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Discussion Starter #1
i,m reading that the wizzard brushes are the best for t-jets(horse power gains and such) but what is throwing me of is 3 different types. lets see there is e81 / e81 a/ e81b / and so on.i figuired i,d get the real lowdown here.also went back 18 pages nothin there.i dont want to beat an old subject. so any takers on this subject?also let me be long winded for a sec i tried the bill hall method of shoe bending last nite WOW!! try that for some power gains.:wave:
 

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The different part numbers are the same brush, but they are different quantity's the E81 is one pair, the E81A is for 10 pair, and E81B is for 100 pair.
 

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Note:

Wizzard E81 brushes have a top and bottom. Sometimes you can't see it
It's because the brushes are broached (stamped) to the diameter and not cut to length.
How you can tell is gently rub a new brush on a sheet of paper.
One side will have a sharp edge that catches on the grain of the paper.
The sharp edge side will go toward the spring and the smooth edge side toward the commutator.

__________________

 

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Discussion Starter #4
now dats what i,m talkin bout. i knew i,d get some clairity on this topic! thanx for straitining that out for me .
 

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SuperFist is right, but it should be added that they will perform much better if you smooth (flatten) the faces first, especially the comm side. That can be applied to any brand tjet brush.

:thumbsup:
 

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Brush comparison

My apologies for this being difficult to read. I cannot seem to get the test results to format properly.

SYNOPSIS: A non-scientific comparison test of the Stock, HOWORLD, J.B. Thunderbrushes, and Wizzard High Performance motor brushes for the Thunderjet HO-scale slot car as it relates to performance, using a relative measure of revolutions per minute (RPM) at the rear tires.

Two new chassis were used for the testing.
- Chassis #1 was a “F” chassis, “H” top plate, Black/Black magnets, and a gold wire arm.
- Chassis #2 was an “A” chassis, “G” top plate, White/Green magnets, and a gold wire arm.

Test procedure:
Both chassis were lightly oiled before each test.
The order of testing was randomly chosen.
Each pair of brushes was gently rubbed on a piece of 24lb weight notebook paper, to smooth the brush surface and edges.
For break-in, each pair of the various motor brushes were run in the chassis at 6 volts for 3 minutes, with the idler gear removed. Following this, the idler gear was re-installed and the chassis was run at 18 volts for 3 minutes. The motor brush/chassis was then tested at 18.0 volts. Power was applied directly to the pick-up shoes via small alligator clips. The armature commutator was cleaned between each test, using a rubber-type eraser followed by soft fiber bristle brush.
Each chassis/motor brush combination was tested on a homemade dynamometer, which provided a relative measure of the revolutions per minute (RPM) at the rear tire(s).
Following testing in the two different stock chassis, the motor brush tension was adjusted to yield the highest tested RPM. Thus, two tests were performed on each chassis/motor brush combination.

Additionally, two pair of each of the various motor brushes were measured for height. The results were averaged.
Stock motor brushes - .062 inches in height
HOWORLD motor brushes - .084 inches in height
JB Thunderbrushes - .068 inches in height
Wizzard motor brushes - .071 inches in height


TEST results:
The higher the number the higher the RPM of the rear wheels

BRUSH type Chassis #1 Chassis #2
STOCK
Stock tension 605 545
Maximized tension 735 685

HOWORLD
Stock tension 440/485* 540
Maximized tension 625/655* 605

JB Thunderbrush
Stock tension 680 610
Maximized tension 775 700

Wizzard
Stock tension 690 615
Maximized tension 790 695

* Due to the test numbers being significantly lower than the other tested brushes, the idler gear was removed and the chassis re-run on the 6 volt power supply for 15 additional minutes. This was done to further break-in/seat the brushes. The second number is the result of the additional time.

OBSERVATIONS:
The HOWORLD, JB Thunderbrushes, and Wizzard brushes deposited much less on the armature commutator, whereas the Stock brushes required more cleaning of the commutator surface.

CONCLUSION:
Due to the unscientific methodology and limited testing, no conclusions are being made.
 

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Walt - although you don't risk a conclusion, I enjoyed your comparison. I haven't purchased HO World or Wizzards, but have certainly seen a lift in JB's over stock.

Thanks for running the test.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
walter has put in some time on this subject ,and i,ve read it 3 times now i think im seeing any brush that is aftermarket should and will perform better than stock and its a matter of choice.i did buy some wizzard brushes that should be in the mail. i guess i should get some ho world brushes too. i did read on the how site a review about their brushes and price is a factor too.i,ve been playing with these lil cars for 3 winters now and have learned so much from the guys here on ht.just when i think i know something i realize i dont know jack!i,m heading back to the fray tuning thread and read and comprehend whats there again. thanx for adding your knowledge to this thread its appriciated and i check back 2 times a day to get some feedback. now i,m gonna do some testing of my own and see what i come up with.if i see something earthshaking i,ll report back.
 

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The silver compound brushes (at least those from Alan Galinko) are far and above the best performing brushes. They exceed the Wizzard and JB Thunderbrushes in every car that I have tested them in. However, most Clubs do not allow them, except for drag racing.
The problem with silver compound brushes is that they do wear very quickly and leave residue on the comm plate of the armature. This residue can fill the gaps between the comm plates and shorten the life of the armature. So, if you do run silver compound brushes, watch for brush wear and clean the comm plates (especially the gaps) on a regular schedule.
 

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walter has put in some time on this subject ,and i,ve read it 3 times now i think im seeing any brush that is aftermarket should and will perform better than stock and its a matter of choice.i did buy some wizzard brushes that should be in the mail. i guess i should get some ho world brushes too. i did read on the how site a review about their brushes and price is a factor too.i,ve been playing with these lil cars for 3 winters now and have learned so much from the guys here on ht.just when i think i know something i realize i dont know jack!i,m heading back to the fray tuning thread and read and comprehend whats there again. thanx for adding your knowledge to this thread its appriciated and i check back 2 times a day to get some feedback. now i,m gonna do some testing of my own and see what i come up with.if i see something earthshaking i,ll report back.

So between Wizzard and Thunderbrushes, they seem to be fairly even performers with the Wiz brushes holding maybe a slight edge, and both provide a performance boost over stock.

Is this pretty much a true statement?

joegri, did you like your WIZ brushes?

Dan
 

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Anybody else...

.... think the Wizzard brushes take a little longer to seat?

.... have a better service life?

.... I agree they produce way less crud!
 

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Galinko is the best hands down for those willing to care for the arms as the performance is superior in every way. That said most of us prefer less maintenance so give some wizzards a good rub and a TREK-X and they do just fine. Stock brushes have just too much trash material blended into the mash causing loss of conduction and are too thin causing loss of tension range.

Bear :wave:
 

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Lenny,
You are correct. The Wizzard and JB brushes out-performed both the HOWORLD and Stock brushes.
The Wizzard brushes were slightly better than the JB brushes.
 

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Lenny,
You are correct. The Wizzard and JB brushes out-performed both the HOWORLD and Stock brushes.
The Wizzard brushes were slightly better than the JB brushes.
Walt,
Thanks for the info. The reason I dug up this old thread and am asking is that I'm considering using one or both as 'original equipment' brushes for the Dash T-Jet chassis.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
lenny i,m thinkin that wizard brushes are fine but if were to come down to cost go with the lesser and me as a buyer can change them out at anytime. what ever you deciede it,s not gonna stop the many of us that are eagerly awaiting the new chassis!i can only speak for me but i,ve been holding off from buying anything till the new girl shows up.
 

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Walt,
Thanks for the info. The reason I dug up this old thread and am asking is that I'm considering using one or both as 'original equipment' brushes for the Dash T-Jet chassis.

Dan
w00t! i noticed your post and was hoping it was something like that. can't wait to see the new product...

--rick
 

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Density, overall composition. While neither are 100% (none are) the variances are far greater with Wizzard brushes. While both have one concave face, I've literally had to take many a Wizzard brush down to stock Aurora height just to get 'em flat. And pitting....look at a few of each under a good 10x or better loupe, then try to smooth 'em out and inspect them again. It seems that on a Wiz brush, as you get rid of one layer of pits, a new layer, just as bad, is exposed. This looser density can also be noticable on the edges, sometimes to the naked eye.

To take it to the track, I've built a lot of cars for a lot of guys, and I've never had to "try another" JB brush, where with Wizzards I'd estimate 25% of the time I'd have a bad "new" brush. In my book, the only attribute that makes a Wizzard brush a perfomer of any kind is it's height, at stock height they are complete dogs.
 
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