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Cautiously Optimistic
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What paint brands, custom mixtures, and/or other finishing techniques are my fellow J-2 builders liking for their "silver," "grey," or "silver-grey" exteriors?

Kindly post your thoughts, tips, warnings, and test strips here!
 

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For the most "Hero" look, I'm using a white primer, and Testors "Steel" which is a flat silver gray.
 

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As I posted in my thread, Tamiya Mica Silver...





For the Interior, I painted it the colors Moebius suggested, except for the floor and several odds and ends...
 

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I will probably use Tamiya Gloss Aluminum in a spray can. Very smooth and durable. You can handle it, tape over it etc without smudging, finger prints, etc. If I want something brighter I might try the Testors AMC silver lacquer in their auto lacquer series. It was great on my LiS Robot.
 

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As I posted in my thread, Tamiya Mica Silver...





For the Interior, I painted it the colors Moebius suggested, except for the floor and several odds and ends...
I love your exterior treatment. I may go that route, but I'd like the finish to be a bit less glossy, so I may use a bit of a dull coat-not much, thru an airbrush.
 

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Tamiya!

I'm planning on using Tamiya spray for the two halves of the hull and interior.
I'm going to use their whit primer, Wooden deck tan, light sand, Red brown, & gray green for the interior, & Either metallic silver or Mica silver for the outer hull. Not sure which of the two yet. I'll get both and test on some scrap plastic to see which looks better to me naked eye.
 

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I'll be using the Krylon Brushed Nickle rattlecan spray for the recessed hull areas, and Tamiya Mica Silver as the main hull color, all atop a layer of white primer.
 

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I will probably use Tamiya Gloss Aluminum in a spray can. Very smooth and durable. You can handle it, tape over it etc without smudging, finger prints, etc. If I want something brighter I might try the Testors AMC silver lacquer in their auto lacquer series. It was great on my LiS Robot.
Ditto
 

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I'm using Krylon dull Aluminum......no gloss and no metal fleck yet it has the clean metal grey look when you hold it up to a light...The closest thing that I can compare it to is that it looks like the tamiya gloss aluminum but without the gloss.
 

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In the past, I have painted a;; of my Jupiter 2's testors metallic silver however, it scratches easily and fingerprints are a nitemare even after 12 years. BeatlePauls looks great in mica silver and tamiya i am finding out is much stronger and resists fingerprints & drys harder while the testors seemed to always dry slower/softer and would always scratch easier. All of my J-2s had all the same color on the outside hulls & inside the landing gear bays & the legs themselves which looks good. I am trying to picture the landing gear bays a different color than the hulls and maybe the landing legs as well, how many here are doing the same ?
 

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In the past, I have painted a;; of my Jupiter 2's testors metallic silver however, it scratches easily and fingerprints are a nitemare even after 12 years. BeatlePauls looks great in mica silver and tamiya i am finding out is much stronger and resists fingerprints & drys harder while the testors seemed to always dry slower/softer and would always scratch easier. All of my J-2s had all the same color on the outside hulls & inside the landing gear bays & the legs themselves which looks good. I am trying to picture the landing gear bays a different color than the hulls and maybe the landing legs as well, how many here are doing the same ?
I want to make the fusion core and the landing legs a slightly darker shade of Mica Silver.
 

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In the past, I have painted a;; of my Jupiter 2's testors metallic silver however, it scratches easily and fingerprints are a nitemare even after 12 years. BeatlePauls looks great in mica silver and tamiya i am finding out is much stronger and resists fingerprints & drys harder while the testors seemed to always dry slower/softer and would always scratch easier. All of my J-2s had all the same color on the outside hulls & inside the landing gear bays & the legs themselves which looks good. I am trying to picture the landing gear bays a different color than the hulls and maybe the landing legs as well, how many here are doing the same ?
I am using testors metaliser titanium on the gear wells, the footpads and a portion of the strut. The upper portion the "hydraulic ram" I am using metaliser polished aluminum. They are buffable and I will seal with metaliser sealer. I wanted a slightly different look for the gear etc. The outer hull I will use Alclad lacquer.
 

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I used Tamiya TS-17 for the main hull. I let it dry about 5 days and gave it a light
mirco-fibre polish. Looks great.

For the fusion core and landing legs I used rattlecan Testors 'chrome'. I let it dry 2 weeks and it still was soft and picked up a LOT of fingerprints. I gently polished with a q-tip and then vigorously polished with a mirco fibre cloth. It helped, looks okay, but it's not acceptable as is. (The core is fine - the legs are the issue.) My last hope it to clear coat and do one last buffing. If this dosen't work I'm going to buy the hero legs. They look a little beyond my skill level, but I'm really try to make this thing look as good as possible where it counts. FWIW, I placed one white LED in each landing well - so it shines directly onto the pad....this offsets the wells and gives nice difinition to the ship in general. I'm not a great modeller, so the easier I can do things the better.

I'll post a couple of pics soon, I'm still having trouble using photobucket despite the kind help I've received here.

Mark
 

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Testors Chrome never dries. A clear coat will turn it a nice dull grey color. You can remove it easily enough with Super Clean, Purple Power, etc. Also, Tamiya's plastic safe lacquer thinner will strip it off in a jiffy, as will Gunze Mr. Color Thinner.

If you want a bright Tamiya shade, they have Bare Metal Silver in their AS series for polished metal.
 

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>Testors Chrome never dries.<

So, it's not just me!

>A clear coat will turn it a nice dull grey color.<

Oh, that's not what I'm after. Good to know, you saved me some time.

>You can remove it easily enough with Super Clean, Purple Power, etc. Also, >Tamiya's plastic safe lacquer thinner will strip it off in a jiffy, as will Gunze >Mr. Color Thinner.<

I generally use Easy Off, but I've been wondering about that Tamiya product. I'm gonna' try that.

>If you want a bright Tamiya shade, they have Bare Metal Silver in their AS >series for polished metal.<

I'll indeed check out that BMS.

Great advice. I didn't realise it, but I'm almost finished except for final installation of some more LEDS, practicals and a couple of other minor things.

Thanks as always,
Mark
 
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