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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's the Deuce-ster. The wheel houses are filled for a leave it as a wider highboy style or cut them out for the traditional narrow look.

Pic 1: Caught in the claws of Mr. Roboto you'll see that that all the filler panels are installed on the Aurora shell. Unlike the previous yellow coupe this one is all Ford for the purists. Old yeller had a few Chevy parts. :rolleyes: True confessions of a hacker. :p

The side hoods are Ford J rear roof split in half. The lower hood extensions are shortened Ford J rockers. The rear wheel house fills are a thinned and flattened Ford J tail panel cut in half. The rear wheel houses may get a concave relief like the original pups looked when the rear fenders were removed. Not sure yet, but I've gotta plan for the wheel hubs so they dont get too geeked out.

Although I left the rear exhaust mounting hole on the coupe, it was filled on the roadster as I doubt it will be used.

Rather than pie cut and fill the goofy pseudo scoop ahead of the HR doors, they were cut out and filled with doors from a GT-40. This area proved problematic in the coupe and had to change.

Pic 2: After some cure time, Ole Buck gets shoved in for conformity. During the large skimming process, the repeated application of volatiles can make all the puzzle pieces wander around. A lesson learned and heeded from the coupe.

Pic 3: Yesterday evening I cooked up a batch of red in preparation. Here's the first fatty skim, one side at a time so it cures flat. Another lesson learned. No hangers or sags allowed! I really hate sanding; let alone my own stupid mistakes. The other side will be skimmed tomorrow.

Joez! What about the windshield? Leave it smooth with the groove delete; or A regulation frame with header bow, sans roof. Inquiring minds need to know.
You gotta pour it! So call the ball.

Bill
 

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It is going to be a real beauty, Bill!

As I mentioned in chat....

A seperate windscreen would be the best way to go. (prevent air bubbles in frame) Smooth or grooved cowl would be up to you, but I think a groove would make assembly easier.

Your master for the windscreen does not need to actually be clear either. In my minds eye, I see the glass at a nasty rake with heavy posts on each end and without a frame on the top side, eh. The posts can be foiled or painted, builders choice!

Man, I can hardly wait to get my mitts on this body! :thumbsup:
 

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cool

That is one cool lookin rod..Love the lakester look of that baby.. :thumbsup:

Joe,
You and Bill know how to make others drool..lol
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #6
GB, TX, RR, Joez; So far so good. When this idea spawned from the yellow coupe project the ideas and afterthoughts nearly burst my pea brain.

There's about a "gabillion" possible variations for this lil' tub. Ultimately they all boil down to fully cut rear W-well, or a classic Hi-boy, filled well with the hides more out board.

The fronts are somewhat limited to the truck axle position. The short WB position seemed to upset the the lines of the side fill for my liking. The long WB didnt appeal to me either, yet. The pick up hanger and front axle rails require some minor tweakage/trimming no matter which position is used due to the narrow schnoz and side fills on this model. The truck hole affords the best options thus far; proper rake, a normal profile front tire, and p/u shoe clearance.

Ordinarily all inner puzzle piece seams would be filled and smoothed; but on this version the rear fills will retain the inner ghost line as a go/no go marker for the guys who want to chop out the rear fills back to Aurora's original spec if so desired.

The end game is to create a slick, simple deuce shell with the most styling options for; and most importantly "from" the guys who customize. Hell, cutting and chopping is where the fun is, it's the fitting, filling and sanding that kills all the fun on most projects. This wont be a direct bolt on due to the p/u mods, side fills and chassis shaving required to cram this thing onto the chassis. I've been careful to use my chassis buck regularly and have been able to eek out a little more internal clearance since the coupe.

For every one following along, I thank you. It's important to speak up. Don't patronize the process, hit me hard upside the head with your two cents. After all it's really a HT baby.

Once the first run goes to Joez for casting, it's up to him as to how many and at what cost they will be produced. So y'all better be nice to my Bud Joe and lay off the mullet and cat jokes, unless ya want to see an "aggravation surcharge" attached to your shell. :tongue: Let's remember that Joe will be bearing the brunt of this project in casting materials.

I have a dozen so original HR shells slated for both coupe and roadster variations. The bulk of which will be front suspension mods as seen on my previous Woody, in both a standard and extended length drop axle/hair pin setups.

Note: I'm in desperate need of original Ford J carcasses, any condition, color, chunks -whatever. The poor J car has become my sacrificial lamb. May they R.I.Pieces.

Thanks, Bill
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #8
T-Jet Racer said:
make it a rumble seat! It looks great!
God thats funny you should mention the neckin' seat. It was one of the first ideas on the cutting board.

I spent a couple hundred hours in the rumble of a 28 Model "A" convertible on the local parade circuit my dad drove on. Sneakin' smokes, beers, tossin fireworks and haplessly tryin' to coerce young teen prettys into my lair. Fond memories. My dads good friend John was a pro restorer. John always made sure there was plenty of beer, and fireworks for us boys. One unusually cold morning I had my first nips of Kentucky sippin' whiskey from John's hip flask to cut the chill, he said.

It's on a long list of things to do to this body-style. Hopefully it will come on a future more 50's style hi-boy if I can pull off some nifty hinges like Boss' latest Hearse rear door. (see the thread "Coffin Daily")

I'm far from done with the "A" bods. You'll definitely see the flip seat. It was too big a part of my youth not to be done.

Thanks , Bill
 

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F.Y.I., the old rotary telephones were made from the same plastic as T-Jets. You should be able to find some at thrift stores, yard sales, etc. I've seen them in most of the T-Jet colors like red, tan, turqoise, olive, and of course, black.
 

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Bill Hall said:
God thats funny you should mention the neckin' seat. It was one of the first ideas on the cutting board.

I spent a couple hundred hours in the rumble of a 28 Model "A" convertible on the local parade circuit my dad drove on. Sneakin' smokes, beers, tossin fireworks and haplessly tryin' to coerce young teen prettys into my lair. Fond memories. My dads good friend John was a pro restorer. John always made sure there was plenty of beer, and fireworks for us boys. One unusually cold morning I had my first nips of Kentucky sippin' whiskey from John's hip flask to cut the chill, he said.

It's on a long list of things to do to this body-style. Hopefully it will come on a future more 50's style hi-boy if I can pull off some nifty hinges like Boss' latest Hearse rear door. (see the thread "Coffin Daily")

I'm far from done with the "A" bods. You'll definitely see the flip seat. It was too big a part of my youth not to be done.

Thanks , Bill
Holy crap, you are old, lol
 

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Hello Bill-

I’ve been called to duty to help my oldest do a pine-wood car for her Brownie troop.
She drew the design, and the maintenance man cut the shapes out.
These are for décor’ only- so my adding weight and micro-polishing the axles won’t be necessary :devil:.
It has to be finished by Mon. so, I’m on this for the time…


This rod is looking smart!
I’ve been musing over what I could contribute in a final model, but it may be a case of “too many cooks spoil the broth” thing-
I can still off’ up my point of view, though-

On the boot: Why not just scribe the lines in deep (like You & Joe suggested) for the wheel arches?
Then the option of a rumble-seat could be up to the receiver/finisher.

Another thing I thought would have been neat for the stock grille area is to create a raised area around the grill giving the grille a recessed look.

Since reading above, I have pondered the hinge thing and have a few (better) ideas as to how this might work.

If you guys want this feature, I’ll need some more time to realize the design, as it can’t just swing like the hearse door- It will need to pivot/slide for the seat to fall into position.

I might be able to fab’ a box to mount the hinges in and this would act as the “interior” of the seat area.
The mounts could be fabbed’ and slots in the sides of the box could act as the sliders-
The box would be mounted as an assembly.

As mentioned, I would near more time to think this out right, but if I can get the dims close, I could build the box and send it to you or Joe.

Update: After studying the pics and checking with my own stock, I think a working rumble seat will be a close call because of the clearance of the top of the rear plate. It still may be do-able, but it may be a bit shallow-
(Hey- just adding to the madness!) :tongue:

Oh, and Bill-
I’ll have a couple/three “J”s out to you in short order-
Any particular preference to colour? :)

Cheers..
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #12
sethndaddy said:
Holy crap, you are old, lol
I'll get you for that Ed. Joe can cast a special version with a nice goob in the hood for whippersnappers like you. Sonny, some vigorous sanding and filling should take the youthful starch outta' yer shorts. Better yet, I'll send one one to Seth with instructions that daddy's not allowed to play with this one :devil: :tongue:

PS: OT; Our local Home Depot is great! There always seems to be plenty of people on staff. Except on the Sat & Sun when the weekend warriors pack the place out.

Boss, Da book is en route with my return addy attached! I'll "moiduh" any J car. As for color, I'll be working in red, yellow, white, blue and tan. I'll be thankful for anything that comes my way no matter what color. If the spray able styrene topcoat comes to fruition, color matching will become a moot point. Wouldn't that be the cats a$$?! Still holding that one close to the vest.

Your dead on the nut with the rumble seat depth, as well as the cantilever monkey motion characteristic to the original design. Rather than hold up the show on the current version, I think it would be prudent to properly R&D the design on a back burner. When the time comes you can be the general contractor if your still game.

The whole grill dilemma has caused me some consternation. If you look at the nose on the original you'll find that there's quite a bit of meat there. In order to maintain the swept custom look I'm considering slicing the "in betweens" out and carefully grinding back the remaining teeth for a recessed/shrouded appearance. A person could also knock it's teeth out and install some sort of scale screen/mesh affair into the recess as well. Naturally removing material is easier than adding it. I'm gonna hit my dentist up for some micro bits to accomplish this. The front screw post may be in play, so it could be touch and go.

I do agree that a rework of the grill area would add something interesting. I'm awaiting some Darda grills as seen on GB's "hammered" A-body coupe in the members customs thread. Hopefully GB's got them on the way, and I can start pushing pieces around on the cutting board!

Now Boss, too many cooks may spoil the broth; if that's the case, then we'll just put on another pot. ;) As the original Hotrod coupe begat the roadster, that begat the modified coupe, that begat the HT roadster and so on; mutating subtly as the lineage progresses.

I love all the great ideas proffered and will attempt to replicate them on one version or another. Fortunately at this time I've still got the good sense to not attempt them all on one particular body. Plenty of shells, plenty of ideas; I'm a schemer, and will continue to plod carefully along through all of them.

Post up that pine car I'd love to see what you can do with a big saw! :p

Bill
 

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Great ideas keep popping! You guys are the cats Meow, eh! :)

Man, if anyone can work out an operating "date seat", it would be Boss, hey!
One of my recent casts was a HW repop w/ opening hood. The little pins on either side of the hood seemed to come out of the mold well enough. If there is room, it would be feasable, yeah?

Here is another idea....

Pipes! I had a thought of covered pipes along the rockers. To get the visual, lay an exhaust pipe (with turn-out tip) along the rocker and then box in the whole pipe but for the tip. Blend box in with the body work. What do you think? Kind of a runningboard-pipe cover deely. :thumbsup:
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #15
win43 said:
Bill,
ALL I can say is WOW. Wish I had some of that talent.
Jerry
PS. Email me. Maybe we can make arrangements to get together.
Hi Jerry, I just got lucky and figured out the liquid styrene trick. The rest is just body shop 101 shrunk down to 1:87. I never really planned or thought to much about it other than it being a necessary means to an end. I was just doing Aurora restos and it all sorta just happened.

I can show you everything you need to know about the process in about 1 hour. If you've got a dremel (I know you do!), an exacto knife, some small files, and don't mind sniffin' a little glue you'll be sectioning and blending in no time at all. If you can smear up a PBJ sandwich, you can do the styrene trick too.

All that said, thanks for the props! The days are finally getting longer out west and a trip to the banana belt (PT) is on our list of to do's. Robin loves to wander the shops down in old town. Go figure! We'll do it soon.

Bill
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #16
Joe wants a fatty.

joez870 said:
Great ideas keep popping! You guys are the cats Meow, eh! :)

Man, if anyone can work out an operating "date seat", it would be Boss, hey!
One of my recent casts was a HW repop w/ opening hood. The little pins on either side of the hood seemed to come out of the mold well enough. If there is room, it would be feasable, yeah?

Here is another idea....

Pipes! I had a thought of covered pipes along the rockers. To get the visual, lay an exhaust pipe (with turn-out tip) along the rocker and then box in the whole pipe but for the tip. Blend box in with the body work. What do you think? Kind of a runningboard-pipe cover deely. :thumbsup:
Yep Joe, It's your cat quick powers of observation that crack me up. Dangit Joe, Shhhhh! Boss wasn't supposed to know he was "Huck" white washin' Auntie's fence for me! Now I'm gonna have to cough up a piece of string, a dead mouse, and my best marble to get the rumble seat done. :p

Rocker boxes are a great styling idea. I've built/installed them in 1:1 ville back in the day. They were quite popular with the wide body 911 conversion crowd.

There's gobs of room due to the open wheel design. Pretty simple to execute other than the subtle kink/curve in the original rocker. The trick is keeping the outer edge equidistant from the side following a good contour. You'd also have to just slide by the lower door seam so as to leave it in tact and keep it straight from end to end when viewed from the side.

I can definitely see this combined with T-jet racer's rumble seat idea. Especially with the seat in the open position. It would certainly lessen the top heavy look of the open rumble I've envisioned/feared by having some meat below the axle centers along the rockers. I also think that it would create a desired stretching illusion between the front and rear wheels as well as an over all lowering effect with no butchery.

Even if a functioning rumble doesn't pan out, a fixed or suggested design is not out of the question. Who wouldn't want the seat open anyway? You'll just have to warn any HO rumble seat riders to keep their toes outta the gearplate! :freak:

Good shot Joe! Thanks.

BH



.
 

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So tell ol' Huck how much fun it would be to cut out the deck lid and create the pins & sockets in the two pieces, Bill, and trade him for his apple! ;)

Even if there is no room for the seat, it sure would be slick to pop that lil sucker open to oil up yer monkey-motion, yeah?! :thumbsup: Resin screw holes get a bit wobbly after a spell.
 

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You guys are bonkers!

**
Bill Hall said:
Yep Joe, It's your cat quick powers of observation that crack me up. Dangit Joe, Shhhhh! Boss wasn't supposed to know he was "Huck" white washin' Auntie's fence for me!

Ok- “Becky and Tom”:
Let’s get ready to rumble! (Seat)


I can definitely see this combined with T-jet racer's rumble seat idea. Especially with the seat in the open position. It would certainly lessen the top heavy look of the open rumble I've envisioned/feared by having some meat below the axle centers along the rockers. I also think that it would create a desired stretching illusion between the front and rear wheels as well as an over all lowering effect with no butchery.

I’ve removed the boot and fiddled a bit. Here’s what I’ve observed so far-

The inner rear fenders will have to be built up and strengthened, or one good hit will crack the rear fenders- with all the strength of the deck lid gone. Any rear screw post flex will also break this area-

A new rear screw hole will have to be determined and a new position to mount it will be required. The rear post comes right through the rear of the lid.

Even if a functioning rumble doesn't pan out, a fixed or suggested design is not out of the question. Who wouldn't want the seat open anyway? You'll just have to warn any HO rumble seat riders to keep their toes outta the gearplate! :freak:

Good shot Joe! Thanks.
BH .
So tell ol' Huck how much fun it would be to cut out the deck lid and create the pins & sockets in the two pieces, Bill, and trade him for his apple! ;)

Even if there is no room for the seat, it sure would be slick to pop that lil sucker open to oil up yer monkey-motion, yeah?! :thumbsup:

For it to operate like a 1/1, it will need the rear chass’ shaved to allow the lid to “drop down” into the opening or it will sit too high- if it just left to pivot.
The swing effect will cause it to catch the edge of the chass’- if you use this edge as a guide. It hasn’t enough room to allow for much drop during the operation, and once it clears the chass’, it has no where to go but into the gear plate.

My thinking is the deck is too long across the leading edge as well as the trailing edge -
**If the rear body panel leading to the trunk edge was lengthened, it could give the eye the impression the lid was longer but tucked inside when open.
When in the opened position it sits too high. This will alleviate that-


**If the rear valance is built up, the lid will sit closer to the gear plate giving it a better look—with not an overt amount of overhang from the raised lid.

Resin screw holes get a bit wobbly after a spell.
The interior could be accomplished by applying a thin layer of “rolled & pleat” to the inside of the lid (there’s room) and building a very shallow floor in the same manner.


**You want the auntie’s fence white-washed—get your “pickets” straight…:)


Back to the pine car!

Cheers..
 

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You owe Huck...er Boss an apple, Bill!



Never expected you to take a crack at it, Boss, but my guess is curiosity got the better of you, eh? It would have KILLED me! ;)

Since this is an all-around custom, why would it NEED a rear screw post?
I am guessing that the chassis will be wedged in there anyway, yeah?!

I like the looks by your pics, Boss. Thanks for taking the time away from your rugger and her derby car.

Yer da boss, man!...er...yer da man, Boss! (take yer pick! :wave: )

oh...and i was wondering....
If a whole bunch of pickets, nailed to stringers is called a "fence", is just a single board nailed up called a "fent"? :p
 
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