Hobbyist Forums banner

381 - 400 of 439 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
If anybody is interested in duplicated the effect I settle on, the text in the above post described the modifications I did to the bulbs.

I also modified the electronics (very cheaply I might add) so that I can turn on and control the lighting and motor speeds by RF remote control.
Here are the links:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=4480171&postcount=67

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=4480285&postcount=1278

You can find it here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-RF-IR-12V-3-10-Key-Remote-Wireless-Controller-For-RGB-3528-5050-LED-Strip-/161870990970?var=&hash=item25b0434e7a:m:mXGfE3IG_g8KLYHvpPUNg9g
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
RossW, yes I did. Check out this post:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=4518448&postcount=1425

jgoldsack, check the same post, the link is for the domes.

Here's a photo of the dome finished.
That's what I'm after. Do you remember where you got the brass coupler that links the screws? Also, did you need a nut on the underside of the dome to hold it securely to the screw? Finally, did you drill a hole exactly the diameter of the screw or make it slightly bigger so you could ensure the dome spins on centre?

Edit: I have these threaded-on-one-end couplers and I tapped the open end to accept the small screw seen below. This works perfectly and the dome spins concentrically, but the coupler isn't long enough when screwed into the bearing and placed in the plastic housing part.



If I could find a coupler like this but longer overall it would work just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
"Do you remember where you got the brass coupler that links the screws?"

The brass "coupler" really wasn't one. It' started out as this:

http://shop.dubro.com/p/e-z-connector-for-rod-or-cable-qty-pkg-2/aircraft_e-z-connectors?pp=12

"Also, did you need a nut on the underside of the dome to hold it securely to the screw? "

Yes, if you mean as a locking nut.

"Finally, did you drill a hole exactly the diameter of the screw or make it slightly bigger so you could ensure the dome spins on centre?"

It was a snug fit.

"Edit: I have these threaded-on-one-end couplers and I tapped the open end to accept the small screw seen below. This works perfectly and the dome spins concentrically, but the coupler isn't long enough when screwed into the bearing and placed in the plastic housing part."

Looking at your photo it looks like you almost already have it solved. If you're having a hard time finding a long enough screw, why don't you just add another of your modified "threaded-on-one-end couplers" to extend what you have?

I just made use of what I had on hand. The bearing and the screw that holds the dome on were salvaged from a couple of bad hard drives. If you find some longer screws and would like to do what I did the photo below should help.

The E-Z Connector is threaded but not all the way through. I had to drill it the rest of the way and re-tap it. Next I cut the head of the screw off and threaded the un-cut end half way into the new coupling with the locking nut first and tightened the two firmly. I wanted the smallest foot print in front of and behind the spinner so at this point I put the assembly (including the screw) in the drill press and trimmed it down with a file as far as I could.

I left the screw long until I check it for fit. You will need a locking nut at the bearing. I had one that uses a nylon insert. Could you use Loctite instead? Sure, again I just made use of what I had.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
"Do you remember where you got the brass coupler that links the screws?"

The brass "coupler" really wasn't one. It' started out as this:

http://shop.dubro.com/p/e-z-connector-for-rod-or-cable-qty-pkg-2/aircraft_e-z-connectors?pp=12

"Also, did you need a nut on the underside of the dome to hold it securely to the screw? "

Yes, if you mean as a locking nut.

"Finally, did you drill a hole exactly the diameter of the screw or make it slightly bigger so you could ensure the dome spins on centre?"

It was a snug fit.

"Edit: I have these threaded-on-one-end couplers and I tapped the open end to accept the small screw seen below. This works perfectly and the dome spins concentrically, but the coupler isn't long enough when screwed into the bearing and placed in the plastic housing part."

Looking at your photo it looks like you almost already have it solved. If you're having a hard time finding a long enough screw, why don't you just add another of your modified "threaded-on-one-end couplers" to extend what you have?

I just made use of what I had on hand. The bearing and the screw that holds the dome on were salvaged from a couple of bad hard drives. If you find some longer screws and would like to do what I did the photo below should help.

The E-Z Connector is threaded but not all the way through. I had to drill it the rest of the way and re-tap it. Next I cut the head of the screw off and threaded the un-cut end half way into the new coupling with the locking nut first and tightened the two firmly. I wanted the smallest foot print in front of and behind the spinner so at this point I put the assembly (including the screw) in the drill press and trimmed it down with a file as far as I could.

I left the screw long until I check it for fit. You will need a locking nut at the bearing. I had one that uses a nylon insert. Could you use Loctite instead? Sure, again I just made use of what I had.
Brilliant, thanks. I was thinking I'd need Loctite to hold the screws securely but I do have some of those nylon insert locking nuts so I'll try those first.

I think I'll try cutting the threaded end down on one coupler and screw it into another to get the length I need. Might have to solder them together to make sure they don't come undone.

You've been a really big help, Hauser, so thanks very much again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
Gregatron - if you feel like I'm hijacking your thread then please just say so. I'm only posting here because of the thread history and we both seem to be working on the engines at the same time.

So, I got the threaded couplers tapped and cut the thread of one so it can screw all the way into the other. Screwed into the bearing with a clear dome and tested it out. The bad news is that there seems to be a small (but noticeable) precession in the bearing - I tested all the ones I got from Electronic Goldmine and they all seem to have the same problem. Same thing if I use a screw directly into the bearing.





Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
I also went ahead and got stuff needed to redo mine again using this method. I will post my progress once I have all my materials.

Another thought for the "spindle" connecting the spinner to the motor, why not use a 4-40 threaded rod? Can pick those up from most hobby stores, probably even Home Depot. Can get long enought to cut to size for both nacelles...

just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
I also went ahead and got stuff needed to redo mine again using this method. I will post my progress once I have all my materials.

Another thought for the "spindle" connecting the spinner to the motor, why not use a 4-40 threaded rod? Can pick those up from most hobby stores, probably even Home Depot. Can get long enought to cut to size for both nacelles...

just a thought.
I've seen those, but then you would need two nuts to hold the dome to the rod. Not impossible but maybe not as clean as the button head screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
725 Posts
Discussion Starter #389
Gregatron - if you feel like I'm hijacking your thread then please just say so. I'm only posting here because of the thread history and we both seem to be working on the engines at the same time.
No worries, my friend! What benefits one benefits all! Working together, maybe we can get the best possible results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
Gregatron - if you feel like I'm hijacking your thread then please just say so. I'm only posting here because of the thread history and we both seem to be working on the engines at the same time.

So, I got the threaded couplers tapped and cut the thread of one so it can screw all the way into the other. Screwed into the bearing with a clear dome and tested it out. The bad news is that there seems to be a small (but noticeable) precession in the bearing - I tested all the ones I got from Electronic Goldmine and they all seem to have the same problem. Same thing if I use a screw directly into the bearing.





Any ideas?
These are the roller bearings I'm using (I think Hauser found them). All 4 I ordered have a slight recession/wobble in them, which is more pronounced the longer the screw. Any ideas of where to get higher quality ones? I've done some Googling but no joy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
These are the roller bearings I'm using (I think Hauser found them). All 4 I ordered have a slight recession/wobble in them, which is more pronounced the longer the screw. Any ideas of where to get higher quality ones? I've done some Googling but no joy.
old hard drives. I literally just picked up a box of about 50 from work that are dead, great for bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
I got an old Samsung IDE desktop drive and have disassembled it this far:



How do I pop out the bearing? And do you know what thread that would be? It's not 4-40
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
I got an old Samsung IDE desktop drive and have disassembled it this far:



How do I pop out the bearing? And do you know what thread that would be? It's not 4-40

You want the bearings from the actuator arms, not the ones from the disc platters. (#9 in image below)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
Thanks jgoldsack. My IDE hard drive's insides look very similar, and I've extracted the actuator arm bearing:



But the inside of the bearing is smooth, not threaded. Was yours like that? What did you use in yours?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
Thanks jgoldsack. My IDE hard drive's insides look very similar, and I've extracted the actuator arm bearing:



But the inside of the bearing is smooth, not threaded. Was yours like that? What did you use in yours?
I have about 15 that I have pulled out so far (still have another 10 or so to rip apart), most are 4-40 threaded inside, only 2 were smooth. Not all are the same of course. I didn't include all of them for brevity.. I got many duplicate types, so I have plenty to test with.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
I have about 15 that I have pulled out so far (still have another 10 or so to rip apart), most are 4-40 threaded inside, only 2 were smooth. Not all are the same of course. I didn't include all of them for brevity.. I got many duplicate types, so I have plenty to test with.
Do you remember the details of the ones which had 4-40 threaded insides?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,221 Posts
Bought 5 pairs of old 3.5" IDE HDs from a surplus shop. The first pair, Quantum Fireballs, were a bust - a smooth shafted bearing spinning on a post.

The other 4 pairs have torx case screws and I don't have a driver that small, so now I wait.
 
381 - 400 of 439 Posts
Top