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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I am racing soec class on a carpet oval track 4 cell 1600mAh battery as required and a trinity spec motor as required. It sure seems there are others racing the same car same battery and motor that are faster turning 5-6 more laps. What can I tweak to gain speed and remain legal. Can a spec motor be optimized? If so how. Last race I took 3rd over all but the other 2 guy constantly stomp everyone else inlaps and times..
Any helps appreciated
 

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gunlocators said:
5 amp charge 2.5 amp discharge
I hope you mean 25 amp discharge.

I used to run legends and I would charge my batterys at 5 amps and discharge at 25 amps. I would run trinity 4383 brushes in my motor and it seem to work pretty good. I would also use green springs on the motor.
 

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There are significant differences between spec motors and spec batteries.
Like any other brushed motor, some work better than others. You can do a few things to them but not much, that is the basic purpose of spec racing.
As I understand it and in my experience, the spec batteries are far from consistent. I had 3 different packs when I used to race spec and only one of them was really fast.

If you are losing in the corners you need to work on your chassis.
If you don't have to run spec tires, that is where I would start.
 

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If you are losing by 5-6 laps the motor and batts are the least of your problems. Work on the car until you are within 1/2 lap of them before you even think about that stuff. At most track the difference between stocks and modified is 5-6 laps. Something is very wrong with your chassis it sounds like. Does you car look as smooth as thiers going around the track? Do your lap times all get slower into the run or is there faster laps 3 mins in than the first minute?
 

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I ran a spec legends class and what I did to keep track of my batt's was number them and collect all of your races printouts and write down what batt you ran in that race. Then pick a respectable laptime (I RAN BETWEEN 3.8 TO 4.3 laps SO I PICKED 4.05 AND FASTER TO HIGHLITE) that you seem to run the most, then highlite the ones that are the same or faster. you will see a graph develope before your eyes and you can determine what packs are good for heats and one for mains. The more laps you go by without highliting lets you know when in the race your pack starts to drop off.
 

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I am goig to say this ONCE, chassis set up period. That involves tires, shock oils, springs, rool-out, etc. If a guy blows by you on the straight, its not his motor was better , its he didn't slow down as much through the turn as you did. Its all chassis set up :cool:
 

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I have to agree with Freddie on this, and expand it a little. I race at Freddie's and we use handout spec motors. The motors are rebuilt every 5 race days. Depending on how many racers show up and which motors are drawn, you could receive motors in various states of repair. I have NEVER felt I was plain out motored. Everything Freddie said is true and you need precise driving. Watch the top drivers, their line is the same each lap. Case in point. I was leading a heat Sunday, second place was .6 behind. To wide in a corner, .5. To shallow on the straight, .4. Cut the ice, .3. You get the picture. Work on set up. Try changes but remember where you started so you can go back if they don't work. Practice , practice, practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I practiced today. I took a full 1/2 sec of my normal times I ran several 5.59 sec laps. I was running 6 + sec laps consistantly. I started noticing I had to reduce speed in the turns a little because the car pushed toward the outside wall no matter how close I tried to ride the inside rail. I played with the spring tension and it helped a lot but its still not tweaked to my desire. I think I could hold my line a lot better if I was setup properly.
 
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