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Discussion Starter #1
I'm at this stage in my big PL E.

How have builders been painting this?

I'm trying to decide if it should be a light/dull red mist over sprayed with hull color or a fine shading powder sealed with a clear coat.

Any thoughts? Other ideas?

Also has anyone done the measurements for masking the area? I don't want re-invent the wheel.

Thanks.

Mark
 

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On my 1/1000 E I made a paper template, cut out the shape and used some rust colored powder scraped from a pastel stick.

Looked pretty good, and since it was on a flat paint it adheres well. Being powder, it had that varying density quality instead of a solid band.

Worked for me.
 

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On my 1/1000 E I made a paper template, cut out the shape and used some rust colored powder scraped from a pastel stick.

Looked pretty good, and since it was on a flat paint it adheres well. Being powder, it had that varying density quality instead of a solid band.

Worked for me.
This technique is the one I saw most in model railroading recommended techniques and the primary components of a lot of rusting kits. :cheers2:
 

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On my 1/1000 E I made a paper template, cut out the shape and used some rust colored powder scraped from a pastel stick.

Looked pretty good, and since it was on a flat paint it adheres well. Being powder, it had that varying density quality instead of a solid band.

Worked for me.
How do you "fix" the powder to the surface so it won't come off later? I sometimes clean my models with a little soapy water & a toothbrush, and it seems like the powder would come off.
 

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How do you "fix" the powder to the surface so it won't come off later? I sometimes clean my models with a little soapy water & a toothbrush, and it seems like the powder would come off.
Use a clear coat over it to seal it, flat, matte or gloss. I have used a similar technique with charcoal on a Space:1999 Eagle and got great results. You can achieve very subtle variations in shading using powders for weathering.

 

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There are 3 ways. As above use a sealer. 2nd apply the 'powder' to still wet paint surfaces. And 3) apply the powders first and paint over it to give a textured finish.

Some modelers also used real rust - as formed (found) or ground down in a morter/pistle to make their own rust powders.

:cheers2:
 

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Get yourself a box of light colored pastels...A light brown will do the job.

Mask the area off.
Ground some of the light brown pastel on to rough grit sandpaper.
Use a soft brush and thrill it into the pastel mix you just made.

Gently "paint" it into your rust ring area.

Carefully remove the mask.

You have a rust ring.

Spray some clear flat(from a little distance) and seal it in.
If not to your liking,repeat the process...be careful a little goes a long way. you don't want it too dark.
 

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Or, you can do what I often do: just forge ahead and do it, cheer if it works, curse like a drunken sailor if it doesn't and try to figure out how to fix it.

Works for me. Sorta. Sometimes.
We might be twins :grin2: I SAY to try it on scrap first, but I too throw caution to the winds and just do it on straight on the model, sometimes to much cursing and consternation (the cursing comes first). But, as I always say to no one ever, FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BOLD!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, here is what I came up with.

I measured the arcs, traced the pattern on some blue tape, cut out the template and I was off to the races.

You know the old saying "measure twice, cut once"?



Soooo, this is what happens when you subtract the radius instead of adding.

Lucking rubbing alcohol took it off.

Rust ring phase 2:

I cut a new template using 2 sheets of clear label taped together. This worked great because the template is large and the tape gives a good marker for the center. It makes lining things up easier.






Some adjusting is needed to get the template down and even.



Once down I used cheap covergirl makeup. I think it was $7.99 at the drug store.



And the results:



It's slightly darker than I need it to be, but it should lighten up under clearcoat.

Thats the plan anyways.
 

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Looks like you are off to a good start of the plan.

O/T technical question - is the moisture in space the same as the H2O water we have on Earth? Or is oxidation a different process in vacumn? :lurk5:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I took Rossw's advice and did a test shot on some sheet plastic.

before clear coat:



After a clear coat:



It actually looks a bit darker.

Hmm, that didn't work.
 

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Can you airbrush a light coat of light brown paint? Pastels are nice for weathering, but not so much for large areas of solid color. Airbrushing will give you more control, and it'll be easier to feather the ends. Plus if it's too dark, you can dust coat the hull color over it to blend it better. It needs to be subtle:


http://www.inpayne.com/models/trek/pltoselit1-08.jpg



It's not really supposed to be a ring of actual rust - there's no rust on a painted spaceship - just a "rust colored" ring of unknown purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks John,

The quick answer is yes and no.

My paint booth of buried behind a bunch of junk.

For the last year I have been stuck with using Tamiya cans.

I hope to be back to airbrushing this spring, but If the color is available the Tamiya cans are great!

And I love your big E!
 

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The "rust ring" or dirt ring is a clear burnt sepia and has defined inner and outer concentric edges but no clearly beginning and end points. It should fade into a very light sepia as it goes approaches the port and starboard running lights and fade away to nothing as you go aft past the running lights.
 

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