive so the motor spins effortlessly,thus reducing drag on the mainshaft and eliminating the weight of the inner dome :dude:
Can you please elaborate on what you mean by magnetic drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #416
Okay. Since the nacelle motors are driving me nuts, I'm turning my focus back to the hangar lighting.

As you may recall, Line "Q" from the Round 2 lighting kit was burned out, or something. So, I got a replacement. I spent this evening splicing and soldering the wiring so as to replace the stock wires with magnet wire. However, the solder, liquid insulation, and dabs of hot glue used to hold everything together make the whole assembly too thick to get the hull halves to close properly.

I'm thinking I should just scrap the stock LEDs, and splice in some SMDs. Thoughts?

Also, I started wet-sanding the secondary hull and dorsal halves so that the window inserts are more flush to the hull.


P.S.-- Sometimes ambition can be a curse. If I'd built this kit stock, with no concern for the engine effects, or omitted the hangar lighting, I'd have had this kit done a LONG time ago. But, no, I gotta be gettin' all fancy.


She may not be done in time for the 50th anniversary, but this is a battle to the death, now. And I intend to win! At the very least, once I lock down the hangar lighting, I'll be much, much closer to actually building and sealing the secondary hull and dorsal, and can then focus on the nacelles and saucer.
 

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Discussion Starter #419
Successfully spliced in the SMDs.

The hangar/fantail/spine lights are all pretty solid, now. About the only real issue is that the SMD illuminating the spine lights is WAY too bright. Gonna have to splice in a resistor or something to dim the intensity. Any thoughts or suggestions for alternative methods would be appreciated, as electronics and correctly calculating resistance are not my areas of expertise.
 

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Did you use the SMDs with a series resistor, or did it come pre-wired? Mine had one set for a 12V source but I found they looked better at 9V source (in other words, less voltage applied across them so dimmer). To do that, try adding another series resistor of around 1k ohm and see how it looks. If it's still too bright, use a higher value. If it's now too dim, go lower.
 
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