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Discussion Starter #1
Where can I get a mod motor for my brp. Speed 300 maybe or anything else. I hate to admit it but there is an HPI micro that is outrunning me so bad in the straights that I cant beat him. This just cant go on any longer. I need to get close to his speed and I will be able to handle him in the turns. Help me guys. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks karlo511 and micro___ racer for your replys. I was not aware that Bud sold the speed 300 motors. I will try Bud first and then the others. Micro, I already have the 300 pod, just need the motor. If this doesnt work then I will go to 8-cells!!!!!
 

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38TANGO - do you have the "tuned with gold dust brushes" motor that BRP sells? I find that motor to be quicker in the infield than the speed 300. With the right pinion and spur you will be FAST! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Micro-- Yes I do. However, I think I got a "dud" from Bud. I have two other older BRP stock motors that seem to run a lot better than the "tuned motor I got from Bud. I haven't complained to Bud about it because he has always helped me out a lot with questions and suggestions, etc. I just need more speed and I am getting desparate...
 

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what gearing combo are you using?
i usually race on a 1/10th scale aspahlt track with either a stock 300 or tuned one and gear it up 52/11 or 52/12 and have consistently been able to pull away from the micros and some 1/10th scale on the straights.

i just order a motor from mike at www.cyberslot.com for a smaller micro specific carpet track. so i'll be testing this one out. i was also using the kit 16d but it felt like i needed more for the 20 - 25ft straight. the infield was no problem.

experiment with the gearing and also try bearings in the rear pod and fronts, if your class allows it. i have the acer ceramic nitrides and they are so smooth :thumbsup:

i just put up these pics
http://www.one18th.com/showtoy.php?id=1896
the sc-18 is just so addictive :D
 

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Yes, just file the points off the splines so they go on easier.

And on all Speed 300 motors.....be careful of the endbell when pressing a gear onto the shaft. Don't let those little tabs that the wires solder onto get bent over, they break off easy!
 

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BudBartos said:
38Tango >> Make sure those slot car motors are not bound up !!!! The 431 should be better than the stock.
If I may elaborate...?

If the motor screws cut washers are on the bushing it will distort the can enough to cause it to bind, flat spot toward the bushing for the motor screws.

In the instructions there is a note about ensuring the motor is not bound up by striking the pinion after the motor is secured to the pod. Taking a screwdriver handle and smacking the pinion provides enough shock to the shaft to reset the bushings so they are perpendicular if the washer isn't pressing on the bushing and all is well otherwise.

If you carefully rotate the spur gear and it feels the same with the
motor mesh for the full rotation of the spur gear without feeling tighter or looser on part of the rotation, then the diff is assembled properly. If there is a tight spot or loose spot the diff rings are not glued down flat and you need to fix this. Either the diff ring spacer on the diff side wheel isn't seated properly. This needs disassembled and reglued if that is the problem or the spacer needs "squared up" on the hub.

Any corrections or additions? Bud? others?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone. Bud-- The 431 just doesnt have it. I have run it on my turbo 35 and it is very tight compared to two other brp stock motors. I was careful installing it in the car, washers,etc and i did not do anything to the pinion gear before or after installing. Haven't taken it apart yet. Could be the mags have picked up something from my work table. I will check inside the motor tonite. The older motors just have way!! more RPM the the new "tuned" motor. As far as my gearing goes, I am running the new 52 t spur and diff seems to be very smooth. Oh yeah, the new motor pulls more than 9.5 amps at 3 volts on the t-35. Something must be stuck inside, let you know tommorrow. And glad to hear that the brp pinions will fit w/300. Thanks K1m.
 

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The motor cans are built for lighter weight...as such, the screws can deform the can and bind the shaft if you aren't careful. If you torque it down with the washer on the bushing it can cause the shaft to bind.

Nil came up with a cool one piece washer design that eliminates messing with the two washer and the flat. You'll have to ask him for the template or buy a few from him...

Nil, with all your spare time I'm sure you want to be in the business of one-piece washer creation... :jest:
 

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It is the same motor but they have 6 volt and 7.2 volt versions. The 7.2 is the way to go.it has less bottom end . When I ran the 6 volt I just turned the high end point down on the throttle say like 25% so it was running about 3/4 speed then if I could I would turn it up some.
 
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