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James,

Thanks for the great advice..... I spent some time with my axles last night while I was waiting for the kids to go to bed.... Santa won't come till they are asleep!

Anyways, I forced the plastic nuts on several times and the chucked them in my lathe. I squared them up and then cut down the 3/16 sleeve so the wheels fit without shimmimg the inside of the bearings..... got a great fit on one side..... will get to the other one after things settle down....

What size tires should I being using for setup? I know this is preference but looking for advice here.......

Barry
 

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I am working on my new 2.5...... just working on the t plate and putting the pivopt ball studs up through the floating bridge....

Question...... shouldn't there be some spacer in between the stud and the bottom of the bridge?

Barry
 

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I am working on my new 2.5...... just working on the t plate and putting the pivopt ball studs up through the floating bridge....

Question...... shouldn't there be some spacer in between the stud and the bottom of the bridge?

Barry
Barry,

Yes, i have been using one washer approx 0.050" on each stud before they go up thru the bridge. If not, there is not enough clearance and the tplate motion is restricted due to the 2-56 screws hitting the underside of the bridge. Shortening the 2-56 screws to be flush with the plastic ball socket will also help.

James or Dom, please chime in is there is a better way.

John
 

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Barry,

Yes, i have been using one washer approx 0.050" on each stud before they go up thru the bridge. If not, there is not enough clearance and the tplate motion is restricted due to the 2-56 screws hitting the underside of the bridge. Shortening the 2-56 screws to be flush with the plastic ball socket will also help.

James or Dom, please chime in is there is a better way.

John
I use these #6 washers (1 each) http://www.mcpappyracing.com/store/products/#6-Aluminum-Washers.html

and also cut down the 2/56 screws, i've also taken some material from the inside of ball socket to give more room for washer...

But James might have a better way... wait for his response... (I think he uses a smaller diameter washer?)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Yes, there are 2 gold washers included in the kit for this purpose. They are perfect for the pivot ball diameter. I think they are .030" thick if I remember right. I also take a teeny bit off of the upper pivot ball socket posts (shaved at an angle).

As for tires, I run 3 BSR pinks and a purple. 2.24" rears, 2.20" LF, and 2.18" RF. But that's just me.
 

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Guys

Thanks for the help........ I have muddled my way through most of this build.... most of it makes sense to me but I would prefer to ask. I had put the gold washers under the t-plate. Still have some alum washers I think....... will swap them then.

I did some searching last night..... I haven't looked at mine but could I have the short pivots? Seemes like 30thou is not enoough gap to make the rear pod flush with the chassis...... but it would get the pivot carriers up flush but raise the roll center.... guess I can do what I want to really..... but I appreciate the help. Will try one washer and then see.....

So James..... those are big tire sizes I would have thought..... now I have noo carpet experience but a local track guy set me up with some used BSRs he had and trued them to 2.15...... just ordered some WGT specs and they came at 2.20 approx..... now my calipers say 2.24! Hehehe


Any suggestions on ride height spacerrs? I can see two under your front end.... what size? Just looking for4 some expert advice here..... could get there.... but like advice

Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #27
This is how it should be for your Team Kit with the spring steel T-plate:
Gold washers are used with the pivot balls. This brings the pivot balls flush with the bottom of the chassis. Then aluminum washers will go in between the lower pod plate and the T-plate.
 

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Thanks for everyones help here.... I now have a gorgeous roller! It seems like everything is working together in harmony.

I did put the gold washers on the pivot stud and all is perfect. Did a little tweaking and I think it will be good. Settled on #2 axle locators.... a little high but that may change with the weight of the electronics. Still not certain on front spacers/ ride height but I think I am close.

Thanks again

Barry
 

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Been just drooling over my 2.5 roller for a day now..... can't wait to put electroincs on it. I keep looking at it and the closer I look the more design features I see!

This car is REALLY WELL DESIGNED! Now I am always one to change things for the better but I didn't find much to do.

I will say something that I found very helpful.... Micromesh pads..... they are very fine sand paper for polishing... like 12k to 30k grits. I know James swears by Simichrome but this stuff on my shock pistons made them just glide and my pivot balls and kingpins just move like I have never seen before. I know this is a wonderful car but I may be bias in saying this but this one is SMOOTH! Have my body coming tommorow so I will have more work to do..... still waiting on a new motor to drop in it.

Barry

A VERY happy McPappy owner;)
 

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:thumbsup:
Been just drooling over my 2.5 roller for a day now..... can't wait to put electroincs on it. I keep looking at it and the closer I look the more design features I see!

This car is REALLY WELL DESIGNED! Now I am always one to change things for the better but I didn't find much to do.

I will say something that I found very helpful.... Micromesh pads..... they are very fine sand paper for polishing... like 12k to 30k grits. I know James swears by Simichrome but this stuff on my shock pistons made them just glide and my pivot balls and kingpins just move like I have never seen before. I know this is a wonderful car but I may be bias in saying this but this one is SMOOTH! Have my body coming tommorow so I will have more work to do..... still waiting on a new motor to drop in it.

Barry

A VERY happy McPappy owner;)
 

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I used to use 1/8" axles all the time too. When I first started manufacturing these cars, I thought about switching my personal McPappy cars over to 1/8" axles. But then I realized that the 3/16" are much lighter as they are aluminum. 1/8" axles are usually steel. I've only found 2 titanium 1/8" axles. Lunsford's titanium axles were a bit too short and the outer bearing rides on the threads (not centered well). I ordered some T2C titanium front axles and they gave me steel, probably on accident, so I can't speak for those axles.

The only downfall that I've heard concerning 3/16" bearings is that they are less durable. Probably because they use smaller balls and can dent the inner race easier. Personally, I have not seen this to be the case. The last few years I've been racing with quality drivers and I don't hit things that often, so maybe I'm not the best judge of their durability. Lately, the only bearings that I find to go bad often are the rear bearings. ....
Merry Christmas everyone!
As a little anecdote, I've always run 1/8, but thought the new 3/16 CEFX axles looked kind of trick so I gave those a try. I had the left front bearing come apart 7 laps into the main. Can't remember any contact (I'd think it would have been memorable to be on the LF) so I was at a loss, and they came off the car. The ASC ones are probably better in that regard though as you get to run a larger nut on it rather than a button head screw and washer like the CEFX ones.

Should get the 2.5 on track tonight, looking forward to it!
 

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James.... same to you. ......... and may it be a great year for McPappy!

I am off to Greeneville to pop the cherry on this 2.5..... call me if you get a chance..... could use a couple tips

Barry
 

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Hello everyone,

Just to let everyone know... trip to Greeneville was a success. My 2.5 ran veery well. I was very impressed with the car...... even had several come by to look at it. It is a LOOKER anyways but performs very well. The car cornered like on rails..... wopuld only spin out if I hit the brakes hard in the corner. Had a few questions when I got back and James has been VERY helpful. I had the side shocks sticking and I think I have that fixed. Should be a little looser now. Can't wait to get it back out next weekend.

Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Good news, there's seems to be more people switching to McPappy than we had originally anticipated and we have sold out of our 2.0's and 2.5's kits. We have more carbon fiber in production as we speak and the estimated time frame for new kits will be Jan 17-18th.

Terry, no worries mate, your order will go out today :) You got the last one.
 

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Good news, there's seems to be more people switching to McPappy than we had originally anticipated and we have sold out of our 2.0's and 2.5's kits. We have more carbon fiber in production as we speak and the estimated time frame for new kits will be Jan 17-18th.

Terry, no worries mate, your order will go out today :) You got the last one.
I was talking to James today and I get the news of the success of the 2.5 in 2010/2011..... This is awesome, and I'm proud of this car and the company.
Having said that, I would like to formally apologize to all the McPappy faithful for my absence from the boards, and tracks. In truth, I really burned myself out last year and I was kind of needing a break from oval and all to do with it. So, now back in 2011, going to be doing more testing, more racing, and more ( HELP ) in the coming season. Please stay tuned, more things are on the horizon for McPappy.... PS, LOOKING so forward to Rome and SNOWBIRDS!!!!!!
 

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Good news, there's seems to be more people switching to McPappy than we had originally anticipated and we have sold out of our 2.0's and 2.5's kits. We have more carbon fiber in production as we speak and the estimated time frame for new kits will be Jan 17-18th.

Terry, no worries mate, your order will go out today :) You got the last one.
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Hey there guys looking for a little help im running a dart 1.0 in 17.5 truck that I picked up from jay harder the chassis is a little more solid than the one that came in the kit but my concerns are about the flex in this chassis I was thinking about cutting down to Accept 1 cell lipo only n get more flex bad idea? I believe dom u know the car.. any ideas would be great
 
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