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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everyone's reaction to my recent build has really got me motivated to continue with my backlog. I picked up (for dirt cheap somehow) an old "Lights and Sounds" version of the ERTL Refit for $18 a few months back. I already purchased some Acreation strongbacks, DLM decals for the pin-striping etc but then I started to research this puppy and now I'm seriously worried.

I started researching other people's builds and to do this thing right I'd have to at a minimum:

1. Sand everything down to reduce the fake paneling
2. Spend $70 on DLM corrected parts, chillers and extra window ports
3. $50 - Purchase all new lighting supplies since the kit's are horrible by today's standards.
4. $45 - Purchase something like the Starling Tech nav/strobe board for the blinkers.
5. $40 Tamiya Pearl White cans, primer and other paints

So that brings my total investment up around $240 :drunk:

Now I can spread this project out over time so it's not such a huge hit but I have to ask is this kit worth that much time/money? I really wanted a 1/537 scale to go with my Reliant, and I have no room for the beautiful 1/350.
 

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Well, my say is yes.
I got the STV one recently for about the same price, and I'll be doing all the new parts from scratch (except for the upper & lower domes, I had extras left over from a Reliant model that I turned into a Bozeman), and will be doing all the lighting with bits from Radio Shack, standard paints, aztecing by hand.
I expect it to come in around at around $70 by the time I'm done, spread over a few months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, my say is yes.
I got the STV one recently for about the same price, and I'll be doing all the new parts from scratch (except for the upper & lower domes, I had extras left over from a Reliant model that I turned into a Bozeman), and will be doing all the lighting with bits from Radio Shack, standard paints, aztecing by hand.
I expect it to come in around at around $70 by the time I'm done, spread over a few months.
It's a build-off! But that's great and $70 isn't bad considering you can make the parts yourself. I am thinking about how to minimize costs like forgoing the strobes/nacells and just have steady leds for nav and strobe lights. Might even do cheap alternating finishes of white and lay down testors pearl clear lightly over the topcoat.
 

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Might even do cheap alternating finishes of white and lay down testors pearl clear lightly over the topcoat.
I'm playing with the idea of painting it to resemble Enterprise inside V'Ger with lots of blues. But I'll probably do in space, mostly greys except for the lighted areas. I *MAY* even punk out & not light it at all & do everything with paint effects like I did with my AA toy:




That was an experiment that turned out quite well for the itty bit of time I put into it. Course, it also lights up a little bit itself.
 

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All depends on the color lipstick you use! :lol:
Hal, don't mess about! This is a huge undertaking. A lot more work (but less paint) than the 1/350 PL Refit.
Personally, I've seen perfect versions of this kit, and the PL one, and I yearn to do something just a little bit differently...:thumbsup:;)
 

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I had fun with mine. I mean, it looks like the Enterprise unless you are really hung up on accuracy issues. When this was all there was, it did the job and being electronic-illiterate, it was perfect for me! When I painted the blackout coat on the inside I masked off the areas for the light spills on the hull and sprayed it black. On the outside I created a matching mask and sprayed the outer hull gray. Next I painted random panels with white and after final assembly, I removed the light spill masks and painted the whole outer hull gloss white. The gray/white pattern evened out to a subtle, though inaccurate, aztec pattern. When the lights were turned on, the masked areas looked pretty nice with the lights below shining through.
 

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Hal, don't mess about!
Metaphor for depending on how far you want to go with it Chris. Sanding it smooth, is it worth it? "depends" on how good you want it to look. Yes, it would look better, much better, but that's a lot of sanding to get rid of those panels. I've seen it done though.

I would suggest trying to find a smooth version being he got this one so cheap and use the electronics out of it. Yeah, pricey but may be more attractive for 'ole smoothie' in the end and then build it OOP. I just got one not long ago on eBay and only paid 30 bucks for it.

My plan was to sand mine down but then I got a smooth one. I studied the panel version and decided myself to build it as is. Just wasn't willing to sand those relatively thick panels. May not take as long as it looks. But once you start you're committed. But that's just me.

It's a question he'll have to answer himself.

hal9001-
 

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Never crossed my mind to paint on the spot-lighted areas. That looks sweet! Very nice, Chrisisall. And hot pink lipstick goes over really big here in Iowa. Just sayin'.
 

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About a month or so ago I got one for 30-35 bucks on eBay Chris. Ratty box but who cares.
Yeah -- the high prices are for the collectors who want the nice box. Not us!

I have a Smoothie on the bench ... since 1980 ... (here's the dryfit)



... but I added the DLM parts, and it looks good so far. I moved some windows around and thickened the pylons. It think that what you're doing will be worth it.

Maybe do the rough sanding in front of the tube? Then switch off when you get near the bottom. Maybe spray the whole thing black, just so you can see when you need to stop sanding? Or do it by feel. You probably knew that. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
About a month or so ago I got one for 30-35 bucks on eBay Chris. Ratty box but who cares. It's what's inside that counts!

Keep tryin'. Isn't diligence a virtue? :D

hal9001-
Wow the cheapest I've seen on ebay is $60 + $20 shipping which makes it just too expensive. The current crop were going for $90 starting. Glad you found the lucky one.

It's a challenge, and isn't that half the fun? Doing something great with something ordinary?:thumbsup:
That's true and pretty awesome idea to paint the spotlight areas.

Yeah -- the high prices are for the collectors who want the nice box. Not us!

I have a Smoothie on the bench ... since 1980 ... (here's the dryfit)



... but I added the DLM parts, and it looks good so far. I moved some windows around and thickened the pylons. It think that what you're doing will be worth it.

Maybe do the rough sanding in front of the tube? Then switch off when you get near the bottom. Maybe spray the whole thing black, just so you can see when you need to stop sanding? Or do it by feel. You probably knew that. :)
Wow now that's a loooooong build ;) If I do decide to smooth her out I'm going to just try to reduce the paneling and hope priming it helps fill it in more. I don't like it but I also don't want to sand through the plastic either. (I know myself!)
 

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I picked it up for the electronics, with the plan of putting a modified TOS cutaway on the stand (I think I still have the fixin's for that scheme). Since the sounds are all TOS in origin anyway, it seemed the way to go.
 

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I picked it up for the electronics, with the plan of putting a modified TOS cutaway on the stand (I think I still have the fixin's for that scheme). Since the sounds are all TOS in origin anyway, it seemed the way to go.
Captain April is right! The sounds are from the TOS. I've always wondered whay they did that. :confused:

I've got four or five of the Special Issue to use on my TOS Es. Would have been just as easy I would think to have used the correct movie sounds. :freak: Weird!

hal9001-
 

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I don't like it but I also don't want to sand through the plastic either.
I tell ya, try spraying it all black (or gray), then sand by feel, with the occasional visual check to see if you've hit the black trenches yet -- at the end, you should see a fine black grid over the model, then you use a finer grit to smooth it all out and remove the grid. Take your time.

BTW, our fingertips can discern a difference in depth (or texture) of 200 micrometres, or about .008".
 
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