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I noticed a few days ago that someone is offering photo-etch parts for the J2.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
 

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I was looking at the pdf document for the photoetch interior and I was wondering is anyone going to try to do the uber detailing on page 1 & 2. Which makes the center flight control station spin and the computer tape drives.

http://www.paragrafix.biz/instructions/PGX121.pdf
I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:
 

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I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:
Motorization is great. It's the Easy Way for me.

I intend to motorize only the upper hull dome radar. To do so, I bought a cheap $5.00 battery operated wall clock found at a local discount store with a sweeping second-hand, not quartz movement. I gutted it for its motor. I also saved the clock arms it came with, later to be used to support the radar accessory. It turns an acceptable 1 RPM speed for a typical model radar and the motor is quiet. When I receive the TSDS lighting kit soon, my LEDs will be flush with the bottom plate of that radar. It'll twinkle as normal, just that the lamps will be flush. I may decide to let the lamps glow solid and be dazzled by the turning radar reflections just like the chrome crown of my B9.

I own a Master Replicas TOS Star Trek Enterprise and its Nacelle motors are awesome. Turbine blades spin in each ruby-red Nacelle with a firey interior. Due to the gearheads it's a bit noisy of a replica, though. But after this, I wouldn't dream of owning a Jupiter without motorization. And with a mirrored or chromed radar substituted or applied on the given Moebius part, the dome will be interesting, a marvel in of itself! The Nacelles have limited space width so I'm stuck with what they gave me. But most areas of this Jupiter have plenty of room. Because this clock motor housing measures 2" X 2", your tape reels may be a bit of a challenge though.
 

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The motors I'm using are only 0.787"dia and the body is only 0.560" thick so I can't wait to see how well they work. I just finshed doing the circuit board layout, so once I build the protype driver I'll know if they well work.
 

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The motors I'm using are only 0.787"dia and the body is only 0.560" thick so I can't wait to see how well they work. I just finshed doing the circuit board layout, so once I build the protype driver I'll know if they well work.
I think you should be OK. After I posted below, I realized that the astrogator spun pretty fast, anyway. Turning the tape reels might be a challenge. It's not that they just turned, but they paused too! The work going into this project, you guys are amazing!
 

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I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:
Where did you get the motors for it?
 

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ParaGrafix Hero replacement landing legs

Hi

I'm new to the group. I'm still waiting for my Moebius Jupiter 2 I ordered to arrive here in the UK. I was just wondering if someone could tell me the difference between the ParaGrafix replacement legs and the ones supplied with the kit. I'm considering buying them later but was curious on the differences.

Steve
 

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Motorization is great. It's the Easy Way for me.

I intend to motorize only the upper hull dome radar. To do so, I bought a cheap $5.00 battery operated wall clock found at a local discount store with a sweeping second-hand, not quartz movement. I gutted it for its motor. I also saved the clock arms it came with, later to be used to support the radar accessory. It turns an acceptable 1 RPM speed for a typical model radar and the motor is quiet. When I receive the TSDS lighting kit soon, my LEDs will be flush with the bottom plate of that radar. It'll twinkle as normal, just that the lamps will be flush. I may decide to let the lamps glow solid and be dazzled by the turning radar reflections just like the chrome crown of my B9..
That clock idea is great! I wasn't planning on motorizing the radar on mine, but I'm pretty sure I could manage that!
 

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That clock idea is great! I wasn't planning on motorizing the radar on mine, but I'm pretty sure I could manage that!
Thanks, Gareee

I think the speed would be just right. Quartz clocks are everywhere; not quartz. Be sure to buy one with a sweeping analog second-hand; continuous motion. It's easy, silent, long lasting.

I've never seen the upper hull bubble, particularly in space flight, in detail on the show, on this forum or anywhere else. I'm not a pilot. One thing for sure, being a radar positioned horizontally, it would have to turn. That is, if they really wanted to detect space objects all around as their consoles would suggest.
 

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As noted in the main announcement for the etch, I've finally gotten in the last component and will be making ordering live on my site tomorrow. You can still preorder, of course, but it will just add an extra layer of confusion and won't gain you any time :)
 

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I have just downloaded and reviewed the PDF file of instructions. They are very good. I will definitely order this set.

I have but one suggestion, however. In many of the steps, you begin with the term "scribe off". This term is non sequitur. It's the kind of word combination where the two words to not follow (i.e. "engrave off" or "pencil off"). Perhaps the word "scrape" could be used in place of "scribe". Or, better yet, replace both with "remove".

I sincerely hope that this does not insult you in any way. I certainly do not mean for it to do so. Quite the opposite. It is the only thing that detracts from an otherwise excellent guide. :)
 

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I've been thinking about the way I would attach my modifications to the Hero Legs w/out hosing up the gear. I bought the brass tubes and rods from the LHS's K&S Metals and Stopped by the local RC airplane shop to check price/availability of servos. Bought some threaded rod and threaded inserts from Dubro and I already have the NWSL gearbox and motor for the mechanical fusion core, and some "Structural Shapes in Metal" I-Beam for the sliding parts of the footpad doors. I'm trying to get as much of the model to work like the real Hero did on this version. I got some very thin shim stock brass for use as the bottom of the legs that cover the slit between the gear and hull. I'm gearing up(Did I just say that? Jeez!)to cut the gear well walls in aircraft grade plywood and the top inside fusion core so I can mount the motor and gearbox that rotates the lights in the core. I decided on a square tube to be soldered inside the top of the tube attached to the core lights to be used as a key for a drive shaft up to the spinning "V". It will have a ball bearing from an RC Car and a brass tube pressed through the BB for mounting the "V" but on the bottom side of the bearing will have a square rod that just fits into the square tube on the top of the fusion core.

This arrangement allows the core to be removed to mess with the insides. The hatches on the top of the hull will also be functional to get in to mess with the insides. You'll need to figure a way to cleanly attach both hull sections together after attaching the lifting wires to the hull somehow. I do not know if a decade or two of hanging on wires will deform the hull around the support holes, so perhaps attaching them to the gear well sides, and let that take the stress? I dunno.
 
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