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Discussion Starter #21
Wow!!! that is a very beautiful build Jim! If mine turns out half that good I will be happy. I really like the paint colors.The light gray was always my favorite color for this model. What did you use to bond the saucer halves together,Tenax 7 R ? I never thought of using JB weld for the seams,I will have to try this next time. Your lighting looks great. Were did you get the lights for the warp engines? Sorry for all the questions,but you model look just like the 11 footer. This is what makes this hobby so fun is hearing from people and there seeing there builds. This does motivate me more now.Thanks for posting your pictures!
 

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Looks great! 馃憤 I like your attention to detail in the proportions. That really makes a difference in the final look of the ship. I've been piddling around with the same kit and had to sculpt a bridge and teardrop module.
 

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Wow!!! that is a very beautiful build Jim! If mine turns out half that good I will be happy. I really like the paint colors.The light gray was always my favorite color for this model. What did you use to bond the saucer halves together,Tenax 7 R ? I never thought of using JB weld for the seams,I will have to try this next time. Your lighting looks great. Were did you get the lights for the warp engines? Sorry for all the questions,but you model look just like the 11 footer. This is what makes this hobby so fun is hearing from people and there seeing there builds. This does motivate me more now.Thanks for posting your pictures!
Very pleased that you like it.
I used a combination of Tenax 7-R
, J B WELD, and Bondo for the seams. As far as the lights, I used LEDs that was on a wire strand of 10. The nacelles were lit up with a separate kit that was made for the Cutaway. I bought it a long time ago from Don's Light & Magic. I don't believe he's in business anymore since he passed away late last year.
If there's anything that I can do to help, please feel free to ask.:)
Thank you again for the compliment and the opportunity to be some kind of help.
-Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Jeff at JP Graphics told me awhile back about the Tenacontrols I don,t know if they will work in the 22 inch model or not. I will have to look into this later on. Does anyone know if somebody might still make accurate replacement parts for this model? This would save me a lot of work from scratch building the bridge etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks, Jim for the help. I did not know that JP Graphics made this parts. I can use some of these pieces for my build.
 

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IIRC, the shuttlebay hangar door area is also a little "smushed in." The deck needs to come out a little. The hangar doors are useless and can be replaced by one of the clear Bussard halves (1/4 sphere) on the cutaway nacelle and lines penciled on or engraved.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for telling me about the landing deck,I never noticed that the AMT model was a little to short. After looking at the pictures on the internet I decided to make the deck on my model a little longer this afternoon. I will post some more pictures soon. Thanks for the help PerfesserCoffee!
 

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Yeah, man. No problem. I'm assuming you've got solid replacements for the Bussard collector hemispheres--or at least for the one that's cut in half (do the recent kits offer an option?).

Thanks for telling me about the landing deck,I never noticed that the AMT model was a little to short. After looking at the pictures on the internet I decided to make the deck on my model a little longer this afternoon. I will post some more pictures soon. Thanks for the help PerfesserCoffee!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I have progress pictures that have been taken thru the last few weeks. Thought that I better post them before I get to far behind. Thru the last month of building this secondary hull, I been finding more areas that are not accurate. One was the front censor dish. To the pictures and plans that I had,the dish looked to flat. It needed more of a steeper angle. To do this .030 plastic strips were wrapped around the larger size of the dish. one of the strips was glue to the larger top of the dish,a second one below it. The second ring was a guide to apply the body filler. This would work as a depth gauge.
307532
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The second ring was to be removed with the lathe, which did not work at all. The dish came loose on the lathe,and put a chip in the third ring.The only way to remove the ring with a dremel tool. This was a real pain to do without hitting the third rind. After a half hour I did get the ring removed without hurting
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the dish or third ring.
 
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