Congratulations to Leading Edge Drivers at the latest BRL race.
I've not noticed much setup info in this thread. I realize that some racers are very protective of their setups. It would be nice to see some base setups for the different classes and different chassis that LE makes. I don't think anyone needs to post their TQ setup, but more like a starting point for different sized tracks. Something like if I raced at a 100' flat carpet oval, I'd start with this setup.... I think this info might be useful if posted in this forum.
Thanks, Brian Smith
ps. I chose 100' simply because that is a nice round number and not because I want/need a setup for that sized track.
Oldguy, I think you are missing the point of my post. I think everyone has a safe setup that they fall back on. I realize that the safe setup might vary slightly from track to track. However, there are always going to be a similar starting point on a high bite flat oval when running 4300 brushless, whether it be 100' or 170'.
To be more specific, what is a good starting point for a LE Executioner running on a smooth flat carpet oval?
I'm not a LE driver, but wanted to share an experience I had dealing with Dave Whitesel.
I approached Dave to cut a custom chassis for the Indy Velodrome. The file that I provided him wasn't exactly what he needed for his CNC software, which meant that he needed to do quite a bit of work to cut the chassis. Not only did he fit me into his schedule, but was very fair with the cost of the work. Any time that I have interacted with Dave, he has been very helpful even if the questions I had weren't directly about a LE chassis.
My experiences with Dave helped me in making a choice to buy a new LE chassis.
Tried out my Executioner in 13.5 brushless last night at New Castle (Indiana). Car was pretty good "out of the box". 1st qualifier was a bit rough due to tires too tall/ride height too high so I only go 66 laps. 2nd qualifier was much better at 73 laps, but still had some handling issues. 3rd qualifier I got 74 4:02 after making some minor shock/spring adjustments.
With very little effort or track time I got the car up to speed and rotating through the turns. Was running consistant 4.0s with a few 3.9s using a brand new out of the box 13.5 motor (non upgraded rotor)!!!
I'm running an Executioner and will use it with 13.5 or 4300. I decided to mount my GTB on the right side of the chassis. I removed the cooling fan first. I ended up placing the speed controller on the right rear as close as I could to the t-plate without it interfering with pod movement and as far back without hitting the chassis brace. I positioned the speed control with the motor/battery wires facing to the left of the car and parallel to the t-plate. This mounting position also places the wiring harness side facing the right side of the chassis and the side with the indicator lights facing to the rear.
I routed the battery wires under the center shock. I used a small piece of heat shrink tubing on both the red/black wires where they went directly under the center shock to keep them from moving around excessively. I left them a bit long as I prefer to connect my batteries as far left as possible in case I need to solder them on with the body on the car.
I routed the motor wires over the pod to the motor. The advantage of where I located the speed control was that I could see the ABC label on both the speed controller and the motor from the left side of the car. Since this was the first time I've used a brushless motor, this was a bit of a bonus. Again, I used a bit of extra wire length with the motor wire to avoid any chance of the pod binding and to prevent any stress on the circuit board.
I routed the motor sensor wires in front of the motor underneath the cross brace. I'm not really happy with the way this looks, but I was in a rush to get the car on the track. Make sure you use the included sensor wire management that comes with the GTB to protect all the wires.
The wiring harness for the receiver was a bit ackward. Even though it was a long cable, it didn't reach neatly to the receiver. I have the receiver on the front of the battery tray. The receiver harness needed to go from the right rear to the left front, so there wasn't any great way to do this. I may go back and shoe-goo the harness wire to the chassis to give it a cleaner look.
I did not remove the GTB capacitor. I mounted it to the chassis just in front of the speed controller using servo tape. I didn't give the tape enough time to set and the capacitor popped of during racing. I may end up using shoo-goo to mount that more permanently to the chassis.
I'll try to dig up my digital camera and post a photo of my car and speed control. I won't say that it is the cleanest solution in the world, but it looks okay. I wouldn't say that having the speed control on the right side hurt me as I was turning good laps on my first time out.
The Executioner took 1-2-3 at New Castle with Yokman getting a good 75 lap run in the main. He probably would have been 1-2 seconds faster if he hadn't laid back at the end to let Chad Humble and myself battle for 2nd.
Maybe if I used my Executioner and some 4200 batteries I would beat Chad by a larger margin in 6-cell stock NASTRUCK than I have been with my 10L3 and 3800's.
Actually Chad's car was giving me a good run in the NASTRUCK main. I think once he figures out how to best tune his stock motor for the Velo he will be faster than I have been. Plus it would have helped if the yahoos at the track hadn't broke his transmitter throwing around a football.
Cable mesh can be found in Indy at Frys Electronics in Fishers, IN just North of 96th street at the I-69 exit. Just look in the computer wiring section for it.
I also found some plastic wire management that is just a very little bit bigger than what comes with a GTB speed control. It was in the XBOX section of the store and came in neon pink, green, and orange.
Here is an example:
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