I use a flat steel plate with masking tape on it to get it flat JB wont stick to the tape, grind the ends to be glued and butt the 2 cars together, after its dry, then I put some tape on the outside off body and more JB on the inside of the cars around wheel wells, the tape makes a good mold, I jb all the indide holes and part of the side windows, tape up the side again and fill it in with bondo, I use a tinning agant so the bondo runs into the shape, again the tape makes a good mold for the sides, I need a little extra bondo and I ruff sand with 100 grit to make the shape, I file out the window size I need. It has some primmer on it but I wont get to work on it for 2 weeks to finish up with some more pics
looking nice! i got a question however...why dont remodelers solder/braze the parts together. ive seen it done on diecast before, of course it is can be difficult without a microtorch(luckily i have one) and can be done with normal flux and solder...basically doing the same thing the true body men used to do back in the day via "leading"
i think the regular solder will not "stick"...and the heat needed for other solders will be too much for the zamack(it will warp or melt)...so i've been told
ive seen some videos of it done with a micro torch(flame can be about 1/8in wide or less) and didnt have any warpage...im sure solder will stick to zamac fairly easily if prepped correctly and solder is used correct. when using a flame and solder you can very easily "burn" the solder and it wont stick to anything.. i may try this once i get new lines and my acetylene bottle filled.
let me know how that turns out...over on HWC there are numerous threads about soldering zamack...mostly with the results i stated above...if you get it to work, please let us know or do a "how to" thread:thumbsup:
Once around the park James{ I mean Gene LOL} better make it "TWICE":thumbsup::thumbsup:
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