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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I was watching the old Star Trek series,and got the idea of building the Enterprise 1701. I saw a lot of great builds on this model in HobbyTalk. I am very late on getting on this subject, but I thought that I would post a few build pictures as I moved along. The reason I chose the 22 inch model was because this size worked better for a display in my room. The polar lights 1/350 is a very nice model,and it is very accurate that I seem on a lot of posts. But I really do not have the room. I did buy two kits on ebay. One is the new AMT round two kit, and a older Amt 22 inch kit. After I looked over the two kits,I noticed The new round two model is made from a green plastic, A very nice kit which can be made into the cutway model or a full complete model. The older kit is all the same but it is made from a stiffer gray plastic. I liked this plastic better as it seems stronger. The windrows are molded in the parts,but are not in the right locations,which means you still have to fill in all the windrows and cut new ones. I chose the Round Two secondary hull as it had a smooth surface making easier to mark out the new windrows locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The older secondary hull. Molded in a gray and to me a stronger plastic. But does have the windrows molded in.( Even if they are in the wrong locations)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The first thing was to work on the secondary hull, Working from plans and photos on the internet was very help full. Also I read about other builders from past years that have built this model on hobby talk. This was a great help
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,as they talked about all the areas of the ship that needed to be reworked. There are some very outstanding works of art of this model that people have done thru the years. If mine turns out only have of good I will be happy! The windrows were drawn out on the model by using a pencil and straight edge. This toke a lot of work and time to try to get them placed in right locations. this was the first picture taken of the markings. this also was redone after this picture was taken,because this did not look right. But it was a place to start.
 

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Very nice so far, looking forward to this one, for a few reasons not the least of which is, I started on an identical project a few years back but never got back to it. I got Don Matthy's (RIP) resin upgrade parts and was underway re-cutting all the port holes, too, just like you. And I was trying to figure out how to better extend the front of the secondary hull, looks like you've got it conquered nicely...please continue to post.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I want to light up the model if possible. It is a lot of work cutting all the windrows, I guess I have a kind of a labor of love for the ship. Your are right Jim G.G It will need a armature for the model I was thinking of soldering a small brass armature running from the top of the inside of the bottom of the saucer, down the dorsal and the running down the inside of the secondary back. From there I thought about running small square brass tubing up the struts for support. Everthing would be silver soldered together. I don,t know if this will work, but for now it is just a idea. Here is a few more pictured.
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Discussion Starter #14
A strip of plastic was added to the front on the dorsal. The angle of the dorsal looked like it had to sharp of a angle. The plastic strips were glued to the front of the dorsal,then sanded down to a taper on the top. This seem to get the front of the dorsal to look more like the angle real ship. Anyway it was closer.
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Back to the project a little today. I noticed this morning when I sat the bottom saucer on top of the dorsal today, It seems like the front of the saucer had a slight down angle. Putting a straight edge against the front of the secondary hull to make sure everything was straight up and down and level. My lower saucer did have a down angle. After looking at the top of the dorsal surface I could see it was not level. The height of the dorsal was also to short, so a spacer was made to fit on top of the dorsal to correct this.
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The spacer was a little under 1/8 inch thick. The spacer was made with a upper taper toward the front. This leveled up the saucer real nice when attached to the secondary hull. It maybe this little flaw was just on my model,and not in other people kits,I don,t know.
 

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The body of the secondary hull was a little short.I added a 6/32 spacer in front of the rear engine up rights would attach. I should have taken pictures but I forgot to do this thinking that I had all ready done it. Here is a shot after the hull is back together,and in primer.
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Back to the project a little today. I noticed this morning when I sat the bottom saucer on top of the dorsal today, It seems like the front of the saucer had a slight down angle. Putting a straight edge against the front of the secondary hull to make sure everything was straight up and down and level. My lower saucer did have a down angle. After looking at the top of the dorsal surface I could see it was not level. The height of the dorsal was also to short, so a spacer was made to fit on top of the dorsal to correct this. View attachment 307290 The spacer was a little under 1/8 inch thick. The spacer was made with a upper taper toward the front. This leveled up the saucer real nice when attached to the secondary hull. It maybe this little flaw was just on my model,and not in other people kits,I don,t know.
If I remember right , mine had the same problem.
I filled the gap with J B WELD. Did the same thing with other gaps as well. Used Tenax 7 R to fuse the styrene together, especially the saucer sections.
You're doing GREAT with this build!
Hopefully this link will motivate you even more:


- Jim G.G.
 
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