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My father has a 2 stroke lawnboy 2 stroke with the walk your pace handle operated self propelled (about 10 years old). It seemed to be "tight" when pulling the cord the first time but started. It stayed going for half the lawn cut (abt 15 min) then started to loose power and slow down. I sensed a problem and shut it down. I checked to see the gas was mixed properly and it was. I then thought maybe the exhaust port was clogged, it wasn't. I then moved the blade around to see if it was really tight and to see compression. It appeared to go around smooth till tdc and it felt a little "grindy" Does this sound like I have a big repair on my hand? I think this is linked to the problem as the mower seemed to be overly hot this time when I shut it down.

Thanks for your input.
...Rob Ramm
 

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One cannot visually tell if the the gas/oil mix was of the proper ratio. That should be verified at the time of mixing. I use a synthetic 2-cycle oil that covers all mixture ratios. When you turn the blade by hand do you have the blade brake engaged? If so the grinding may be due to the brake being in contact with the flywheel. Have you checked to make sure none of the cooling fins are clogged with debris? This could contribute to overheating. The flywheel moves air around the cylinder to cool it. If the mixture has been a bit lean, that can cause scoring of the cylinder walls due to lack of lubrication and pretty much toasts the engine. If it is tight when pulling the rope, I'm thinking there may be an internal issue. Just my opinion. I am sure one of the more experienced guys will chime in.
 

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By the title of your topic I assume the mower will restart after it cools.If so there is a good chance the ignition module is faulty.
I would run it until it gets hot and quits and immediatly check the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One cannot visually tell if the the gas/oil mix was of the proper ratio. That should be verified at the time of mixing. I use a synthetic 2-cycle oil that covers all mixture ratios. When you turn the blade by hand do you have the blade brake engaged? If so the grinding may be due to the brake being in contact with the flywheel. Have you checked to make sure none of the cooling fins are clogged with debris? This could contribute to overheating. The flywheel moves air around the cylinder to cool it. If the mixture has been a bit lean, that can cause scoring of the cylinder walls due to lack of lubrication and pretty much toasts the engine. If it is tight when pulling the rope, I'm thinking there may be an internal issue. Just my opinion. I am sure one of the more experienced guys will chime in.
Thanks for the reply all.
Rentahusband, you gave me a bit of a hint and I was able to fix it I think. It was the brake grinding. This probably contributed to the overheating as you could probably imagine. I bought a new cable for the ignition kill bail. I managed to pull the brake off and it cut the lawns with no problem. I just have to get this cable on now. Any thing I might run into when changing? I see there is a real strong spring holding the switch/brake closed. Will I have problems compressing this by hand in order to get the ball end of the cable in the slot?
Thanks again,
...Rob
 
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