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Discussion Starter #1
Which krylon paints are good for painting models and what do I need to do to use krylon safely on the models ? do I have to use any special primer ? I have always used model hobby spray paints, (no airbrush) But on my strict budget, I have to find less expensive paints. I model real space & some iwrin allen sci-fi and need some aluminum colors. The testors metallic silvers just don't cut it. does anyone have a good list of the krylon paints & any related primers i can use safely ?
 

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I have used a lot of Krylon on model rockets and for that purpose I like it very much but have not used their metallic paint. However I do not like their primer as it takes forever to fully cure and if you sand it prior to it being truly cured it gums the sandpaper up badly. I use Rustoleum primer now as I can usually sand it within 23 hours or less. I also found that the Rustoleum metallic paints give a very good metal like finish. So that is my best take on a metallic finish paint.
 

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I have used the krylon for plastic and they work great also used the krylon metallic Bright Silver and it looks really good never had any problems with it.
 

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Some Krylon paints do effect plastic. And most of the questions/problems I see online about paint eating plastic, softening other paint, not drying right, etc. come from using household paints on models. So be forwarned... Im also not sure how much money you really save if you ruin a model, versus buying paints made especially for kits. The Ace Hardware store next to me has most Krylons at $8 or $9 which is about the same price of two cans of Testors or Tamiya paint...

I have used Krylon "Fusion" Navy Blue with good results, although it goes on thick and takes a long time to totally dry. It also takes quite a few coats... it looks splotchy and dries with flat and glossy areas until you get a good layer and can lay down a nice "wet" coat. Some people have mentioned Fusion etched/crazed their kits.

Krylon's "hunting" camouflage colors work on plastic and dry dead flat. These seem pretty "hot" as I have had some crazing and crinkling from the Flat Black, Olive Drab, and Flat Dark Brown. So test those out!

Some of the metallics seem really sticky and gooey and never dry. I found some cool looking anodized gold spray that was awful... it was like dipping a model in candy apple glaze... never dried and was translucent and syrupy.

Krylon's Crystal Coat clear flat spray isnt a dead flat... Although I use it ok to seal paper flying models. On a plastic kit its glossy or semi glossy.
 

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I just bought a few cans of Krylon Metallic Matte Aluminum. I like the color and it has a slight texture to it . The only problem is that for some reason, each can I have used has a tendency to clog. For spacehip hulls, I still prefer Duplicolor. It is usually about $6.00 a can at most auto supply stores. It is available in several different metallic shades and is more durable than most spray paints I have tried. Silver always works better (for me at least) when I use flat white as a base coat. Here are some shots of my 2 current Polar Lights Jupiter 2s (in progress) using the duplicolor.

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone, thats what i forgot to ask, the duplicolor. I am looking for the correct aluminum color for my apollo service module and testors, tamiya & model master did not have ANY of that at my local hobbytown. All they had was the testors metallic silver. I have no experience with metalizers and would not know where to begin with them. I bought testors dark aircraft gray to see how that would look on my apollo service module but haven't tried it yet. If I use krylon or duplicolor, I want to make absolutely sure the model plastic is not harmed. I want to use the correct primer and not have to sand, sand, sand before i can paint or cover up tiny details with the wrong primer. beautiful Jupiter 2 geminibuildup !
 

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Thanks. Glad you like them . The color I used on the 2 in the photos is Silver T-178. I use several shades depending on what I have in stock. I have used Slate and Charcoal (its really aluminum) as well as the different "silver" varieties. Radient Silver is the one I stay away from. I think it is too bright . I drilled out the 3 scanner ports and rear port hole on the top hull and painted the plastic inserts a different shade (Sorry - I don't remember which one I used) If you use the Duplicolor, spray a few light coats to cover the hull and then you can do a couple heavier wet coats.

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com
 

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Duplicolor is good but its also a hot lacquer and will melt model plastics unless suitably primed.

What Tamiya shades did you look at? THey offer several very good metallic finishes in spray can form... TS Series Gloss Aluminum. Silver Leaf and Mica Silver, and the AS series Bare Metal Aluminum are all excellent. Testors has some nice plastic safe lacquers in their automotive series... I used a great AMC Silver on my Lost in Space robot (there is a thread here with it).
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks, hobbytown did not have any of those in stock, unbelievable ! I was in there for an hour & a half looking at 4 full paint racks with testors, MM, & tamiya and they only had 2 cans of testors metallic silver which i didn't want. I chose tstors dark aircraft gray because of HOW it looked on the sample chip but it is just not right for the apollo service module. the next nearest hobbyshop is an 85 mile round trip.. what does bare metal aluminum look like ? I want a flat or semi flat. here are 2 examples of what i am looking for. the first 2 metallic service modules, what color do those look like ? The 3rd picture of the lunar module looks like the dark aircraft gray i bought and the center area between the windows looks like metallic silver, does anyone know for sure what all of these colors are ? These are not my models just pictures i found on the web for color reference.
 

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... Im also not sure how much money you really save if you ruin a model, versus buying paints made especially for kits...
dj has a point, that you can ruin any model (i.e., affect the plastic) with almost any paint. It's almost always best to build up the color with several light coats, rather than 1 or 2 heavy applications. Light coats keep the paint's solvent from attacking the plastic.

However, I have found that Krylon's paints can be had much cheaper than hobby brands. If that Ace Hardware store is really selling Krylon for eight or nine bucks a can, deej, then you need to give 'em the heave-ho. You can get Krylon paints much cheaper at Home Depot, Lowe's or Wal-Mart; they frequently go on sale for less than $3.00 a can at the Michaels stores hereabouts.

If you must have a specific WWII camo color, then yes, a hobby brand would be preferable. But to me, flat black is flat black and Krylon will sell me 12 ounces of it for about what Testors charges for their little cans. I like to use Krylon Sandable Primer to:
  1. make any flaws easier to spot before the color coats are applied
  2. provide a uniform surface over plastic, putty, and any other materials, so the top coats won't look different over the various materials, and,
  3. since primer is formulated specifically to cling to most surfaces, it also provides a better surface to which the color coats can stick.
dj also called it on Krylon's Clear Flat - it isn't. It's good if you want a satin finish, but I still like Testors Dullcote the best. If only Testors would sell that in 12 ounce cans!
 

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I use duplicolor primers and paints for everything, except military colors. I like the way duplicolor flows out of the can better than Krylon. And they dry fast.
Russell
 

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I just bought a few cans of Krylon Metallic Matte Aluminum. I like the color and it has a slight texture to it . The only problem is that for some reason, each can I have used has a tendency to clog. For spacehip hulls, I still prefer Duplicolor. It is usually about $6.00 a can at most auto supply stores. It is available in several different metallic shades and is more durable than most spray paints I have tried. Silver always works better (for me at least) when I use flat white as a base coat. Here are some shots of my 2 current Polar Lights Jupiter 2s (in progress) using the duplicolor.

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com
an old secret i learned about spray cans as a kid:
after use, hold can upsidedown and spray a few shots until paint stopc coming out, the air blast will clear the tip


a side note to the other post, i realize the model paints can be expensive, but the pigments are ground much finer than the industrial brands, if your working on small scales, or have a lot of details, the industrial brands can cover up many details. you will also find a major difference in drying time between the model paints and the industrials, as model paints will dry much quicker.
 

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an old secret i learned about spray cans as a kid:
after use, hold can upsidedown and spray a few shots until paint stopc coming out, the air blast will clear the tip


I learned the same trick ---- and it works. Unfortunately, not until after the can starts to spit out the paint. To eliminate the problem, I decanted the paint into a separate bottle and airbrush it. Thats the long way around, but it eliminates the problem.

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com
 

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krylon ultra flat black is my default choice for flat black paint basecoating.

ive worked with tons of different paints for a number of varied uses over the years, and, with the exception of the fusion line, krylon is one of the best manufactured brands, based on the quality of the polymer base. thats why its the choice of patternmakers for sealing clay models for mold making.
 

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thanks, i wish the model paint cans were bigger for the price they charge.
I throw out so many big Krylon size cans because the gas leaks out or there isnt enough gas to use all of the paint in the can over a long period of time. So I don't save money if I throw out a can I can't finish. Sometimes I do use Krylon paints for odd colors... but how many things to I need to paint with "Primrose Pink" etc.

Yeah Ace here is quite high, but if the average person going in there to buy a can of paint doesn't know to shop around... he will spend $7 - $9 bucks a can.

I would avoid the Wal Mart Color World (I think thats the name) paints... They are something like $1.49 but never dry and will crinkle up plastic.

Tamiya's bare metal aluminum is a smooth, brightly polished shade. If you want any of the metallics to be dull/flat just spray them with a clear flat sealer. Or if you have an airbrush, just buy Alclad Dull Aluminum or White Aluminum, which will give you the best finish anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just bought tamiya bare metal silver and it seems to be perfect from my test spray. Tamiya paint caps all look the same in the silver & aluminum paints, & the hobbyshops don't have paint chips for tamiya like they do other paints.
 

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I would avoid the Wal Mart Color World (I think thats the name) paints... They are something like $1.49 but never dry and will crinkle up plastic.
Actually, Wal-Mart's house brand (Color-Place) grey primer, flat white, gloss white, and flat black are some of the best I've ever used. The primer especially, as it goes on quick, covers well, dries fast, dries smooth, and does not obscure detail. At $1.95, you can't beat it. But, to each their own.

I used the flat white as the base color on my FM Y-wing, and it left the panel lines and greeblies very well defined:



Try it on a test piece. If you don't like it, try something else.

For any rattlecan paint, though, make sure you shake it well. I actually shake it for the whole 2 minutes that the label recommends. Plus, I warm the can up first by submerging it in very warm water until the can feels warm to the touch (not hot, warm). Warm it, shake it, periodically turn it upside down to clear the nozlle (Make sure you point it AWAY from the model while doing this!)
 

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I used a Color Place dark red on a Revell USS Burleigh and it crinkled up the hull...

The only time I really use hardware type paints is for some primers or odd colors. I usually use an airbrush or Tamiya sprays.

Tamiya doesn't have paint chips for their colors... The cap colors for most shades are pretty close. With the metallics its hard to duplicate the shade in plastic. You kinda have to buy the color and try it out... But Tamiya sprays are excellent quality.
 
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