[Daniel_B]

Bumping this up because it's amazing and I want a set!

I should be finalizing all the artwork this weekend.

 

[Alien]

Daniel,

Great work and thanks for the link to the Backlight Film.
I will be getting me some of that film.

And I also love your slide film work.
I created the consoles for my 1/25th scale KITT from Knight Rider.
Even though you need a decent magnifying glass you can read all the text on the displays. You can't beat the resolution of a 35mm slide.
Sadly, these days there will be a dwindling number of companies who can print onto slide film. Everything is digital..

Alien

 

[Daniel_B]

Since I've been playing with making starship interior graphics, I figured I'd go full insanity. I made a bridge for the Revell 1:500 (though it's actually 1:1000) JJ Abrams Enterprise. I made the graphics in Photoshop and then printed them onto backlit film. I cut out the graphics, folded them into shape, and volia! A 1:1000 scale JJprise bridge.

 

[jheilman]

Loving this.:grin2:

 

[Hunk A Junk]

This is a cool enough idea that model manufacturers should take notice. There's no reason Round 2 or Moebius couldn't offer 35mm slide graphics as part of their accessory lighting sets.

Now I wish I'd waited to build my TOS bridge!

 

[Radiodugger]

Daniel B, that is beyond brilliant! I normally don't copy others' ideas, but this...you've given me ideas, Daniel...yesirree!

Doug

 

[FlyingBrickyard]

Since I've been playing with making starship interior graphics, I figured I'd go full insanity. I made a bridge for the Revell 1:500 (though it's actually 1:1000) JJ Abrams Enterprise. I made the graphics in Photoshop and then printed them onto backlit film. I cut out the graphics, folded them into shape, and volia! A 1:1000 scale JJprise bridge.

Needs more lens flare - turn those backlights up to 11! :grin2:

Amazing work, it's a brilliant idea, and the sort of thing I'd happily pay money for if it were sold as a finished product.

 

[SteveR]

(deleted: too late for lens flare joke)

 

[Hunk A Junk]

(deleted: too late for lens flare joke)

Lens flare jokes, like lens flares, are clearly intended to be over used. >

 

[WEAPON X]

Seriously Awesome detailing especially for the TOS Enterprise corridors.
Daniel_B, I would love to purchase a copy of your final product regarding the TOS Enterprise's bridge and corridor slides.

~Ben G. / NY

 

[FlyAndFight]

Great work, Daniel. Looking forward to seeing what else you can do with this idea.

 

[Daniel_B]

I've had some requests to also do backlit window inserts for the 1:350 TMP Refit/NCC-1701-A and the NX-01. Here is the artwork in progress of those.

 

[Hunk A Junk]

How do these look through the kit clear windows? On the refit, for example, I'd imagine the small round windows are too distorted to make seeing anything through them worth it.

 

[Daniel_B]

How do these look through the kit clear windows? On the refit, for example, I'd imagine the small round windows are too distorted to make seeing anything through them worth it.

Good question, I haven't tested it yet. I myself has been experimenting with this stuff in my windows instead of using the clear plastic inserts. So far it's working pretty well.

EnviroTex Lite® Pour-On High Gloss Finish


I have the Refit kit on hand, so I will try to finish up this artwork sometime soon and get it behind the windows to see. I do not however have a 1/350 NX-01 on hand, so I will need to get one somehow I guess to test fit those as well.

 

[SteveR]

Good question, I haven't tested it yet. I myself has been experimenting with this stuff in my windows instead of using the clear plastic inserts. So far it's working pretty well.

I used that stuff on my Smoothie tests, and it was pretty good.

I cut pieces from margarine lids, rubbed noise grease on the inside, then taped them to the outside of the hull before pouring the clear stuff from the inside of the hull.





How did you ensure that the outside of the hull was smooth?

 

[Daniel_B]

I used that stuff on my Smoothie tests, and it was pretty good.

I cut pieces from margarine lids, rubbed noise grease on the inside, then taped them to the outside of the hull before pouring the clear stuff from the inside of the hull.





How did you ensure that the outside of the hull was smooth?

I used normal scotch tape to block the windows from the outside. Then poured the mixture from the inside. I had to let it sit for 4 days to cure. Then I removed the scotch tape. Because the adhehsive of the scotch tape leaves an ever so slight texture on the outer "glass" I polished the outside with 2000,4000,6000,12000 sand paper to make it crystal clear again. In retrospect, it would have probably been easier to just use a NOVUS kit to polish it.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

 

[Hunk A Junk]

I'm using the same stuff for my refit windows, but even the clearer ones show lensing that make putting a transparency behind it kind of dicey.

 

[JGG1701]

Last weekend I did some artwork of the TOS and JJprise corridors in Photoshop to put behind my model's windows so it wasn't just a white void. I wanted to get the sense of something in there.

Extremely talented sir.
Do yo plan to sell a couple or half a dozen sets?:nerd:
-Jim G.G.

 

[Hunk A Junk]

Even if the hallways aren't as visible through the distorted resin windows, the bridge transparancies are still a brilliant idea.

 

[JGG1701]

Extremely talented sir.
Do yo plan to sell a couple or half a dozen sets?:nerd:
-Jim G.G.

Welllllllllllllllllllll?:wink2:
-Jim G.G.