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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The process of building up the dome continues. This is the first sanding.
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Checking the profile to the screed blade.
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Creamier self leveling filler is applied.
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Then sanded and blended in.
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Red filler is added to fill in scratches an shallow dips in the surface.
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As the dome cures, back to the saucers base. Here a centering jig is installed to make sure everything aligns when I put it all back together.
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The saucer's base is then fill with resin. This will support its shaped and give it strength for the vacuum form process when making the hull parts.
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just a little more to go.
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With the base slightly over-filled, this allows me to feather the resin into the shape of the hull.
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Next, I start to stack the upper saucer back together....
 

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This is exciting!
A true labor of love.
- Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well, The remaster of the upper primary hull half is done!

The layers and layers of filler to raise and reshape the dome.
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First coat of primer...
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After a few tweaks in sanding, filler, and more sanding, it's finished. This image shows the new dome profile, and the downward taper of the edge ring using the screed blade as a reference.
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Thinking about what to tackle next... looks like fixing the shape and detail of the nacelle struts.

Tracy
 

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Well, The remaster of the upper primary hull half is done!

The layers and layers of filler to raise and reshape the dome.
View attachment 311444

First coat of primer...
View attachment 311445

After a few tweaks in sanding, filler, and more sanding, it's finished. This image shows the new dome profile, and the downward taper of the edge ring using the screed blade as a reference.
View attachment 311446

Thinking about what to tackle next... looks like fixing the shape and detail of the nacelle struts.

Tracy
Beautiful! Beautiful! Nicely done! I love your skillset and your attention to detail, Tracy! Looking forward to the neck and its 20 plates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Oh, that's already done dude!... You need to revisit page one of this thread. And it's not 20, it's 41. You forgot to add the spacer plates.

All the hand cut plating is done for the neck, the nacelles, and the nacelle conduit blister.

Tracy
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The Nacelle Struts are next. These parts are badly shaped, and lack a LOT of detail. I will be starting on these very soon...
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After finishing the new masters, I will be making molds, then casting them with brass tubing for wiring, and steal rods to give them strength to prevent sagging.

Tracy
 

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Very nice work on this, Tracy. It is fun following your progress on this project. Your work in fabricating the new parts and rebuilding old parts into a more accurate reflection of the studio model is exceptional. This has definitely piqued my interest in pulling out my own kit that I bought from Mike back in the 90's and giving it a go. Maybe I can apply my new-found skills at 3D printing to create some new parts for mine and finally get it into shape.

Keep up the great work!
 

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This started out with a few parts from the old Lunar Models kit as a base, but so much has been changed and corrected using detailed images of the studio model during its NX configuration, it is no longer anywhere near the same kit. A complete re-shaping of major sections that includes profiles, lengths, widths, and comparative size ratios from one hull section to another has all been corrected. The 'masters' will allow new hull sections to be vacuum formed in clear very much like Trek studio models were made at ILM.
The Excelsior was started in 2013, worked on through 2018, then shelved for a couple of years - Life gets in the way...
I recently started picking at it again with collaboration with a 3D modeler helping out with some smaller sections of the ship I didn't care to scratch build. We worked great together to bring back the most accurate details possible in areas such as the dorsal torp launchers, aft torp launchers, the deflector dish, the warp nacelle greebles what were originated from a Darth Vader TIE Fighter hatch. The Main Shuttle bay Observation dome is also 3D printed along with the Impulse crystal. You will see a LOT of scratch built sections cut and lathed by hand as well.

Here is the masters in their current state. Hope you like my progress so far.

























I'm glad you're accurizing the LM kit. I bought that monster back in the day, looked at the parts, and realized it was a hot mess. I ended up selling it.
 

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I have a copy of the modified LM Excelsior. I think it was redone by The Collective (?). I am thinking of just making minor corrections to it and make it an Excelsior Class variant. When yours is complete and is, perhaps, available to buy, then I will make an accurate scale version of this fine ship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Have not worked on this since before the holidays. Hobby Room is getting a face lift before I can start into building again.

I found a vacuum form table with heat box big enough to do pulls on any of my hull masters. I need to mound all my hulls on 3/8" to 1/2" MDF bucks to get them elevated off the table to ensure clean results without wrinkles in the pulls. The table should be here in March.

Tracy
 

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WONDERFUL!!!!! I am soooo looking forward to this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Pulled some of the Excelsior off the shelf to figure out something that has been bothering me for quite a while. The Primary Hull's superstructure just didn't seem quite right to me, but not enough to look closer at it until late last night. This is a big hunk of resin from the Lunar Models kit that has already been heavily modified.

I scaled a Studio Model image up to my scale and started really looking at what the problem is and traced it out on printer paper...

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Everything seemed right. Length, width, crystal location, then I laid the master down on the tracing. The Chines were too short! They didn't come forward enough...

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Easy fix to something that's been bugging me about "what's missing" for a few years now. I'll male a template off the tracing to make sheet styrene plates to glue to the upper surface, then fill in below to where the saucer's surface will be with Apoxie Sculpt.

Pics for this fix to come!

Tracy
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here you can see that I have chiseled and ground specific details 1/4" more forward to meet the superstructure's profile.

The chines are now feathered in and the bow of the superstructure is more refined.

This is a master that will also be vacuum form in clear for lighting.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Progress on the Superstructur Master.

Here, a clay plug is fasioned off the shape of the Impulse Crystal insert.
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Apoxie Sculpt added to the Leading Edges of the Impulse Crystal recess.

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The clay plug is pressed into place.



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