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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First, I'd like to thank everyone for participating in the original McPappy Racing (2008) thread. I'm starting a new thread without a date in the title (this forum doesn't let me change the original title). The old 2008 thread still has a lot of valuable information. As of the time of this posting, it has 1614 replies and 142,924 views.

In our continual efforts to provide excellent products, I'm happy to announce the release of the McPappy Racing Dart 2.5!
McPappy on Facebook

New changes for the Dart 2.5 Kit
Last year, across the country, many oval pan car racers have been struggling with too much weight transfer to the right front, picking up the left wheels, or even traction rolling. This happened when the rules changed from 41 oz to 36 oz to accommodate the lightweight single cell LiPo battery. We went from the heavy NiMH 4-cell packs and 2-cell LiPos down to a single cell LiPo. No longer having the heavy packs keeping the left side of the car down, racers discovered these handling problems with most pan cars. When running a mere 36 oz, we lost a considerable amount of left side (and forward) weight percentage. This new Dart 2.5 was designed specifically to address these problems. This new 2.5 car will run flatter and turn harder. It provides more left side grip than ever before.
  • The Dart 2.5 offers an offset T-plate and now a super offset T-plate position. We removed the centerline T-plate position. This also moves some weight to the left even more (all 3 shocks, center shock mount, T-plate, float bridge, supporting hardware, etc.)
  • We shortened the wheelbase a lot with the Dart 2.5!. You can slide the wheelbase anywhere from 9.75" - 10.06" (as opposed to 10.03" -10.32" with the 2.0). A short wheelbase allows the car to turn hard. (Imagine how poorly a dragster would turn on an oval track.) Traditionally, a short wheelbase can make a car too squirrelly, but we were able to get away with this for a couple of reasons. First, we took advantage of the Dart's notoriously excellent rear grip. The Dart's ultra low rear roll produces more rear grip than other pan cars as it keeps more weight on the left rear in the corners. (On the scales pan cars can look similar, but if you could weigh the LR in the corner, you'd see there is more weight due to the physics of a low rear roll center.) Secondly, the front locator track width adjustments lets you fine tune how much weight gets transferred making handling changes easy. When the car is handling right, you can get away with a short wheelbase and take advantage of it's turning capabilities.
  • We shortened the "neck" of the chassis so that the carbon fiber flex braces are now the same size (2.55") as the clamp links (CRC or Associated) giving you lots of possibilities.
  • We added new rubber o-rings designed to work with the carbon fiber flex braces which eliminates all tweaking.
  • Both motor pod plates were lightened some more.
  • The left motor pod plate was designed to get easier access to the T-plate nut.
  • The LiPo strap brace was moved to the rear of the battery allowing the battery to move toward the LF wheel. This increased front weight percentage.
  • The left side of the chassis was moved out .100" to increase the left weight percentage and also taking advantage of the newest Protoform D-HD nationwide body.
  • We added new standoffs to flatten the angle of the side shocks. In our testing, this has proven to be better.
  • We added an extra front hole in front of the battery and filled in the carbon fiber near that area giving you lot's of options to use small carbon fiber braces (shown in more detail below)









We've released a Dart 2.5 Standard Kit and a Dart 2.5 Team Kit.
A comparison chart showing the differences of all of our kits is available here.

Merry Christmas!!
 

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:thumbsup:
Supertruck, if you are just going to get your game on in 17.5 truck, I suggest a Dart 1.0... There is prolly some around for sale, well maybe, but I will tell you that we have a few left in inventory at McPappy.... Sign in at McPappy.com ( you can just click at the bottom of my profile ) and James will hook you up.....

Anything you need, never be afraid to ask, we are always here to help....

Peter
 

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Supertruck, if you are just going to get your game on in 17.5 truck, I suggest a Dart 1.0... There is prolly some around for sale, well maybe, but I will tell you that we have a few left in inventory at McPappy.... Sign in at McPappy.com ( you can just click at the bottom of my profile ) and James will hook you up.....

Anything you need, never be afraid to ask, we are always here to help....

Peter

I would never run a $500 chassis in our truck class.....ill be moving up to the stock class soon, Now if we could run a 13.5 truck class with me Papo, Bill and and a select other few......that would be Super !!! :woohoo:
 

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James great job!

Guys this is a great new chassis, been running it for a couple weeks now... It takes all of that aggressiveness out of it... (on entry)

Ran a similar chassis we were working on at oval masters... It put me 7th in the show in stock 17.5... 2.5 is were it's at...
 

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James

Thanks for the great time on the phone today.....You are truly an exceptional guy with a WONDERFUL product. I can't believe how well thought out this car really is. I can't wait to get mine soon..... maybe Santa will have it under the tree this weekend :p:p:hat::hat::hat:

Thanks again...

Barry
 

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Package arrived yesterday, should be spending my lunch hour getting it put together. With the holidays though I won't be able to get back on track until next Thursday it seems. Gonna be a long wait.
 

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No, I've got too sensitive skin for that :)
Drywall sanding sponge took care of the the outside edges in a hurry last night. Now the inside edges might get neglected a bit.
 

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My pleasure. And yes, yours shipped today. You'll have it in 2-3 days. Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to you to James and the rest of the gang at McPappy.... I can't wait to get it.. I can't believe it was shipped an hour after it was ordered! Talk about FAST service!

BTW..... mine will build much slower..... I can spend a whole evening just getting a body cut and mounted right..... along with getting the posts just right. Hope to have it built for our next race on the 8th..... if I like it I may get crazy and go to Snowbirds. Haven't decided yet. Just back into this for a month after a 5 year break from racing. May give you a call sometime and chat..... thanks again James.

Barry
 

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Yea... Merry Christmas to all......

I have been a McPappy owner for 24 hours now.... Santa came early for me with a new 2.5 kit
 

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Can someone help me with the front axles? I have always used 1/8 axles on my cars before..... but my new 2.5 came with the AE 3/16 inlines..... do most use these or swap them for 1/8s?

If you use the 3/16s.... how do you get the plastic nuts on straight and make clean contact with the bearings? Do you need shims behind the bearings too? Do you use the set screws on the pretty polished kingpins?

Thanks and MERRY CHRISTMAS to all

Barrry
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used to use 1/8" axles all the time too. When I first started manufacturing these cars, I thought about switching my personal McPappy cars over to 1/8" axles. But then I realized that the 3/16" are much lighter as they are aluminum. 1/8" axles are usually steel. I've only found 2 titanium 1/8" axles. Lunsford's titanium axles were a bit too short and the outer bearing rides on the threads (not centered well). I ordered some T2C titanium front axles and they gave me steel, probably on accident, so I can't speak for those axles.

The only downfall that I've heard concerning 3/16" bearings is that they are less durable. Probably because they use smaller balls and can dent the inner race easier. Personally, I have not seen this to be the case. The last few years I've been racing with quality drivers and I don't hit things that often, so maybe I'm not the best judge of their durability. Lately, the only bearings that I find to go bad often are the rear bearings.

I believe it's more important to save weight everywhere possible on the car so that we can run as much tungsten as possible. So I've been very pleased with the light 3/16" axles. You will not need to use any shims as the McPappy locators will be the better way to adjust track width. As for the nut, I hear ya. That plastic nut is a pain in the butt. I push it on while using the nut driver and it goes on pretty straight most of the time. I also take it off and use an Xacto blade to trim off any plastic that bubbles up after you thread them on the first time. Most people do not use shims with these plastic nuts.
These plastic nuts are also an alternative.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000330796&I=LXBMG7&P=K

Personally, I use metal 5-40 locknuts like these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000330796&I=LXNTG1&P=K
I was lucky to get some aluminum ones from a friend who had them for 20+ years. It's impossible to find aluminum 5-40 locknuts these days. If anyone knows of any, let us know!

Merry Christmas everyone!
 
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