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Discussion Starter #1
HI ALL did anyone else have a problem getting this figure thing down ?all i have really done is cars and some weird=oh stuff. spiddy was my first real kit i guess you can say and im ok with the way the paint came out but the seams killed me in the back MY FAULT test fitted the parts as they go together but not as a whole so i am treating this weird oh to the works if i can do it on that i should be able to do it on the GG


it looks ok from the front it will be up on a dresser in the corner with the GG on the other side i will get this thing down yet or i will go broke and krazy first LOL
 

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Curmudgeon
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6,614 Posts
Learning curve time? :lol: I've been building models for 40 years and I'm still learning!

Seriously, if you get stuck on how to deal with a particular issue there are countless talented modelers here who will be more than willing to offer their suggestions, but if you ask 10 different modelers the same question you're likely to get 10 different answers; most of the modelers I've spoken with over the years have honed their skills through trial and error, and everyone has their preferred methods. The best way to get better is build, build, build. Remember, you're not failing, you're practicing!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
THANKS ALL my first thought was to go out and get another one but when i calmed down the back wont be seen where it is going and i can compare it to the next one whice will look better i hope THANKS AGAIN
 

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Lifetime Monster Modeler
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4,124 Posts
Roadflea,

I use either AVES Apoxy Sculpt or Squadron White Putty (less shrinkage with white) to fix deep seams. It isn't that hard to cover them. Just take your time. Also, I used Testors Tube putty on real small stuff cause it has a nice application tube to get into the cracks with.

Don't get frustrated....that is also part of the fun. Don't be afraid to try stuff...especially with plastic.

MMM
 

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Oh and the Tamiya white and grey liquid filler/putties are excellent. You can also wipe them down with Tamiya's new plastic safe lacquer thinner. Regular lacquer thinner can craze and soften model plastic but the tamiya stuff won't. So you can slather the putty on, let it sit a bit, and then rub it down with a piece of cloth wet with thinner.
 

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Returning a little of much that has been given

As a returning newbie myself, might I offer a few things? I know how you feel, Roadflea. Plastic figure kits are tough for me too but I’m constantly learning with each new kit I do.

First:
Don’t give up; keep right on building and have fun doing it. I’ve learned so much from everyone here in the short time I’ve been on the forum. The guys here are fantastic and have always offered help and advise anytime I needed it so don’t hesitate to call on them.

Second:
Check out this thread in case you missed it:
https://xenforo.local.svc.cluster.local/threads/261148/
While the kit is different, the techniques are the same.

Third:
Sometimes we don’t give ourselves enough credit for what we can do. That’s why I started this: https://xenforo.local.svc.cluster.local/threads/275361/
Check it out too. I’d like to know what all you did accomplish with your modeling this year.

Hang in there buddy! You’re not by yourself I assure you.

A.U.
 

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ThanX for posting that Arc!

Roadflea, now that you know where the seams are, I would suggest maybe stripping the paint with Easy-Off oven cleaner and then using a 1/2 round file and 320-600 grit sandpaper to try and match the height of the front and back of the shirt.

Looking at the kit, I think your hardest seam line is around the neck & face as they are also part of the "Webbing" detail of the costume. Again, here I would file down against the seam line, moving from the highest point to the lowest point until both seams line up flat. Be careful not to remove the "web" depressions or you will have to re-scribe them in with the back of your hobby knife.

As a suggestion, I would try using files and sandpaper to match up the plastic before you consider using putty and filler. Fillers are good for when you have holes, sink marks or other imperfections. Seam lines can usually be filed off, scraped with a hobby knife or sanded down with sand paper.

However, if this sounds like too much work, I would simply add a second coat of red and blue paint to hide the "White" plastic parting lines on the kit and then tell people that those seam lines are where the shirt is sewn together....because, in essence, it's true!
 

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Curmudgeon
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6,614 Posts
Zombie_61 said:

"Remember, you're not failing, you're practicing!"

I like that!
Sounds like a good motto.

Should be on a t-shirt...
I'd love to take credit for it, but I'm quoting Canadian modeler Scott Girvan who said it in one of the videos posted on his Scale Model Addict website (in which he video documents his "Red 3/Red 6/Death Star" diorama build using two modified/accurized MPC X-Wings and a scratch-built base). I thought it applied to our hobby (and could be applied to any aspect of life in general, I suppose) so there you have it. Hopefully we learn at least a little something from every mistake we make.
 

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Modeler's Brand
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2,376 Posts
...Hopefully we learn at least a little something from every mistake we make.
Yup. I look at every model I build as practice for the next one. I never worry about screwing one up, because the lessons learned on that mistake will make the next one that much better.

Adopting this viewpoint may take some stress off your shoulders. Me, I know I'm gonna screw up something, so that leaves me free to experiment. When I've got some notions for a model that I've got coming up on deck, I try implementing that notion on a current build. Practice, practice, practice!

Definitely watch Scale Model Addicts stuff! In my case, I go out of the way to show off my mistakes, so have a glance around my channel too, if you are so inclined. http://www.youtube.com/user/ModelManTom
 
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