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Discussion Starter #1
As some of you have seen I have made occaisional posts with progress on my build up. Rather that do it piecemeal I decided to do a web page and show all of the details and process, starting with all of the accurizing that can be done on the refit. If you find a detail of accurizing that I have missed please comment here or PM me and I will add it.

Please feel free to offer comments and suggestions.

Here is the Link to my page.

http://www.showcase.netins.net/web/marc111creations/index.htm

Enjoy,
Mark
 
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The word brave just don't quite say it.
I agree with fokkerpilot, excellent attention to detail !

Looking very good Mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Guys. I am going to try to run through the buildup and experiments just like Raytheon and Raist3001 did. In parallel with the actual build up I want to try an experiment using Raytheons interior spotlight illumination trick and Raist3001's beautiful multilayer aztec approach.

Regards,
Mark
 

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Fantastic attention to detail. Awesome work Marc :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The good news is I have made some more progress on the construction details. Painting on the rec deck and officers lounge has begun.

http://www.showcase.netins.net/web/marc111creations/index.htm

The web pages are updated as follows:

Page 1: Accurizing details added for further details on the bridge decks and the engineering hull sections.

Page 4: A small Arboretum update on the roof attachment and roof decal. Excuse the poor focus on the roof decal I need to redo the photo.

Page 5: Added details of the accurizing alterations to the bridge deck.

Page 8: Added page 8 to start covering the accurizing of the engineering hull.

Now the bad news: My digital camera failed. I have a Dimage A1 (which I like) and suddenly its viewfinder showed nothing but vertically streaked images. After checking I find out that Sony, who made the CCD, had a glue problem that only manifests after years have passed. They are fixing it at their expense but if you have a camera made betwen 2000 and 2004 and you see this you might want to check with Sony. So unfortunately I will not be able to update things for a few weeks until the camera gets back.

Regards,
Mark
 

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You are doing an awesome job - this is the only refit I've seen in any forum out there that's truly on the way to being the perfect Big E from the standpoint of physical accuracy (not just paint job). Your build info is now becoming my guidelines! (hope you don't mind)

I've been gathering info/images for almost a year now, and because of family and job etc, I'm anticipating mine to take YEARS (just to get the time to do everything -especially paint) - but a long process I will enjoy of course.

You mentioned at the beginning of the post that you were open to input on other fixes for the kit - there's tons to work on, depending on how far one wants to take the accurizing, but here's a couple of spots that have caught my attention recently:
1 - towards the front of the warp nacelles, the covering that separates the flux chiller from the rest of the grille - there are many spots that should be "open" towards the rear, like bent sheets of metal (see images)
2 - the angle of the command decks (just below bridge piece) is not in line with the bridge piece (compare images of PL and publicity photo)
I'd be interested to see if/how you would tackle these.... I'm hoping that sanding the command decks down would work, but I'm not sure yet what to do with the engines, since that incorrect covering should be almost flush with the "bulge" part of the engine in which the long grilles sit. What do you think? Again, I think you're doing some of the best work out there on this kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the kind words guys. I posted things to help others so please use the information.

Gunstar1:
I appreciate the input on other details. Please feel free to add any more you might come across. I need to look at those spots you mentioned before I respond. I'll get back to you.

Regards,
Mark
 
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Mark,
Check the code on the 'back to main gallery index' button at the top of page 8, it's linking to my site and i think you wanna keep the viewers on your site my friend :)

Back on topic: coming along very nicely so far, you keep it going sir !

Go easy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Raytheon. Fixed the link. I hate cut and paste errors. (grin)

Got a good news email today. My camera is on the way back so I can do more updates. Sony's service has been superb. They notified me when they received it. Where to check repair status and then sent a tracking number when they shipped it back. Turn around time less than 5 days!

Mark
 

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Gunstar: Some selective sanding and/or grinding to thin the thickness and remove some of the ends, and then layering over the nacelle parts with thin brass is how I plan to tackle those nacelle details.
Marc111: Truly beautiful. I find can't quite give up on the boards and your amazing work has brought me out of lurk mode long enough to say what you're doing is surely going to make a museum/world class E.
I plan on fixing those thin sheets on the nacelles with thin sheets as soon as I finish (another project and) figure out a way of correcting the profile of the front of the nacelles. If I'm seeing this correctly (no guarantees), compared to the Christie's photos esp (but even Mr Scott's), the nacelles do not slant out at the top with enough angle. I'm thinking at least 1/8", possibly almost 3/16" more at the top front tip to get the correct angle.
The flux grills sit on a raised panel. The angle of the front of that raised panel should match the angle of the front of the nacelle, and after the nacelle fix this still appears to angle slightly too far forward.
It would be relatively easy to shorten the bottom of the nacelles, but that doesn't look right. The fix needs to be a lengthening of the top, where All That Detail is. Unfortunately, I am still too scared to tackle it, and thus have ground to a halt, so I've gone off and tried to work a fix on my Excelsior, which seemed easy enough at the time but which is proving even more problematic than I think the nacelles would have been. At least they're big enough to hold on to.
Great job!
 

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I take it back.
It's a Really Easy fix. If you just cut it into a couple of pieces.
This is the correct angle, as far as I can tell, roughly tacked together. Some backing, some styrene shims, and some putty, and nobody would ever know what had happened. The bumps that will be sanded away aren't in the right places anyway.
And a little bit of correction of the angle of the flux grill mount to make it parallel with the leading edge.
As for the piece that slides between the halves here, just kerf the inside curve and bend it a little more, slice the top side and insert an filler piece.
A Really Easy fix. Sigh. And all this time I've been worried...
 

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This is the first time I've looked at the kit's assembly instructions. I'm surprised at how meager they are. However:
Sub-assembly 9, the whole of the sensor/deflector unit, as far as I can tell, measures to exactly the right depth. But there's always been something that doesn't look quite right about it. I thought that proportionately it looks a little too small. That obviously isn't the case. What I have discovered about it (again only to the best of what I can spy - confirm everything yourselves) is that part 30 is .10" too long. That 1/10" could be shaved off the front. That means that the base of clear part 220 needs to be made correspondingly deeper.
We're talking subtle differences here, an 1/8 to increase the angle of the nacelles by a couple degrees there, a 1/10" here, but I'm convinced that minuscule as they are, the changes are visible to the eye, esp when you compare to photos, esp Christie's, and that the ship looks better, looks Right??? when they're fixed.
????
 

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I like that fix idea for the front end.... but now that I've been investigating the warp engines more closely, I'm afraid I've opened pandora's box.... there are some really big issues with the arrangement of the various lengthwise "bulges" - I'll get into that later as I'm currently working on some wireframe schematics of some trouble spots on the ship with my Adobe Illustrator (tracing over photos of the studio model) so I can get accurate angles for things like the front ends of the warp engines and the profile of the impulse drive.
Speaking of Impulse Engines.... does anyone find it odd that no one is discussing appropriate lighting for the Impulse Engines? In the ORIGINAL film, the only time the engines are lit is when Big E is cruising thru the solar system (the engines are essentially yellow). Here's the catch: the IMPULSE DEFLECTION CRYSTAL! It behaves differently - not the standard (II-VI, anyway) light blue that most assume, but it also is unlit the entire movie except when in the solar system.... where if you watch carefully..... it's bright RED! The highly tampered-with director's edition (where they "fix" the wrong things) incorporates a blue deflection crystal when the Big E gets probed (with the digital enterprise). Anybody else ever see that? I will not be lighting my ship (and will portray engines as unlit), but I thought those who are planning on lighting might want to consider. (i will now get off my purist soap box...though this thread seems to be more enterprise-purists)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gunstar1 and Starseeker, Thanks for the inputs. As I have found in the past no one person catches all of the details. My listing is a summary of what a lot of builders have noticed so far.

I have some things to add to the accurizing page on my next update.

1) Gunstar1: You are correct the small sheet material curve details on the front nacelle sections are not molded in on the kit. I haven't quite decided how to fix these but the suggestions allready made are good ones. I am also thinking about whether they can be carved in.

2) Gunstar1: Yes the slopes of the B/C decks are off. There should be more slope there. As you commented I think some sanding can bring it in close. One will have to be careful as the detail needs to remain. This may also address the fact that the decking as it flattens out is a little too wide at the sides.

3) Starseeker: Glad I was able to bring you out of lurk mode as your scratch of the shuttlebay was one of my inspirations. Thanks for the complements I am still learning but I have patience.

Based on your nacelle front angle comments I went back to my picture archive because it s very important for angle judgements to get as orthoganal a view as possible. Just a slight slant to the picture and you can really fool yourself. After comparing multiple points, I agree. You are right on and the top at the horizontal boss line needs to be moved forward by 0.125 inch. You are also correct that a lengthening is needed not a shortening. I like your approach and will try a variation of it.

I do disagree on one point. As I scale the angles and compare the angle of the front to that the slightly raised panel where the flux grills sit is in fact correct on the kit and matches both the corrected front slope and the edge slope of the original so closely that it is not worth touching.

4) Starseeker on the length of part 30 on the engineering hull
I have a set of detail photos and cropped closeups that I made including multiple good orthoganals that I have scaled with a vernier caliper. As I compare things Part 30's length relative to the next part to the rear, part 28 is in fact correct. I would not suggest changing the basic front to back length of the part. It is certainly not off by 0.1 inches. You may want to recheck this.

5) Gunstar1: OK now you got me started looking at all of the major bumps on the nacelles! (grin) This next find is your fault. The main long bulge that runs down almost the entire top of the nacelle looks to me to be short by 0.015625 inch and should be extended to the rear by this amount.

6) Lighting. I have only though about how to light it not each specific. However I have a pre directors cut video tape of STTMP. I will go back and see what I can see on the impulse engine crystal. I know the deflector goes from copper to blue only in the first movie, but I am not sure about the impulse crystal.

All for now, keep the inputs coming.
Mark
 

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I don't know how well this is going to be visible. These are a couple portions of the Christie's auction photo eaDSC07329, which is a lovely relatively long shot side view, so I'm thinking distortion (I hope) was minimized. The photo matches extremely closely the Pocket Books or whoever STTMP blueprints. My attempted crops of the photo don't seem to enlarge all that well, so if you've got a download of the original photo, check it out and see what you think.
 
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