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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this in my stash and wonder how it would run after 20 plus years.I oiled the armature,gears and bushings and here are the results; [ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee54/philo426/?action=view&current=2009_0910Spock0538.flv]
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Looks like she's doing good after an extended vacation. I don't have any steam power on my table. I've thought about it, but the diesel in my blood always over rules! Nice looking loco! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you like diesels,Check this one out! [ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee54/philo426/?action=view&current=2009_0911Spock0207.flv]
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You might want to get spare parts for your Bowser wile you still can. They ceased making their Steam engine kits last year.
 

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naaa, people are too lazy and unskilled to build a kit. I was asked to build one for a guy about 25 years ago. I HAVE the mechanical skills and built it without problems. Since then I've built and superdetailed about 40 engines. Mostly PRR I1's and K4's but several of all their kits. I have to I1's and a K4 and a Challenger and an H9 2-8-0, which I think was their best kit. I have a few USRA 4-8-2's as N&W K2a's, and I have lettered the Challenger as PRR too, but just to irritate my PRR buddies. I Used Helix Humper replacement motors and DCC in all my Bowsers. They pull great, they will run every day for 12 hours for about 2 years before needing the valve gear rivets replaced. Every month we would turn the loco and train the other way to keep the wear even. This was a layout in the front window of a Hobby Shop BTW. I used to re-quarter all the Bowser drivers and "Make Sure" about the friction points all over the mechanics. I'd oil the poop out of 'em and run 'em in bare metal for an hour or so tosee if anything fell off or bent, then they would get cleaned up, and preped for painting and wiring for headlights. I isoated the enging and tender and directly connected the DCC harness wires directly to the frames. the motor and light were 4 wires to the engine. I uesd a 4 pin Miniatronics connector and stashed the DCC decoder in the tender. My Bowser I1 2-10-0's together will pull ALL the cars I have, which is over 240. (like 264 or so I think, but some have missing parts soa didn't go for the ride) 240 cars, and 160 of them are coal hoppers, 40, 55, and 70 ton N&W hoppers as used in the 1930's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Wow1 sounds like you are quite the Bowser expert!I recall having a little troublebuilding it but after some adjustments she runs just fine!Did you build the T-1 duplex by chance? now this MDC 2-truck Shay was a real bear!i had to dissamble it a few times to get her running right but I finally did it! Here is a short video clip of it!9right click the pic to view the clip) [ame=http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee54/philo426/?action=view&current=2009_0911Spock0137.flv]
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I did a 3 truck narrow shay from MDC with the NWSL aftermarket gears n such. Adding DCC was really a pain. I also did 3 of the HOn3 2-8-0's outside frame engines. very tiny but cool to watch the rods.

I only fixed a T1, never built that one from the start. You should be proud, you have more skills and guts to build a working model than 80 percent of the model railroaders out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It wasn't easy but I am glad that I was able to make it run as smoothly as it does!I like to challenge myself helps to keep you sharp!Yes I agree that a large percentage of model railroaders seem to want to go the rtr route.I don't begrudge them but I can't forget the fun of taking a kit and making it look and perform well!
 
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