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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was wondering if Moebius had fixed the Chariot tread melting problem?
I have a kit I purchased more than a year ago and wanted to buy a new set of reformulated treads (or plastic wheels, whichever is appropriate), without buying a whole new model.

I think it would be inappropriate to ask for a free-bee at this point, but I don't want to spend the price of a whole new model. Perhaps I could just pay Moebius for the cost of shipping and the needed parts. I almost purchased a new kit this weekend, but who knows how old the kits on the shelf of my local shop have been there. I have no way of knowing if it is a fixed kit, or still an old kit.

If not, I'll just triple-coat the touching parts with Tamiya white primer and call it good.

BTW: My Moebius Chariot is very awesome. I wish to thank Moebius again for my collection of incredible kits!!!
 

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I had bad wheel meltdown and Moebius was the best company ever to deal with.....:thumbsup: Send them an Email with pictures and I think you will be well taken care of....... Make sure you use the Macro setting in your camera.....:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had bad wheel meltdown and Moebius was the best company ever to deal with.....:thumbsup: Send them an Email with pictures and I think you will be well taken care of....... Make sure you use the Macro setting in your camera.....:wave:
Thanks, teslabe.

I have minor melting on some non-noticable surfaces, and I actually like it because it looks like "weathering". I have no intention to get those parts replaced.
I'm in the middle of finishing the model and all I care about is making sure I don't have future melting issues after it sits on my shelf for a year. I figure I can get the new treads (or wheels) bought and not have any worries.

When I purchased it a year ago, I immediately took the treads/tires out and put them in a different baggie to stop further damage.

If new formulations exist, I just want to get those. It's been too long to ask for free stuff, just because I was lazy. But I do wish to purchase the treads if they are available.
 

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Thanks, teslabe.

I have minor melting on some non-noticable surfaces, and I actually like it because it looks like "weathering". I have no intention to get those parts replaced.
I'm in the middle of finishing the model and all I care about is making sure I don't have future melting issues after it sits on my shelf for a year. I figure I can get the new treads (or wheels) bought and not have any worries.

When I purchased it a year ago, I immediately took the treads/tires out and put them in a different baggie to stop further damage.

If new formulations exist, I just want to get those. It's been too long to ask for free stuff, just because I was lazy. But I do wish to purchase the treads if they are available.
Moebius is a fantastic company to deal with, if you have concerns, please let them know, I'm sure they would rather have you happy, then not.....;)
They have set the bar high for all other model companies to aspire too.....:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, again, teslabe!

I'm not unhappy. I absolutely love Moebius. I'm just doing some research to see if reformulations exist.........
 

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Thanks, again, teslabe!

I'm not unhappy. I absolutely love Moebius. I'm just doing some research to see if reformulations exist.........
I've got the impression that you are a good modeler in search of a tough question, this maybe a plastic/PVC incomparably issue. I insulated the hub from the tire with Kapton tape and it worked great......:thumbsup:
 

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It is a chemical reaction with the wheel and the tyre

The tyre is made I would say of vinyl and the chemical reaction with the plastic wheel. Dip the wheels in future floor polish after you have painted them and this will act as a barrier for the vinyl tyre.A coat of any varnish will do the trick. This is a common problem with aircraft kits.
HTH
 

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The tyre is made I would say of vinyl and the chemical reaction with the plastic wheel. Dip the wheels in future floor polish after you have painted them and this will act as a barrier for the vinyl tyre.A coat of any varnish will do the trick. This is a common problem with aircraft kits.
HTH
Would something like a Tamiya clear coat work?
 

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Basically there is no "factory" fix at this time. We have been going back and forth on this for a while, and the formulation of vinyl had changed to accomodate child safety testing. On styrene, this does melt. If there is a barrier, it's fine. One The Eye Gone Wild we eliminated the problem by chrome plating the wheels.

I know some of you will say that other companies haven't had this problem. And plenty haven't. Our tooling was set up for this particular material. Other materials shot into our tool on the tires doesn't come out well. Every other set rips with a non-conflicting material. If we had to do it all over we could change the tire enough to work with a softer material. But unfortunately we can't retool for a tire.

The only thing that can be done is to use a barrier when assembling wheels/tires. I have three of them in the office coming up on 2 years that show no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, Gentlemen!
I just picked up some Future (clear Pledge) for the Chariot canopy, and I will dip the wheel hubs in it, as well! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Basically there is no "factory" fix at this time. We have been going back and forth on this for a while, and the formulation of vinyl had changed to accomodate child safety testing. On styrene, this does melt. If there is a barrier, it's fine. One The Eye Gone Wild we eliminated the problem by chrome plating the wheels.

I know some of you will say that other companies haven't had this problem. And plenty haven't. Our tooling was set up for this particular material. Other materials shot into our tool on the tires doesn't come out well. Every other set rips with a non-conflicting material. If we had to do it all over we could change the tire enough to work with a softer material. But unfortunately we can't retool for a tire.

The only thing that can be done is to use a barrier when assembling wheels/tires. I have three of them in the office coming up on 2 years that show no problems.
Thanks so much for the info! The kit is amazing. I will use the simple barrier method. No problem! Watch for my pics post. I'll be done soon and will post pics.......
 

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A related question - Since I got my J2, I put the Charriot aside. I's almost finished but those treads are daunting.

How the heck do I get them on? What glue do I use? I cannot seem to pull the treads around the wheels and have them stay in place long enough to glue them.

Is there an exisiting thread for this? I needs me lottsa' help.

Thanks
Mark
 

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A related question - Since I got my J2, I put the Charriot aside. I's almost finished but those treads are daunting.

How the heck do I get them on? What glue do I use? I cannot seem to pull the treads around the wheels and have them stay in place long enough to glue them.

Is there an exisiting thread for this? I needs me lottsa' help.

Thanks
Mark



Not sure of the exact thread but if you go to the (search feature) of this forum and enter "chariot treads" there are 4 pages of build info there.
I didnt read them all but a quick look will no doubt turn up your answers
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A related question - Since I got my J2, I put the Charriot aside. I's almost finished but those treads are daunting.

How the heck do I get them on? What glue do I use? I cannot seem to pull the treads around the wheels and have them stay in place long enough to glue them.

Is there an exisiting thread for this? I needs me lottsa' help.

Thanks
Mark
Mark, I'm not there yet, but the instruction sheet says to soak them in hot water (not too hot) and they'll slide right on. I assumed this means they are so tight, you don't NEED glue. Am I wrong?
 

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Mark, I'm not there yet, but the instruction sheet says to soak them in hot water (not too hot) and they'll slide right on. I assumed this means they are so tight, you don't NEED glue. Am I wrong?
They are a tight fit. I believe Dave superglued all the builtups we have. Just be sure you put them on with the correct side out. We have had to replace a few sets due to them being put on inside out. Look close, you'll see what I mean.
 
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