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Discussion Starter #1
i have the new 1 peice car and it is real loose off the corner.i can add more weight to the lr but that only makes the car push.the car is good getting in but real loose off.the track is 355foot runline asphalt with good overall traction.heres my current set up
lf spring red wolfe
rf spring green wolfe
35wt oil in all 3 shocks
ass black spring on center shock
red side springs
.063 plate
bottom hole on center shock mount
the locaa tire of choice is lf purple rf red lr purple rr purple i have tried a pink on the left rear but the car will still get loose off.any suggestions?thanks
 

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I have been fighting a loose asphalt car all season.

I finally figured out what my problem was (see #3)

1) The easiest solution would be Maybe try a double pink on the RR

2) Check to see if your pod in the center is not collapsing or has negative droop/rake. To check put your car on flat surface with a motor and batt in it. Press down the center shock, look at the chassis, does the chassis spring back up or it is still collapsed with negative droop/rake.
35 wt in the center with an associated black spring is super soft. I wouldn't go anything lower than 60wt and #2 piston with an assoc black spring.
Even with a #3 piston I would not go down to 35 wt in the center.

3) Are you running the Silva Teflon side shocks by any chance?
I was running them with 35 wt and was loose, I tried everything to get hookup, here my problem was the side shocks. I went back to the Associated shocks with 30wt and was dialed. If you are running the Silva's then try 20 wt. You might want to go down to some golds or blue springs as well if the turns are not that tight.
I know at Willow Mill's asphalt track the turns are pretty tight and we ran red springs.
Our track at Classic Hobbies has slightly more sweeping turns and we run usually a combo of blue and silver springs on the sides, or 2 blues.
 

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I run Hyperdrive but if you tell me more about the track I will try to help. How much banking does it have? Also are there any bumps exiting the corner? It sounds like you don't have enough dampening in the center shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i still have the associtaed side shocks,the rear pod is tilted to the back of the car slightly at race weight.

the track has 1 bump going into turn three but you can stay under it most of the time.
i did have 60 wt oil in the center,so i thought lightening the oil would help.i do run the batteries all the way out and back.if the weather holds out im going to try them in and maybe forward.thanks for your help
 

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What is your rear track width? You might try spacing the LR out that would help with the loose off problem. Just my 2 cents
 

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I would think by running your center shock that low as well as such a soft spring and oil.is alot of problem.I would try raising it and a stiffer spring and oil and try. Red side springs may be a tad to stiff.My .02 worth
 

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Try changing the t-plate to a steel soft or med. I had the same problem with the stock fiberglass t-plate. It seems that when you come off the corner that the fiberglass allows the car to laydown on the left side to long and loosens the car up off. The steel springs back quicker so the car is not laying down...
 

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xpss said:
the rear track is 7 3/4!ill try stiffing the center!
That could be your problem. try going up to 7 7/8"
I have even gone as far as 8".

Mobile Mike has a good point too. I was loose and I went from a Green to a Purple On my Left Front and it made the car hookup more.
Sometimes when you are sprung too light up front the car rolls over and pulls the rear up.
 

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I like to set my rear track at 200mm and just change springs and LF roll center to fix loose off... I try to keep the rear track width the same..

Chech to castor and camber as well.. If any of these are not set properly, suck as too much LF camber, it will have tons of steering off...

If changing the LF spring from red to green doesnt work, a purple LF may work also..


Make sure the LF roll center is in the middle position on the block...
 
J

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davepull said:
you need to change the hooraw conected to the dodad that pushes the thing a ma jig!!!!!!
LOL Dave......for awhile I thought that was another language.....LMAO !!!!!!

But then again, this hobby of our's require a totally different language altoghether. :p :freak: :wave:
 

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Maybe try moving batteries forward, you did say you have them al the way back. In our experience this gives the max amount of weight transfer to the RF. You might also try moving them in a bit (.250).
 

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With the battery all the way back you will get a pendulum effect with too much rear weight.... That may explain why it happens at the end of your corner rotation.
 

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I would run two green front springs and i would put a med spring steel t plate on.

Brandon Snyder
sponsored By:
Ripmotorsports
 

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Tires Black RF Grey LF White LR and Grey RR all Jaco size around 2.25
Springs in the front are purple LF and green RF
castor is -4 on both sides
Run .100 under the front Right side and .130 under the left sdie
Camber is _1 RF and +1 LF

Center shock [KSG ] 4 hole from bottom and 60tw oil in a HPI shock Silver Associated Spring Use the number 2 piston .

Rear end shocks 3 hole from top with 2 gold Wolfe side springs 35 wt oil

Ride Height is number 3 [the centered] ones
T-plate is medium stiff with 3 screws in it .

Bolink Dodge Thunder wing mount as low as possible..... Thi sit 4eh setup you were looking for [MArshalls] Good Luck and if you need more info ,you can email me and I will return ASAP >.

ROCKET
 

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Thanks Rocket I will try this and let you Know are you coming down for the cabinfever? If you do i look foward to racing against you is pete D coming? Hey good luck to you guys at the Birds. :thumbsup:

Brandon Snyder
Sponsored BY:
Ripmotorsports
PowerPushBattries
 
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