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Discussion Starter #21
Slowly trying to fix up scratches and indents in the sphere caused by working on seams and installing the photoetch airlock door.

Also been considering what to do about the engine vent grills. The photoetch grills look much more like what was on screen than the molded plastic. But the molded plastic and the photoetch don't line up, the plastic ribs are between the photoetch ribs. I could carefully cut out the plastic ribs leaving a small circle of them to hold the photoetch, or remove the plastic completely and somehow carefully glue in the photoetch the same way on all 6 ports....

Either option leaves the possibility of seeing the "raw" inside of the model, so, now I'm thinking I'll 3D print some inserts to replace the molded plastic ribs. First I think I'll try fully 3D printing the inserts with ribs and see if they can be made better than the photoetch, the width of the ribs is around the minimum size I can print. If that doesn't work I'll make something that will support the photoetch and also hide the internals of the model. It's all overkill, since it will all be painted black behind the grills, but when taking pictures with a flash stuff back there will show up.
 

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I'd close off the engine openings from behind with sheet styrene painted black, then glue the etch in place. This will leave a shallow black space behind the grills.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I've already glued the parts together, so what ever I end up doing will have to be done from the outside. Just wasn't thinking ahead on those parts, and I was leaning towards not using the photoetch there.

The only detail missing from the kit part is a ring around the grills, just occurred to me that I could 3D print just the ring and see how that looks, there are extra grills on the photoetch sheet but I'd rather not sacrifice one of those just to test the look.
 

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MartyS,

You are making really good progress here. I too have this kit and will one day build it. I am looking forward to seeing how you handle the exterior paint scheme, as I have seen a lot of different interpretations.

Thanks

Phillip1
 

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Discussion Starter #25
In case anyone is curious about where a battery pack could be installed for lighting, I think the sphere would be the place for it. The top half of the sphere stays on very nicely with 3 small pieces of tape, I'm guessing 3 magnets on some little brackets would hold it on perfectly.
 

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I've already glued the parts together, so what ever I end up doing will have to be done from the outside. Just wasn't thinking ahead on those parts, and I was leaning towards not using the photoetch there.

The only detail missing from the kit part is a ring around the grills, just occurred to me that I could 3D print just the ring and see how that looks, there are extra grills on the photoetch sheet but I'd rather not sacrifice one of those just to test the look.
How would black poster board or construction paper cut into circles small enough to fit through but big enough to cover the opening work?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I liked the look of the 3D printed rings so that's what I'm going with, avoiding all the scary cutting out perfectly round hole issues. :wink2:

Rings are 8.4mm OD, 6.4mm ID, 0.25mm thick. Sanded lightly so even thinner now.


Engine grill rings.


Rings installed.

In case anyone is wondering, here's what the inside of the sphere looks like before I glued it together:


Inside of the sphere.
 

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They wouldnt necessarly have to be perfect circles.

So how about stuffing the cavity with black tissue paper like you would use in wrapping up gifts? May not look as clean as a flat surface in the hole but it would fill the opening. :cheers2:

black panty house, leggings or other scrape material may also work....
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Filling the holes was never an issue, the scary part for me would be slipping and damaging some of the surface detail.

Here's a better picture of the little 3D printed rings installed, doesn't look that different from the photo etch. If I was lighting it the photo etch would be a necessity, but all I really wanted were the missing rings.

Remember those holes are only about 1/4 inch in diameter, the weird proportions of this spaceship make you think the parts must be big, it's a 40+ inch long model, but the individual parts are small. To the naked eye those plastic rings look even closer to the photo etch.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
For painting the spine I first thought of building supports on the ends and spinning it like a rotisserie. But ended up doing it vertically, easier to manage that way:


Painting the spine.

Not sure if this is done yet, after the paint dries for a day I'll decide if it needs more coats:

Spine painted white.

Airbrushing things white sure shows every little seam, and there are many of them buried in surface detail I didn't want to mess up with putty and attempting to sand it. So went with white craft paint, that stuff is so thick it worked like latex caulk, and worked perfectly on the tiny seams. Basically applied it with a toothpick and then wiped it off the surface with a towel, let dry and then went over the area with one last coat of white, now the drive section is done:


Seams filled.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Got the sphere painted white and then put on the grey, masking the grey will take a while, then more white to cover the grey over spray, then masking comes off to put a layer of white over the grey...

After all the time spend spraying the model black and then white, my airbrush developed some control and spitting issues, so had to do a complete tear down, clean, lube, and rebuild it, now it's back to normal Iwata goodness.

Also epoxied the spine to the drive section.

Maybe in a week it will be done.



Painting the sphere 1.


Drive and spine epoxied.
 
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