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Starship Class
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Thanks for showing that work on the saucer and your rig. Absolutely beautiful work on the saucer. :oops: You've taken it to the nth level there. Since the cutaway is a big improvement over the '66 AMT on the angle of the saucer edges, I didn't alter it as you did but now that I've seen your work I think I'm going to adjust that a bit.
 

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Starship Class
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If you don't mind, I have a couple of amateur questions about the casting process for the two halves of your engineering hull:

1. What brand fiberglass epoxy did you use?

2. Did you have to apply multiple light coats? Did the resin want to pool at the bottom?

3. Is the resin still plenty strong without the reinforcing cloth?



I do not, know were the time goes,but it has been 24 days since the last post. Hope everyone is doing fine. With the warmer weather here more time in mowing the grass etc have been taking my hobby time away. Between the chores I did get to work on the enterprise project. I decided to make a rubber mold of the secondary hull, in case I wanted to make the other sister ships. After I molds were made , fiberglass epoxy was brushed into the molds to make two light weight secondary hull shells. These shells were cleaned up and taped together to see what they would look like. The seams will be straighten out later before they are glued together. Here are a few pictures. View attachment 308483
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I don,t mind sharing the process at all. The epoxy resin I use is from BJB Enterprises in California. If you need the address I would be happy to look it up for you. This resin and cloth it what I use on my larger scale models. First you need to buy the white gelcote and brush this into the mold. The gelcote is thick like whipped cream.Does not run down the sides of the mold. I use two light coats to cover the mold. Let dry untell just tacky. Apply the white resin to the gel surface,then lay in one layer of 6oz cloth. The resin will run down some what and pool at the bottom of the mold. I just take a brush and brush up the extra resin from mold. When dry the shells are a lot stronger and lighter than plastic,and will not shrink and will not lose it shape. As far as just using the gel-coat and resin with out the cloth it would not be very strong and would crack easy. This is a longer process than just pouring the resin in the mold,but this makes some really super strong parts.
 

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Holy moly!! :oops::oops::oops: Thanks for the info and the pics of your other castings. FANTASTIC (y)


I don,t mind sharing the process at all. The epoxy resin I use is from BJB Enterprises in California. If you need the address I would be happy to look it up for you. This resin and cloth it what I use on my larger scale models. First you need to buy the white gelcote and brush this into the mold. The gelcote is thick like whipped cream.Does not run down the sides of the mold. I use two light coats to cover the mold. Let dry untell just tacky. Apply the white resin to the gel surface,then lay in one layer of 6oz cloth. The resin will run down some what and pool at the bottom of the mold. I just take a brush and brush up the extra resin from mold. When dry the shells are a lot stronger and lighter than plastic,and will not shrink and will not lose it shape. As far as just using the gel-coat and resin with out the cloth it would not be very strong and would crack easy. This is a longer process than just pouring the resin in the mold,but this makes some really super strong parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Been taking pictures of the top saucer, making a lot of changes and modifications. After I got deeper into this kit more I found out that more areas needed to be changed. I will post pictures of the top saucer
308835
area soon.For now a few pictures of the molded bottom saucer that was molded a few weeks back.
 

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This is great!!!!! You're putting my Cutaway to shame.😁
-Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Usually I am to tried to post pictures on the site,but tonight I thought that I better start posting a few to catch up pictures with the Enterprise project. The top saucer was now on my build table. First the original bridge had to be removed,as it was to big and the wrong shape
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