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I am not sure if there are plans for a optional 6-cell tray for now. There isn't much demand and they are running wide open just to get the kits out the door. I am not sure but I would guess 6-cell trays from other cars(hyperdrive,racetech,assoc) might fit right on or could be modified to work.

Thanks

Danny B.
Team KSG
 

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Set-upsss

Sorry guys I have been out of town for a week, till last night. I will send out my Set-up for everyone that has asked really soon. And probably post it here.


Thanks
Danny B.
 

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I think you will like the car a lot. Everyone I have talked to has had
no complaints. The car runs really well right out of the box. The only thing we are doing that isn't standard is we are running off-set pod, the kit comes with hubs for running centered pod. We are running the long hub on the RR and 1/2 on the LR. They have the hubs available but I don't know how many extras they are producing right now. Talk to Dale at AAA Model, he should have them.

This is the set-up I have been running, I tq'ed and won(mod) the
snowbirds warm-up race in Ohio, broke the track record(19t) in Milwaukee and broke the track record(19t) at both my home tracks all with this set-up.

Short wheelbase, PF HD monte carlo with the big Thunder wing. Mount the body back as for as you can, Mine is mounted so the corners of the bumper just touch the body. Off-set pod. The rear track width is 7.88". Both rear tires .125" outside of the Rf and Lf respectively. Better tray .600 gap between back of the tray and the front of the bottom plate.

Green Standard front springs. LF: 0 castor, +1 camber, upper a-arm in
bottom hole. RF: 4 castor, -2.5 camber, upper arm in bottom hole. Center shock: One hole forward, 5th hole down. 50 wt oil, Cut down Red
truck spring, .063 solid bias t-plate, .020 shim under front ball. For a bumpy track, you may have to go to a softer center spring.

Side shocks: LR 30wt oil blue spring, RR 30wt oil Gold spring. Bottom
mounting hole.

Run 11-11.5 oz on the LR for weight.

Tires: Jaco LF Grey RF Black
LR white RR Grey
Start with even stagger in the front and .020 reverse in the rear.
Also, if you need more rear traction run pinks on both sides in the rear, then you may need to go to a pink LF if you have too much traction. I have been running pinks because that is how we have been running in Modified, but we ave found that it works awesome in 19t too. The Pink LF is usually too much for a weekly show, cause you just don't get that high of bite in the carpet. So a BlK RF, Grey LF and Pink rears is what I have been running at weekly shows. Then work with the tire stagger to get it dialed in.

If you have anymore questions don't be afraid to ask here or email me.

Danny Bartholomew

KSG Motorsports
Putnam Pro-Pulsion
Jaco Racing Tires
SMC Batteries
Zubak Speed Products
Team 1 Racing
 

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Hi Mike,

I am using wolfe long kingpins, with two thick black spacers and 3 .020 shims all on top of the upper a-arm and it is the same on both sides.

Both upper a-arms are in the bottom holes in the castor blocks on both sides.

Later

Danny B.
 

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FreqEtag, My flat track carpet set-up is posted on the 2nd or 3rd page of this thread I think. We have run that basic set-up everywhere, it works well.

X-13 was always a good car, But the newer cars today seem to adapt to the speed we are going these days. KSG is a pretty sweet ride and I think the results speak for themselves.

Danny B.
Team KSG
 

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Sorry guys, I really wanted to get back to Chili this year(haven't been since the 99 regional) but the warm up for the nats is that weekend also and that has to take priority. Like I said, never enough race weekends :(
 

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FreqEtag,

I run pretty much a stock front end with the exception of the alum castor blocks(but I still run both sides all the way down, like the stock postition) and the wolfe front kingpins.

you want the tie-rods to have a slight forward angle maybe like 8-10 degrees. The more angle the tie-rods have the more ackerman the front end will have, meaning the LF will turn more than the RF.

Also, Region 8 guys, we are planning a paved regional at Storm Steel in Iowa this summer. As soon as I have official approval I will start pushing it. Track info is at www.iroaronline.org
 

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300M, My basic point with that is not to only adjust one shock all the time. It is a lot easier to get the weights you desire if you use both shocks. With these new generation of cars, where all the weight is on the left side the way you have to set the shocks to get the right weight is a little different.

The KSG car in particular likes LR weight, it is hard to get it over there with the weight distribution the way it is. So we end up with the right side shock turned in quite a bit more than the Left side shock. So don't be afraid of a lot of threads showing on the Right shock and not so many, if any on the left shock. As long as the car is fast who cares how much LR weight??
 

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R. Dornseif, what kind of track are you running on??? I'll be glad to help you out with set-up questions.

Also, anyone who has emailed me questions over the last few weeks probably should try again, I have been out of it with moving back to school and stuff, it should be settling down a bit now.
 

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R. Dornseif,

I cut the spring to rough 1 or 2 coils less than a std buggy springs. If you are going to run mod it would probably be best to run three pinks and a black RF, possibly a gray LF is the car is too loose.

Motor wise, I haven't personally run any of the 4-mag stuff in my own car yet, I would try the epic based stuff before the KR. Or try regular standups and std comm with the KR can. The epic stuff should be a little more suited to oval racing, From what I have seen runtime is really hard to make with the KR if you put rip in the motor it will dump. I have had real good luck running a full D5 set-up recently. and the Ti stuff is always reliable.
 

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hmmm...I have never broken a chassis. I run the graphite bumper and a full foam bumper(with the center cut out) The more foam you run the less problems you should have.

It is possible that they got a batch of bad graphite in. I know when I was running for hyperdrive we had a run of stuff that every piece made out of it split. It wasn't anything to do with hyperdrive but the graphite supplier.
 

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The biggest problem with using two scales is you will rarely find two with the same deck heights, causing the numbers to be off. It isn't a huge deal once you find out what weights work for you, use them all the time and they become your numbers. I have weight on several different peoples scales set-ups and i got anywhere from a 10-50gram difference in scales.

make sure you mark a left and right scale and don't flip them around or you'll be in a tweak nightmare. :thumbsup:
 

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Yes i run the toe correcter. It eliminates the bump steer you get in the LF when you raise the LF arm more level. On flat tracks i run the LF arm all the way down so you don't really need it but when i raise the arm for banked tracks it works great. and it looks cool and makes people ask questions :D
 

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k7king, When the tie-rods are not in line with the upper a-arms, like when you raise the inner pivot on the LF arm, that creates a bunch of bump steer. Andy makes a aluminum piece that bolts on the LF steering block that lowers the outer tie-rod end, ie. eliminating the bump steer.
 

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Tom, I am a big fan of short wheelbase, the two local outdoor tracks by me(both caps) are fairly low banking. I still ran all the way short. I ran half way at BMS for the paved nats. I haven't had a chance to run any banked carpet on the car. I would say half way would be a good place to start for banked carpet. Measure off the front of the chassis to make sure both arms are in the same spot respectively.
 
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